tri clamp parts
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- Drunk as a Skunk
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tri clamp parts
hey guys, just a quick wondering if any of you have bought triclamp fittings from ebay/china? and if so what the quality is like and whether they're genuine stainless steel or some kinda "chinese steel"
i've looked back on some old threads a few years back where people had some suppliers in the UK, but i'm struggling to find all the different bits i want from places like brewbuilder, etc.
and unfortunately the exchange rate makes ordering from the USA a crazy idea..
cheers for any thoughts or alternative places to look
i've looked back on some old threads a few years back where people had some suppliers in the UK, but i'm struggling to find all the different bits i want from places like brewbuilder, etc.
and unfortunately the exchange rate makes ordering from the USA a crazy idea..
cheers for any thoughts or alternative places to look
dazzled, doused in gin..
Re: tri clamp parts
I've bought quite a few tri-clamp parts from china, mainly from - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/doubleturbo201 ... =861496619
They seem fine to me.
They seem fine to me.
- barneey
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Re: tri clamp parts
Never had an issue with the Chinese Clamp fittings.
However I do have quite a few Blichmann Clamp fittings & the quality is better in terms of weight & feel (no doubt a higher quality stainless as well?).
Some/most UK homebrew shops simply sell on Chinese fittings.
The most important thing is to understand the relationship between bore & flange size, most domestic homebrew stuff is 1.5" Triclover - 50mm flange. It can get very lost in Chinese translation, the better sellers post diagrams with dimensions.
However I do have quite a few Blichmann Clamp fittings & the quality is better in terms of weight & feel (no doubt a higher quality stainless as well?).
Some/most UK homebrew shops simply sell on Chinese fittings.
The most important thing is to understand the relationship between bore & flange size, most domestic homebrew stuff is 1.5" Triclover - 50mm flange. It can get very lost in Chinese translation, the better sellers post diagrams with dimensions.
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
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Re: tri clamp parts
brilliant cheers both of you that's the reassurance i was after! that was actually the seller i was looking at chris, so i think i'll give it a punt and report back when they arrive.
fortunately that seller does explain the sizing or it seems like it'd be a bit potluck what you get..
did either of you get any weld ferrules? i see brewershardware offers a long and short ferrule length. do you know if the chinese ones would be long enough for welding onto the side of a keggle?
fortunately that seller does explain the sizing or it seems like it'd be a bit potluck what you get..
did either of you get any weld ferrules? i see brewershardware offers a long and short ferrule length. do you know if the chinese ones would be long enough for welding onto the side of a keggle?
dazzled, doused in gin..
- barneey
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Re: tri clamp parts
I have used triclamp weld ferrules in the past, in fact I have a couple sitting on my desk at the moment. Fine for mounting on 1.5mm - 2 mm thick flat stainless plate, they are quite thin though, are you welding yourself or soldering?
Edit check the thickness of the "bracelet" part of the clamp you have + thumb turn to determine is the offset is enough.
Edit check the thickness of the "bracelet" part of the clamp you have + thumb turn to determine is the offset is enough.
Last edited by barneey on Mon Jan 09, 2017 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
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- Drunk as a Skunk
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Re: tri clamp parts
to be honest i've considered soldering but thinking it might just be better and not much more expensive (i only got a propane torch that i don't think will cut it) to find a welder to chuck them on. i was thinking the curve of the side of the keg would mean a fair bit of the neck would have to push through inside. maybe 10-ish mm is enough? is it soldering you need thicker parts for?
dazzled, doused in gin..
Re: tri clamp parts
I have bought weld ferrules from that seller, but I've not had them welded yet alas, so can't really comment.
- barneey
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Re: tri clamp parts
To be on the safe side with the curve of the keg I would go for a longer weld ferrule than those I have pictured.
Hair of the dog, bacon, butty.
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
Hops, cider pips & hello.
Name the Movie + song :)
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- Drunk as a Skunk
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- Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:12 pm
- Location: Garden of England
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- Drunk as a Skunk
- Posts: 996
- Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:12 pm
- Location: Garden of England
Re: tri clamp parts
just to update, i bought a load of 1,5" and 2" triclamp fittings from that ebay vendor. can't have been much over a week or so for delivery and the quality of metal seems perfectly fine. the 1,5" are grand, however none of the 2" mated with each other - the grooves were misaligned or missized. the seller immediately offered to refund so no complaints there and i haven't lost anything, but i think i'll have to order again and just hope for better. it was a bit concerning that it was three different types of 2" union that didn't match each other. will be annoying if i have to bastardise the gaskets just to get them to fit!
on another note, having researched the strength of a good solder joint, i reckon i'm going to give that a go first. thinking i'll fishmouth the ferrules and solder on to the side face as it'd be easier to guarantee good all round solder contact than drilling a larger hole and jamming the ferrule in tight first. i'm sure the second method will give a stronger joint ultimately, but i'm thinking either should be good enough for these purposes, and able to take the odd ding.. anyone managed to bang a solder joint off?
on another note, having researched the strength of a good solder joint, i reckon i'm going to give that a go first. thinking i'll fishmouth the ferrules and solder on to the side face as it'd be easier to guarantee good all round solder contact than drilling a larger hole and jamming the ferrule in tight first. i'm sure the second method will give a stronger joint ultimately, but i'm thinking either should be good enough for these purposes, and able to take the odd ding.. anyone managed to bang a solder joint off?
dazzled, doused in gin..
- Pinto
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Re: tri clamp parts
A good soldered joint is almost as good as a weld:
..but never as neat as a proper TIG joint(which can be works of art !)
Silver solder rods are also rather expensive, and decent flux can be a pain to get too. You're also going to need to purchase a MAPP gas cylinder for your torch as propane (without oxygen) just doesnt have the danglies to silver solder properly.
Im a lucky boy I have a nice R-Tech AC/DC tig in my unit, but still solder in cases of dissimilar metals (eg : Stainless to Copper)
..but never as neat as a proper TIG joint(which can be works of art !)
Silver solder rods are also rather expensive, and decent flux can be a pain to get too. You're also going to need to purchase a MAPP gas cylinder for your torch as propane (without oxygen) just doesnt have the danglies to silver solder properly.
Im a lucky boy I have a nice R-Tech AC/DC tig in my unit, but still solder in cases of dissimilar metals (eg : Stainless to Copper)
Primary 1: Nonthing
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In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
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Primary 2 : Nothing
Primary 3 : None
Secondary 1 : Empty
Secondary 1 : None
DJ(1) : Nowt
DJ(2) : N'otin....
In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
In the bottle : Cinnamonator TC, Apple Boost Cider, Apple & Strawberry Cider
Planning : AG #5 - Galaxy Pale (re-brew) / #6 - Alco-Brau (Special Brew Clone) / #7 Something belgian...
Projects : Mini-brew (12l brew length kit) nearly ready
Join the BrewChat - open minds and adults only - Click here
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- Drunk as a Skunk
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Re: tri clamp parts
cheers pinto that sounds good. that tig almost looks decorative!
to clarify, i wont be brazing, just softsoldering as with copper. with silver-bearing solder. propane seems good enough for that - even better perhaps as there's less risk of damaging the stainless?
to clarify, i wont be brazing, just softsoldering as with copper. with silver-bearing solder. propane seems good enough for that - even better perhaps as there's less risk of damaging the stainless?
dazzled, doused in gin..
- Pinto
- Falling off the Barstool
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Re: tri clamp parts
Working silver solders with propane is possible, but requires prolonged heating to the work piece and increases the degree of oxidisation - (I'm sure you've used a soldering iron where it's just not quite hot enough and the solder blobs and refuses to flow, making a bad joint and looking ugly) - Mapp has much greater instant heating and temperature so the job is quicker and easier. If you have a turbo style plumbers torch, it really is worth the 11 quid a Mapp cylinder will cost you - especially if you plan more joints in the future.
Stainless can't really be damaged, just oxidised where the joint is weakened and prone to rust - you'll see the discolouration. . You can re-passivate this tho with an acid pickle; avoid mineral acid based pickles tho that are dangerous and nasty to use, and order some high grade citric acid powder, mix to a paste and apply/ wash off. A little slower, but much safer to you and your kit.
Stainless can't really be damaged, just oxidised where the joint is weakened and prone to rust - you'll see the discolouration. . You can re-passivate this tho with an acid pickle; avoid mineral acid based pickles tho that are dangerous and nasty to use, and order some high grade citric acid powder, mix to a paste and apply/ wash off. A little slower, but much safer to you and your kit.
Primary 1: Nonthing
Primary 2 : Nothing
Primary 3 : None
Secondary 1 : Empty
Secondary 1 : None
DJ(1) : Nowt
DJ(2) : N'otin....
In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
In the bottle : Cinnamonator TC, Apple Boost Cider, Apple & Strawberry Cider
Planning : AG #5 - Galaxy Pale (re-brew) / #6 - Alco-Brau (Special Brew Clone) / #7 Something belgian...
Projects : Mini-brew (12l brew length kit) nearly ready
Join the BrewChat - open minds and adults only - Click here
Primary 2 : Nothing
Primary 3 : None
Secondary 1 : Empty
Secondary 1 : None
DJ(1) : Nowt
DJ(2) : N'otin....
In the Keg : Nada
Conditioning : Nowt
In the bottle : Cinnamonator TC, Apple Boost Cider, Apple & Strawberry Cider
Planning : AG #5 - Galaxy Pale (re-brew) / #6 - Alco-Brau (Special Brew Clone) / #7 Something belgian...
Projects : Mini-brew (12l brew length kit) nearly ready
Join the BrewChat - open minds and adults only - Click here
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- Drunk as a Skunk
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- Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:12 pm
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Re: tri clamp parts
ok cool. very interesting about the citric acid paste, useful to know there is a get-out for worst case scenario! cheers again
dazzled, doused in gin..
Re: tri clamp parts
Hey Pinto, The R tech tig, what model is it you use, are you using it in a work environment or hobby capacity, how long you had it any problems?
I've Bought loads of the Chinese Triclamp stuff, Can be a bit fiddly lots of the micro breweries and big boys use RJT threaded fittings, not as flash looking as triclamp but can be easier to use
I like the idea of welded triclamp fittings to accept my brewbuilder elements, just got to get my bum in gear and get it done.
I've Bought loads of the Chinese Triclamp stuff, Can be a bit fiddly lots of the micro breweries and big boys use RJT threaded fittings, not as flash looking as triclamp but can be easier to use
I like the idea of welded triclamp fittings to accept my brewbuilder elements, just got to get my bum in gear and get it done.