How many kilowatts for a 50l boiler?

[jimp2003]

Hi Guys.

I recently got an electric boiler as part of a job lot from a member here who was giving up. It is a 50l HDPE container from HK Plastics and is fitted with tap a and two 1 kilowatt elements.

I just tried a test boil with only 20l of water and after over an hour it was barely at a simmer so I am thinking that an upgrade will be needed to enable a rolling boil of anywhere near full capacity.

Does anyone know what I am best replacing the elements with? Deller12 has some 3kw elements - would I need two of those for a boiler this size or maybe just one plus one of the existing 1kw elements? Or would one 3kw element be enough but fitting two would mean I have a back up in case one goes pop?

All help greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Jim

[sbond10]

You could fit a 3 kw to get to boil quicker but with 5kw being drawn at once I dunno if a standard house main would cope

[sbond10]

Also are you in or outside with a jacket on the boiler ?

[jimp2003]

Also are you in or outside with a jacket on the boiler ?

I carried out the test boil in the garage today in pretty warm conditions. This is where I brew and I would look to put an insulating jacket around the boiler to improve the performance in the winter.

[barneey]

Last time I had a 50ltr boiler, it was fitted with 2 x 2.5kw elements, switch both on at the start (different ring main circuits) once boil is achieved switch one off. Always handy to have the 2 for quickness + back up.

[orlando]

Last time I had a 50ltr boiler, it was fitted with 2 x 2.5kw elements, switch both on at the start (different ring main circuits) once boil is achieved switch one off. Always handy to have the 2 for quickness + back up.

I have the same arrangement but I would differ with Barneey on turning off the second element, I always keep both of mine going for the full boil. It makes sure you drive off DMS, gives you a spectacularly good hot break that leads to no problem with protein precipitation leading to greater clarity into the fermentor, full hop isomerisation so you get more bittering for your bang. Downside is boil off (just adjust liquour volumes) and extra leccy.

[jimp2003]

Thanks for the advice gents.

I think I will go for a couple of the 3kw elements and try both methods to see which works best.

Cheers!

[mrlard]

Last time I had a 50ltr boiler, it was fitted with 2 x 2.5kw elements, switch both on at the start (different ring main circuits) once boil is achieved switch one off. Always handy to have the 2 for quickness + back up.

What he said

[Deller12]

Hi Guys.

I recently got an electric boiler as part of a job lot from a member here who was giving up. It is a 50l HDPE container from HK Plastics and is fitted with tap a and two 1 kilowatt elements.

I just tried a test boil with only 20l of water and after over an hour it was barely at a simmer so I am thinking that an upgrade will be needed to enable a rolling boil of anywhere near full capacity.

Does anyone know what I am best replacing the elements with? Deller12 has some 3kw elements - would I need two of those for a boiler this size or maybe just one plus one of the existing 1kw elements? Or would one 3kw element be enough but fitting two would mean I have a back up in case one goes pop?

All help greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Jim

The ones I have for sale are only 2KW

[Waffty]

I have a 50l stock pot with two 2.7Kw backer elements. I use a Auber PID controller to get my strike water to the correct temp on one element. Then when I come to the boil I use the two elements off two separate ring mains. Once I have a strong rolling boil I use one element on full power and using the Auberins PID in manual model, I can reduce the power of the second element via a manual percentage setting, which I typically set at 70%.

My boiler is insulated with Armaflex and that bubble foil stuff but life is a lot easier with two powerful elements, as it doesn't take long to get my wort up to the boil plus having the PID on manual mode, allows me to fine tune my boil.

For reference my PID, with the manual mode is an Auber SYL-2362A2.

[robbarwell]

Insulation is your friend here. My 50 litre HLT will shift 45 litres of water from tap temp to 80 degrees in 30 mins, its insulated to death...you can put your hand on any part of the HLT when warming up and its no warmer than it is without the water in..

[Steve1262]

Insulation is your friend here. My 50 litre HLT will shift 45 litres of water from tap temp to 80 degrees in 30 mins, its insulated to death...you can put your hand on any part of the HLT when warming up and its no warmer than it is without the water in..

What have you used to insulate it and in particular what is next to the hot surface ?

[Brighteyebeer]

Hi
IMHO, more than 3 or 4 kw is OTT. I have a 60 litre stockpot boiler, into which I fitted 2 elements; 1x2kw and 1x3kw. I sparge at 1 litre per min, and find that, with both elements on, it's reaching the boil too fast - before I've finished sparging. With hindsight, I'd say a single 3kw is more than adequate, or, to keep the flexibility of 2 elements that other posters have recommended, 2x2kw.
Cheers, Chris

[jimp2003]

Cheers Chris. I have gone for 2 2kw elements which I will be fitting tomorrow and testing out.

[Brighteyebeer]

Cheers Chris. I have gone for 2 2kw elements which I will be fitting tomorrow and testing out.

Good luck with the upgrade. Remember to use separate sockets (not one double socket). FWIW, my flat's electrickery manages the 5kw load no prob, and the wiring ain't great! I still have a fuse box where you have to replace wires - remember those? Lol
Cheers, Chris