tri clamp parts

The forum for discussing all kinds of brewing paraphernalia.
User avatar
Pinto
Falling off the Barstool
Posts: 3443
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:09 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex

Re: tri clamp parts

Post by Pinto » Tue Feb 07, 2017 7:19 pm

Fastline wrote:Hey Pinto, The R tech tig, what model is it you use, are you using it in a work environment or hobby capacity, how long you had it any problems?

I've Bought loads of the Chinese Triclamp stuff, Can be a bit fiddly lots of the micro breweries and big boys use RJT threaded fittings, not as flash looking as triclamp but can be easier to use

I like the idea of welded triclamp fittings to accept my brewbuilder elements, just got to get my bum in gear and get it done.
Hi Fast line,

I have this unit :

http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/tig-weld ... dc-160amp/

I've had it nearly 2 years and its been a fantastic bit of kit, and also the same unit I learnt on at college. The college unit did once develop a problem an issue with the ac, but r-tech fixed it quickly without a fuss so backup is good.

Mine gets semi-commercial use, making up kit and the occasional stainless exhaust and its handled everything asked of it. Of course, the only issue you might have is explaining the near 1K price tag to SWMBO :lol:

That said, AC is only needed for alloy - if you're sticking to stainless and mild steel, this unit :

http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/tig-weld ... dc-160amp/

Will more than meet your needs with a much softer blow to the wallet :)
Primary 1: Nonthing
Primary 2 : Nothing
Primary 3 : None
Secondary 1 : Empty
Secondary 1 : None
DJ(1) : Nowt
DJ(2) : N'otin....
In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
In the bottle : Cinnamonator TC, Apple Boost Cider, Apple & Strawberry Cider
Planning : AG #5 - Galaxy Pale (re-brew) / #6 - Alco-Brau (Special Brew Clone) / #7 Something belgian...
Projects : Mini-brew (12l brew length kit) nearly ready :D

Join the BrewChat - open minds and adults only ;) - Click here

Fastline
Hollow Legs
Posts: 422
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:38 pm
Location: Eltham London

Re: tri clamp parts

Post by Fastline » Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:54 pm

im keen to try a pulsed set, see for myself the benefits, should give better control of heat input so another trick for controlling distortion. And from what I've seen can help Arc stability on aluminium. Both things I've had jobs recently that challenged our current setup.
Might need to get with the times

User avatar
Pinto
Falling off the Barstool
Posts: 3443
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:09 pm
Location: Rye, East Sussex

Re: tri clamp parts

Post by Pinto » Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:00 am

The tech in use with the R-tech units also allows you to bring welding current right down - I could get the same penetration at 40A as a much older parweld set we had to use would require 60-70A, with much better control, much less thermal input and the arc stability was also much better with the more modern electronics. For the money, I haven't seen better TBH. (Only better set I've used was a new Miller Dynasty - but at 4-5x the price, it certainly wasn't 4-5 times better....)

I find pulse useful for certain things, keeps the heat lower and also tightens the arc cone so you can make a finer joint, useful on smaller pipe welds, etc.
Primary 1: Nonthing
Primary 2 : Nothing
Primary 3 : None
Secondary 1 : Empty
Secondary 1 : None
DJ(1) : Nowt
DJ(2) : N'otin....
In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
In the bottle : Cinnamonator TC, Apple Boost Cider, Apple & Strawberry Cider
Planning : AG #5 - Galaxy Pale (re-brew) / #6 - Alco-Brau (Special Brew Clone) / #7 Something belgian...
Projects : Mini-brew (12l brew length kit) nearly ready :D

Join the BrewChat - open minds and adults only ;) - Click here

Fil
Telling imaginary friend stories
Posts: 5229
Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:49 pm
Location: Cowley, Oxford

Re: tri clamp parts

Post by Fil » Wed Feb 08, 2017 2:17 am

fwiw i silver soldered a 2" ferrule to a SS pot lid, the trick is to only heat the ss triclamp flange with the mapp gas torch and use a suitable acid flux. then all you need do is coil up the silver solder and pop it inside the ferrule.
(i soldered the joint before qmax punching out the centre..)

just heat the flange it takes a fair few minutes but when the whole flange is hot enough its also hot enough to transfer the heat to the solder AND the pot skin.

Dont apply any flame to a thin skin off SS it WILL buckle straight away!!

sanding/filling the ferrule to match the curve of the pot or hammering flat the joint point would also be wise imho..
Image
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate :(

Post Reply