new hlt build - finally completed
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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new hlt build - finally completed
OK new hlt build from the start, apologies for the enormous post!
some 6mm and 8mm microbore, a 1/2" bsp backnut, 1/2" bsp plug and a dodgy homemade silicon washer
pipes cut, plug drilled with 8mm hole, 6mm pinched at tip, assembled, tip and other joints soldered... TADA!! a thermowell which fits perfectly in the hole left by taking out the burco tap. Element turned so as not to leave it directly under the thermowell tip.
Burco upside down, cover plate removed and two 21mm holes q'maxed, one in side skirt, one in boiler bottom
tank connector fitted using supplied washer on the outside, and another homemade silicon washer inside the boiler, 15mm tube attached and brought through side hole, tee fitted to take sight tube and tap attached. Outside of thermowell visible too.
Skirt masking taped, marked with size of temp controller, drilled, jigsawed, and finally filed to size. Allow enough space inside so the controller doesn't hit anything else. Thermowell socket clearly seen. 6mm pipe used at tip because thermoprobe supplied with controller was about 4.5mm diameter and with the tip pinched to seal it, the probe coulfd be pushed in and would catch at the end giving a good thermal contact.
2nd hole cut for mains switch, switch and controller fitted, old simmerstat removed. Double thickness of camping foam mat cut and fitted outlet pipe insulated, bits of foam wedged in to stop foam discs falling away from base when in use. BTW the curved "earth" thingy is actually a metal strip from a windscreen wiper blade insulated for safety and used as a spring to help keep the insulation in place.
Electrics:
1. L & N wires to switch,
2. N from switch to controller and also to N connector on element
3. L from switch to L on controller and L side of relay (marked load on controller)
4. Switchable feed from 2nd controller relay terminal to L terminal on burco element
5. Thermoprobe connected to controller and fed out through now unused simmerstat hole to thermowell
Still with me?
Burco upright, sight glass fitted, more insulation, thermoprobe wire visible going into thermowell, water in tank, powered up and heating on, yay it all works!.
Oh, nearly all works, electrics, controller and thermoprobe work perfectly, but due to venturi effect (thanks for the info chastuck) the sight glass empties the moment you open the tap. I wasn't able to take advantage of chastucks advice on this so;
2nd pair of holes q'maxed to fit another tank connector specifically for the tap
Finally reassembled again, separate tap connection, sight glass now on an elbow, problem fixed.
In use;
Controller set for a 2 degree 'slew' by default, switches off at set temp. with residual heat/convection it seems to rise about another 1.5 degrees, power is kept off until it drops to 2 degrees below set figure when it switches back on. If you set the controller to 101c it keeps a rolling boil going. I think you can alter the slew figure from 2 degrees if need be, it seems to suit me fine though.
Hope this is of some use to people!
some 6mm and 8mm microbore, a 1/2" bsp backnut, 1/2" bsp plug and a dodgy homemade silicon washer
pipes cut, plug drilled with 8mm hole, 6mm pinched at tip, assembled, tip and other joints soldered... TADA!! a thermowell which fits perfectly in the hole left by taking out the burco tap. Element turned so as not to leave it directly under the thermowell tip.
Burco upside down, cover plate removed and two 21mm holes q'maxed, one in side skirt, one in boiler bottom
tank connector fitted using supplied washer on the outside, and another homemade silicon washer inside the boiler, 15mm tube attached and brought through side hole, tee fitted to take sight tube and tap attached. Outside of thermowell visible too.
Skirt masking taped, marked with size of temp controller, drilled, jigsawed, and finally filed to size. Allow enough space inside so the controller doesn't hit anything else. Thermowell socket clearly seen. 6mm pipe used at tip because thermoprobe supplied with controller was about 4.5mm diameter and with the tip pinched to seal it, the probe coulfd be pushed in and would catch at the end giving a good thermal contact.
2nd hole cut for mains switch, switch and controller fitted, old simmerstat removed. Double thickness of camping foam mat cut and fitted outlet pipe insulated, bits of foam wedged in to stop foam discs falling away from base when in use. BTW the curved "earth" thingy is actually a metal strip from a windscreen wiper blade insulated for safety and used as a spring to help keep the insulation in place.
Electrics:
1. L & N wires to switch,
2. N from switch to controller and also to N connector on element
3. L from switch to L on controller and L side of relay (marked load on controller)
4. Switchable feed from 2nd controller relay terminal to L terminal on burco element
5. Thermoprobe connected to controller and fed out through now unused simmerstat hole to thermowell
Still with me?
Burco upright, sight glass fitted, more insulation, thermoprobe wire visible going into thermowell, water in tank, powered up and heating on, yay it all works!.
Oh, nearly all works, electrics, controller and thermoprobe work perfectly, but due to venturi effect (thanks for the info chastuck) the sight glass empties the moment you open the tap. I wasn't able to take advantage of chastucks advice on this so;
2nd pair of holes q'maxed to fit another tank connector specifically for the tap
Finally reassembled again, separate tap connection, sight glass now on an elbow, problem fixed.
In use;
Controller set for a 2 degree 'slew' by default, switches off at set temp. with residual heat/convection it seems to rise about another 1.5 degrees, power is kept off until it drops to 2 degrees below set figure when it switches back on. If you set the controller to 101c it keeps a rolling boil going. I think you can alter the slew figure from 2 degrees if need be, it seems to suit me fine though.
Hope this is of some use to people!
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- Telling imaginary friend stories
- Posts: 5229
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
V Well Done!! whats the volume?
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
- Posts: 509
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2012 12:34 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Max volume is 32l. Burco model is the F33L which is described as 27l but that allows for a few cm headspace at the top. I do 23l brews so generally mash/sparge total volume is 32-33l. A bit annoying!
However an initial 15l heated up does the mash then I can top up the hlt and heat the necessary amount of sparging water while mash is ongoing
However an initial 15l heated up does the mash then I can top up the hlt and heat the necessary amount of sparging water while mash is ongoing
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- Telling imaginary friend stories
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
All well in hand then one thing i noticed after leaving a hlt under electronic control, is the water at the probe was spot on the temp set, but above and below the water had settled into layers at different temps, SO a good stir before you start pouring is well worth it to dbl check, many go further and recirculate or add mechanical stirrers to overcome this, a quick stir is a much cheaper n easier solution tho..
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
My eyes must be broken, where's the relay located for the stc?
- thepatchworkdoll
- Piss Artist
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
+1 Nic
I cant see it either. Mabye the boiler is less than 1 KW.
Regards
Patch
I cant see it either. Mabye the boiler is less than 1 KW.
Regards
Patch
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Lovely post looks good is the stc1000 one of the new ones ?With a 60 amp relay fitted inside
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Nikster, thepatchworkdoll and steambrew - eyes not broken at all - thats not an STC1000, its an MH1230A - one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40-to-120-Min ... 2c6ebb3017
30A relay inside the controller and all for under a tenner. The boiler has a 3kw element, so not even coming close to the 30A limit. All-in-one controller made wiring very simple for me!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40-to-120-Min ... 2c6ebb3017
30A relay inside the controller and all for under a tenner. The boiler has a 3kw element, so not even coming close to the 30A limit. All-in-one controller made wiring very simple for me!
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- Tippler
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
How easy was it to wire the controller to control the on/off for the hlt?
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Ah cool, I might order one of those myself, I was a bit reluctant after seeing external relays and some needing heat sinking what with my element being under rather than inside the urn I was worried things may get a little heated.
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Ive just ordered one of those controllers after reading this, can see me ordering more if satisfactory.
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Ryan it was easy in reality, I was convinced I'd get it wrong but it worked 1st time. I kept the existing power lead and removed the simmerstat and all attached wiring, I fitted the new power switch and connected the power cable to it. Then for the live, neutral and earth to the element I reused the gray and earth wires originally fitted, an offcut of 13A 3 core cable supplied the additional short lengths of brown and blue i needed. The power controller has screw terminals, and I used 16A spade connectors from my local car spares shop for the other terminal connections.ryanshelton wrote:How easy was it to wire the controller to control the on/off for the hlt?
hopefully you can see most of that from the pictures above, I've done a very rough wiring diagram in MSpaint, excuse the poor quality but I think the connections are clear enough
Do double-check that the terminals haven't been changed around on the one you get, I don't suppose its likely, but better safe than sorry
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- Tippler
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
lord groan wrote:Ryan it was easy in reality, I was convinced I'd get it wrong but it worked 1st time. I kept the existing power lead and removed the simmerstat and all attached wiring, I fitted the new power switch and connected the power cable to it. Then for the live, neutral and earth to the element I reused the gray and earth wires originally fitted, an offcut of 13A 3 core cable supplied the additional short lengths of brown and blue i needed. The power controller has screw terminals, and I used 16A spade connectors from my local car spares shop for the other terminal connections.ryanshelton wrote:How easy was it to wire the controller to control the on/off for the hlt?
hopefully you can see most of that from the pictures above, I've done a very rough wiring diagram in MSpaint, excuse the poor quality but I think the connections are clear enough
Do double-check that the terminals haven't been changed around on the one you get, I don't suppose its likely, but better safe than sorry
Thanks for that, still not convinced me and my very little diy knowledge can do it.
Sorry for the dumb questions but:
What's the simmerstat?
What power switch did u use?
I keep looking at your photos but I guess I need to open my burco to actually see what the wiring etc looks like!
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2012 12:34 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Not dumb questions at all, if you've not done this kind of thing before its far better to ask than plough blindly on!
The simmerstat is the original rotary knob power control fitted to the burco - visible in the 4th picture with lots of wires coming off it.
Power switch was: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ip65-rated-dp ... -red-n32bq
Best photo for the wiring is probably the one with the red camping foam in it, sorry the cover is screwed on the controller it hides the connections numbered 1-6
The simmerstat is the original rotary knob power control fitted to the burco - visible in the 4th picture with lots of wires coming off it.
Power switch was: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ip65-rated-dp ... -red-n32bq
Best photo for the wiring is probably the one with the red camping foam in it, sorry the cover is screwed on the controller it hides the connections numbered 1-6
- jmc
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Re: new hlt build - finally completed
Nice neat solution and clear write up .
Same circuit could be used to provide heat to a fermenting cupboard (heat only).
Same circuit could be used to provide heat to a fermenting cupboard (heat only).