Making my cool box mash tun/sparger

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Vossy1

Making my cool box mash tun/sparger

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:03 pm

First I sourced a cool box. This is a 32ltr coleman cool box

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The box has foam insulation between inner and outer wall but the lid was hollow.
I drilled 6.5mm holes in the lid at varying positions and then injected expanding foam into until it came out of the holes. This was trimmed when dry and the hole sealed with masitc.

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Next I had to cut a hole, centrally and as low as possible in the side of the cool box to accommodate a tap. Being very careful not to cut into the inner wall. I used a lock hole cutting adapter on my drill. The centre punch came through the interior wall into the cool box and I could use this to cut the hole more accurately in the inner wall to fit the tap

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Tap fitted

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Next I created the manifold. This is made of 22mm copper pipe, 4 x 22mm corners and a 22mm to 15mm reducer tee piece. The manifold had to utilise the entire surface area of the box but remain 1/2 an inch fron the sides.
First I cut the copper pipe to length.

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Then at 1/2 inch intervals I cut halfway through the pipe along its entire length, and then assembled the manifold. The joints do not require soldering, just push fit together.

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I then attached the manifolds to the tap using a section of clear pvc piping.

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I then had to drill a 6.5mm hole centrally in the lid to take the sparger.

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Then I pushed the sparger through the lid and the job is a gooden.

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I will have to test the temperature holding capabilities of my new mash tun, though I'm sure it will be fine.

I know this has been covered before by full malty, but I thought I'd show the process in glorious technocolour :P

EDIT

I have now changed the tap for an all metal construction. I did this primarily for a more sturdy set up. I use a standard 15mm tank plug, compression fittings and a 15-10mm radiator valve. The 10mm is just the right size for my tubing

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:10 pm

Nice one Vossy!

What are the manifold guru's thoughts on 1" spacing for the cuts ?

And.....where do you guys get your 22mm copper from in reasonable lengths ?
I'm only after 1m and the plumbing merchants have a 3m minimum length, BnQ
etc have 2m lengths for about £11 !! I'm going to get some from BES Ltd I think
for about £6 per 2m.

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:18 pm

Manifold guru's reply :P

When I last went into the HBS he traced the ready made mash tuns manifold onto a piece of paper for me. The cuts were at 1" intervals.

Copper pipe....hmmm my wifes dad is a plumber so all copper bits cost me nowt.
Cool box £21 and sparger £17.

I was quite annoyed at paying £21 for the cool box but after 3 hours driving around Manchester trying to find a £17 one, I went back to the 1st shop that we went to and bought it :angry:

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:22 pm

QUOTE (Vossy1 @ Aug 7 2006, 02:18 PM) Manifold guru's reply :P
I meant the other gurus !! :P

Western Brewer

Post by Western Brewer » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:41 pm

I recently made my mash tun and was told that slots were needed every 5-6mm which I did as I had just over 1 inch between maine so cut 3 more between exisiting slots see http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g270/ ... ifold2.jpg for a picture of the modified manifold. Used for the firsttime yesterday and I didn't get a stuck run off.
P.S. And i'm not a gnu :P

Western Brewer

Post by Western Brewer » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:43 pm

BTW Love the idea if the spinny sparger thing in the lid. I feel another mod coming on.
Nice work!

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:02 pm

Other Guru's andy...there can only be one,

I am the one, the only one, I am the god of Kingdom come, give me the prise...if your as old as me you might know what I'm going on about

Otherwise, there can be only one true jedi master and I've turned to the brew side :P

Anyway, WB, oh my god, how did you have the patience, that's serious work

Well done m8

You've suceeded in making me paranoid now.....hmmm...stuck mash :( :blink:

Western Brewer

Post by Western Brewer » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:49 pm

Vossy Mate,
It really only took about 15 minutes. I just used a 24 tpi hacksaw blade in a frame of course. I thought it was hard because after bending I did the extra slots and it was difficult to hold then.
Go for it, it won't take long. Better than a stuck mash ;)

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:53 pm

Might well do that WB ;)

The memory of sawing though is still too fresh in my mind. I too used a 24 tpsi 18" hacksaw and to do that little lot took me 30 min......I was drinking beer at the time though :rolleyes:

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:45 pm

Still sweating.....why do we do it?????

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Slits now every 1/2 inch, topic post updated.

Silly Question after all the hard work....

Why don't we use plastic piping and push fit connectors, it would make the job a whole lot easier and plastic is easier to clean :blink:

bod

Post by bod » Mon Aug 07, 2006 6:47 pm

QUOTE (Vossy1 @ Aug 7 2006, 04:45 PM)
Why don't we use plastic piping and push fit connectors,
cos plastic aint as shiny!!! ;)

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Mon Aug 07, 2006 6:49 pm

I'm gutted, I've just remebered you can get chrome piping :P :lol:

Western Brewer

Post by Western Brewer » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:27 pm

Nasty chemicals used in the plating process. Would they leech out of the plating?

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Jim
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Post by Jim » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:49 pm

I would stick to plain copper (as opposed to chrome plate that is); it's definitely safe.

Plus you may find shiny pipe is nickel plated - it's hard to tell the difference, but it may react differently to the acid environment. :blink:

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:15 pm

Here's my manifold version, in shiny 22mm copper.

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The slots appear to be on average about 6-7mm apart. I just cut them close enough that I thought would give a good flow, but without reducing structural integrity.

The slots are cut to about 1/2 way through the pipe.

Not had a stuck runnoff yet. :)

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