Buffalo boiler conversion

[Iantheyounger]

I decided to try and change my new Buffalo boiler Model no. GL349. There are plenty of pictorials so thought it should be fairly straightforward.

However, it seems that Buffalo have updated their components - see photo.

As far as I can work out the thermal cut out fuse is in the metal tube. Which is sealed.

The cut out switch also seems to have changed. I saw a suggested replacement on a site but it is too small.

So all in all, a frustrating weekend! But hope this helps someone else.

Ian

[Goulders]

Why do you need to " upgrade" it? Does it not work properly? If it ain't broke, don't fix it as they say. If it has, fair enough. Had mine for 3-4 years, and never had a problem with mine. I do keep the element clean though.

[Iantheyounger]

Because I want to BIAB with it and as standard you can't get a decent rolling boil. By upgrading the thermal fuse and cut out, you can achieve this.

[AnthonyUK]

Because I want to BIAB with it and as standard you can't get a decent rolling boil. By upgrading the thermal fuse and cut out, you can achieve this.

The thermal fuse is a one-shot item that can blow if the heat plate gets gunked up and there is no need to change that unless it goes. The thermal cut-out should be rated at at least 120°c so shouldn't stop a rolling boil. The key to using these for BIAB is to keep the plate clean.

[guypettigrew]

Thanks for the 'photos, fascinating to see how the design has changed.

You've obviously managed to get into the underneath of the boiler which, I have to say, looks much neater in the new design than it does in my older one!

If you know what you're doing you can bypass anything in there, but safety is paramount, so take qualified advice.

What I can't see is how you'd replace the element. The older Buffalo has about eight screws holding the element in place, with a silicone gasket to seal it. Easy peasy to change. How would you do it with the new one?

Guy

[Beer O'Clock]

I've been using mine for BIAB in standard form for over 5 years. It doesn't need any modifications apart from keeping the element clean.

[Goulders]

Because I want to BIAB with it and as standard you can't get a decent rolling boil. By upgrading the thermal fuse and cut out, you can achieve this.

And a rolling boil isn't a fierce boil like you see on US videos...

[Dave S]

Thanks for the 'photos, fascinating to see how the design has changed.

You've obviously managed to get into the underneath of the boiler which, I have to say, looks much neater in the new design than it does in my older one!

If you know what you're doing you can bypass anything in there, but safety is paramount, so take qualified advice.

What I can't see is how you'd replace the element. The older Buffalo has about eight screws holding the element in place, with a silicone gasket to seal it. Easy peasy to change. How would you do it with the new one?

Guy

Qualified advice would, (or should) strongly advise against bypassing or removing any safety feature from any device. It's just asking for trouble. And if a mishap were to occur, and assuming you were still alive, you wouldn't have a leg to stand on if legal proceeding were to follow.

[Iantheyounger]

Thanks for the comments.

I assume a "rolling boil" is one where the water actually moves continuously - hence "rolling". My Buffalo cuts out at 101c and restarts at 93c. I will admit I have only tried it twice.

As for the health and safety advice - noted.

Ian

[Goulders]

Just keep the element clean. One way is to have a scrubby attached to a stick and scrub the element during the boil. Hopefully that'll work for you

[AnthonyUK]

Thanks for the comments.

I assume a "rolling boil" is one where the water actually moves continuously - hence "rolling". My Buffalo cuts out at 101c and restarts at 93c. I will admit I have only tried it twice.

As for the health and safety advice - noted.

Ian

I tend to brew outside and find that by partially fitting the lid you can control how vigorous the boil is.
Some people might say this can lead to DMS but I mainly use Maris Otter and have never detected even a hint.

Looking at that new design I wouldn't want to break the element as it doesn't appear to be replaceable but you can always fit a non-concealed type if that should happen.

Some tips on avoiding scorching on the element.

Mash then raise the bag, vorlauf (use a jug and fill from the tap and pour back through the bag) for 5-10 mins or until wort is pretty clear. Raise temp for mashout if you feel it is required then raise bag again to drain and vorlauf while heating to boil. The element in my Buffalo is pretty much clean using this method and has not cutout once since I started doing this.
I burned out one element though before working this out. I also tried changing the thermal cutout and other mods all which had no effect.

Depending on what you want to achieve, there may be some additional benefits from a vorlauf - Another exbeeriment from Brulosopher

http://brulosophy.com/2016/02/22/the-vo ... t-results/

[rpt]

It appears they have completely redesigned it. I knew my tap mod didn't work but the electrics are different too. With my Buffalo I managed 20 trouble free boils and then it started cutting out. There was a bad connection that was overheating. Fixing this made it work for a while but in the end I had to replace the thermal cutout.

[TheSumOfAllBeers]

During a boil my buffalo will sometimes gunk up and start cutting out. It varies by grist, but happened often enough that I stopped doing 90 min boils.

Then I found out a solution: big ass stainless mash paddle. About 2' long. I basically scrape the gunk off and no more cut outs.

[f00b4r]

During a boil my buffalo will sometimes gunk up and start cutting out. It varies by grist, but happened often enough that I stopped doing 90 min boils.

Then I found out a solution: big ass stainless mash paddle. About 2' long. I basically scrape the gunk off and no more cut outs.

This is what the grainfather guys also recommend for its concealed element, I also find a vorlauf with about 5L when the mash ends seems to help stop build-up on the element area (can't remember who recommended this but it is quick and easy to do and does not make a huge difference in terms of effort or time).

[AnthonyUK]

...can't remember who recommended this but it is quick and easy to do and does not make a huge difference in terms of effort or time).

It was me after I burnt out my first element