2.4 KW Element Fault ?

[Hoppydaze]

Hi all, Does anyone have any ideas why my 2.4 kw element has failed. The element was supplied by a well known home brew supplier with the power lead. It is installed in my HLT. Last week whilst heating the water for a brew I noticed a burning smell and found that the plug connecting to the element was starting to melt. The wire leading to the plug was cool. I changed the plug for a new hot type from my local Maplins and all was well for my brew day. Half way through this week ends brew the same happened again. Do you think its the element at fault or something else. I have ordered a new element and lead from Angel as I do not want to wait for delivery from the original supplier (You know who it is) Forgot to mention the failed element has worked fine for approx. 20 brews.

[jaroporter]

sounds like a high resistance connection. is the element damaged now? did you notice any signs or dirt or discolouration on the element pins? could have been a worn/dodgy connection in the original lead as well. i know you've then used a different one but those maplin hot leads seem to be the best part of useless anyways..

[Hoppydaze]

Hi Jaroporter, Yes the element is now damaged and yes the pins are discolored. New one on the way thanks for the info.

[orlando]

Hi all, Does anyone have any ideas why my 2.4 kw element has failed. The element was supplied by a well known home brew supplier with the power lead. It is installed in my HLT. Last week whilst heating the water for a brew I noticed a burning smell and found that the plug connecting to the element was starting to melt. The wire leading to the plug was cool. I changed the plug for a new hot type from my local Maplins and all was well for my brew day. Half way through this week ends brew the same happened again. Do you think its the element at fault or something else. I have ordered a new element and lead from Angel as I do not want to wait for delivery from the original supplier (You know who it is) Forgot to mention the failed element has worked fine for approx. 20 brews.

The problem is the fit the power lead has to the element prongs, it is shorting because it isn't stable enough, I have the same problem. I have discussed it with a sparky who has suggested permanent fittings but they are a little impractical because of cleaning. The hot condition leads I have tried to date have all been inadequate in the long term, they usually last about a dozen brews and finally give up in Summer when it is already warm. So far I'm unaware of a solution based on finding a lead good enough, hopefully someone can recommend something, meanwhile I am about to yet again order some new ones which are at least cheap enough. So far at least my elements are undamged.

[vacant]

On my DIY 60 ltr plastic boiler I have two Asda elements. I use hot-condition rewireable sockets similar to this. As they unscrew, you can squeeze the metal contacts inside to make sure of a good connection when in use.

On my second-hand 50 ltr stainless boiler I have a 2.75kW Backer element and an unbranded 2.4kw Backer look-alike. Both have the old fashioned large round plugs that were probably over-engineered and will take a lot of abuse. Looking at the Backer website it seems their 2.75kW element has an old-fashioned round plug but the 2.4kW uses the modern smaller C15 type?

If you can source the hefty round kettle leads, that type seem like the best connection. Otherwise you could replace your socket with a rewireable letting you maintain the contacts for reliability.

[Hoppydaze]

Hi All, Thanks for the info. Next question- Is it possible to enlarge the element hole to accommodate Mr Lards 3 KW element as used on my kettle with no problems so far using a suitable Q max cutter? This is hard wired and as I understand will eliminate the current problem. (no pun Intended)

[ciderhead]

They are narrower that the holes you have, I know he has an adapter for that sort of retrofit though.

[Fil]

iirc its a 28mm hole needed for the 2.4kw and 3kw lwd brewing elements Mark has, if within a drive of ox4 your welcome to borrow my punch for the job..

if your hole is too large, i found an anodised aluminium tax disc holder an easy bodge/fix to seal the larger hole, i simply drilled through the face ring and back plate to replace the original screws with stainless steel nuts n bolts, a silicone baking sheet washer made the seal watertight.

[orlando]

I have sourced an excellent supplier of top quality IEC C15 Hot Rated UK Mains Power Leads. I have brewed using these 3 times now and not a hint of over heating. They are a very snug fit on Mr L's sockets so none of the shorting you get with others that are too loose.

[alexlark]

Just got one from the same company off eBay for slightly less. Item number 330942526638

Be nice to have a good quality spare.

[donnyo]

Thank you. Perfect timing as a secondhand HLT I bought earlier in the year has cheap kettle elements that melt Maplin hot condition lead connectors after barely an hour.
Think I won't dare using them again and source a low density element and a new lead. That'll be 7 holes in my HLT now and yet another qmax cutter I need to find for the new element!

[Bunglebrewsbeer]

Sorted. Will need some of these soon.


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[lord groan]

The C15's in the link are rated for 10A but have a 13A fuse, the 1mm wire is penny pinching really, they could just as easily fit 1.5mm wire to allow the full 13a. Any element above 2400w will draw more than 10A, the fuse won't blow but 1.00mm wiring will start to get warm, that's likely the reason for overheating as well as slack connectors in the plug itself.
I wouldn't use them myself, safer to get 13a ones. (They will be OK with elements under 2400w though)

[orlando]

The C15's in the link are rated for 10A but have a 13A fuse, the 1mm wire is penny pinching really, they could just as easily fit 1.5mm wire to allow the full 13a. Any element above 2400w will draw more than 10A, the fuse won't blow but 1.00mm wiring will start to get warm, that's likely the reason for overheating as well as slack connectors in the plug itself.
I wouldn't use them myself, safer to get 13a ones. (They will be OK with elements under 2400w though)

I'm sure you are right but in operation they do not show the problems you predict. I will keep an eye open as in time you may be proved completely right but my elements are 2.4 so maybe that's why they appear to be OK. My problem with other C15's has been the loose connection, these are very solid. Can you provide a link to ones you prefer to use?

[alexlark]

I've only ever seen 10A cable versions. Not sure why.