My mashing set up is an Electrim boiler with a large stainless steel bucket suspended in it to hold the grain.
The boiler acts as a water jacket , keeping the temperature about right for the bucket mash.
I am in the process of assembling the STC 1000 , relay and socket etc.
After looking at the modification on the boiler makers website, Peco Services, I see that they use a pocket for the sensor on the set up for their conversion kit.
This leads me to a couple of problems.
I doubt that the Electrim Kit uses the same electronics that I am assembling but the same principals should apply.
PROBLEM
At first I was thinking of hanging the STC 1000 probe sensor over the edge of the boiler immersed in the hot mash/sparge water.
After seeing that Electrim has a tube inset into the wall of the boiler for the dry probe to go in , I am now wondering if the STC 1000 probe is actually designed to be immersed.
The instruction sheet that came with the STC 1000 does not state if the probe is waterproof and suitable for immersion.
Does it need to go into a dry pocket , and can anyone suggest a suitable home made solution, if it does ?
Cheers all.
STC 1000 Sensor Dry Pocket .
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- Piss Artist
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Re: STC 1000 Sensor Dry Pocket .
To be honest, most people don't bother with a temperature controlled mash tun - just having good insulation will keep it near enough for the mash period.
The only exception is if you want to do stepped temperature mashes.
The only exception is if you want to do stepped temperature mashes.
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Re: STC 1000 Sensor Dry Pocket .
Hello Jim
I have got my STC 1000, relay etc , blinkers on and the bit between my teeth. I am definitely going for an accurate , temperature controlled mashing set up.
Something that I can initially tweak with hot and cold water to the correct temperature and then confidently walk away from, for an hour or so.
The thermostat originally supplied with the boiler ,whilst functional, is not the most accurately reliable.
My mash can be a couple of degrees out either way unless I keep probing, stirring and tweaking the existing boiler thermostat.
After reading a long time ago that a couple of degrees one way gives a more malty, better bodied pint and the other way a thinner, more alcoholic pint.
Also different mash temperatures for stouts and pales etc.
I want to be able to control my mash temperature accurately.
Back to the question.............Does the STC 1000 probe need a thermowell/ dry pocket and can it be dunked into hot water ?
Cheers Jim
From minesapint
I have got my STC 1000, relay etc , blinkers on and the bit between my teeth. I am definitely going for an accurate , temperature controlled mashing set up.
Something that I can initially tweak with hot and cold water to the correct temperature and then confidently walk away from, for an hour or so.
The thermostat originally supplied with the boiler ,whilst functional, is not the most accurately reliable.
My mash can be a couple of degrees out either way unless I keep probing, stirring and tweaking the existing boiler thermostat.
After reading a long time ago that a couple of degrees one way gives a more malty, better bodied pint and the other way a thinner, more alcoholic pint.
Also different mash temperatures for stouts and pales etc.
I want to be able to control my mash temperature accurately.
Back to the question.............Does the STC 1000 probe need a thermowell/ dry pocket and can it be dunked into hot water ?
Cheers Jim
From minesapint
Re: STC 1000 Sensor Dry Pocket .
I have a stc1000 with the black plastic sensor and it has been immersed in a container of water in my fermenting fridge for over 1 year so far no problems
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- Telling imaginary friend stories
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Re: STC 1000 Sensor Dry Pocket .
+1 to both the above, yes the stc1000 probe is waterproof so can drop in ok, but also a big +1 to Jims comment on actively heating a mash. Its way easier to maintain a steady mash temp for 90mins with good insulation, preheating, and accurate strike temp (much better use for the stc100 imho).. And if a recipee calls for step mashing its easier to add hot water or draw off and heat some liquor to achieve the result.
The major problem with activly heating a mash is the grain body tends to overheat n cook before transfering any heat thru the grain body, so then people employ pumps valves and herms or rims systems, and while lots o fun gets a bit more complex needing all sorts of additions to the system, float valves to check levels, underbacks to relieve sucktion on the grain bed, insulated Hot return lines..
U can insulate anything with £shop camping mats or bubblewrap even, it dont need to look pretty to work well
r
The major problem with activly heating a mash is the grain body tends to overheat n cook before transfering any heat thru the grain body, so then people employ pumps valves and herms or rims systems, and while lots o fun gets a bit more complex needing all sorts of additions to the system, float valves to check levels, underbacks to relieve sucktion on the grain bed, insulated Hot return lines..
U can insulate anything with £shop camping mats or bubblewrap even, it dont need to look pretty to work well
r
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate