How to Make a Mash Tun

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Fri May 19, 2006 10:39 pm

bigster - nice work! B)

I'm no manifold gunu ( :D ) but I believe the cuts should be made half way through the copper and leave the copper fittings uncut.

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sat May 20, 2006 6:17 am

That's a nice looking piece of work ;)

You seem to have to connection to the tap sorted but if you have any problems you might like to know that a 3/4" tap connector screws on to the back of the plastic tap. I bought a 3/4" tap connector that fits onto a 15mm pipe and then have an olive and nut on a short length of 15mm pipe connected into the centre T piece - works a treat :D

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sat May 20, 2006 6:36 am

Forgot to say that my 15mm filter is cut less than half way through but more than a quarter way through...

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Sat May 20, 2006 7:41 am

I used 22mm copper pipe & have cut slots about half way through on mine. Seems to work exceptionally well. The dead space wasn't a problem with me, as I seemed to get such a good mash extraction over my previous mash method, that I ended up with loads more wort than I even could use. Maybe I need to reduce the grain bill a bit now using the new tun...

One thinking on not cutting the slots very deep, especially if using 15mm pipe, would this possibly slow the run off flow rate down from the tun though. May be a problem if you are using a spinny sparger keeping the rotation speed low enough for the slow run off perhaps.

Having said that, I think I had a fairly fast run off with my 22mm pipe cut half way through & I didn't have the tap fully open. So it may not cause a problem. 15mm pipe users will have to let us know?

Also out of interest, I didn't experience any problems with a stuck run off.

BlightyBrewer

Post by BlightyBrewer » Sat May 20, 2006 7:54 am

Good job Bigster!

I cut my slots half way in 15mm pipe, and no problems so far. I also soldered the long side arms and the rest is push fit (I didn't want loads of pieces to assemble).

Bigster

Post by Bigster » Sat May 20, 2006 2:21 pm

Thanks for the replies...guys :)

I have followed advice and gone for a 1/3 way through cut in old money.

Squeezing the copper tees and corner connector bits means a very snug fit indeed without solder.

I have got most of the inside burrs off that looked like they could detach - the rest look like they wouldnt move if you paid them so not going to worry. Will give them all a boil in citric acid solution in kettle as prescribed by dr daab.

Final point - have not cut in the pipes at the tap end as I think I saw a picture of one on here that hadnt - does this help flow out?

Happy brewing :beer

Bigster

Post by Bigster » Sat May 20, 2006 3:32 pm

Ah could well have been. ;)

I shall finish it off now however having just done a dry/wet run it absolutely hammered out the tap leaving about a 1/4 pint left so may not be needed.

The proof will be in the next pudding I guess :)

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