Ball Valves for Recirculation

[k1100t]

I've seen lots of pots featuring taps at the top, presumably for recirculation. Like this:



What's the point of the ball valve...? Shirley you have a ball valve on the pump output, so you don't need one on the side of the pot too? Can you just get away with a connector (like a male Camlock), or am I missing something...?

Thanks,

Bob.

[Hogarth]

When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.

[k1100t]

When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.

I understand that, but Shirley you have the ball valve attached to the pump, not the pot...? Just seems like you could save some £££ on ball valves...

Cheers,

Bob.

[bobsbeer]

I guess if you got a pot like the one in the picture you wouldn't need one on the pump. I have a similar setup but have the valve on the pump and a camlock on the return port on the pot.

[barneey]

I have a 3 way ballvalve on mine.

[k1100t]

I guess if you got a pot like the one in the picture you wouldn't need one on the pump. I have a similar setup but have the valve on the pump and a camlock on the return port on the pot.

That's what I was leaning towards doing, saves on three ball valves. Just wondered if I was missing something...

Cheers,

Bob.

[Hogarth]

When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.

I understand that, but Shirley you have the ball valve attached to the pump, not the pot...? Just seems like you could save some £££ on ball valves...

Cheers,

Bob.

Ah, sorry. Misread your post, being blonde.

[Jocky]

I'd imagine you have a valve on the pot because if you don't and you fill the pot right up the brim you end up with liquid dribbling out the barb/hole that's on the pot instead.

Also they aren't just for recirc - it's an entry that means you can leave the lid on the pot and avoid loose hoses waving around.

[k1100t]

I'd imagine you have a valve on the pot because if you don't and you fill the pot right up the brim you end up with liquid dribbling out the barb/hole that's on the pot instead.

I imagine that a dust cap (Cam & Groove Part DC) would solve that?

Also they aren't just for recirc - it's an entry that means you can leave the lid on the pot and avoid loose hoses waving around.

I'm not suggesting getting rid of some means of input, just wondering if I can get away without a tap.

Cheers,

Bob.

[Jocky]

I would think the dust cap will seal - you'll just want to check it comes with a gasket as per the regular type C connectors, and isn't in fact just a dust cap.

[barneey]

If you have say a HLT, you want to be able to recirculate, not only for temperature control but for mixing of any water treatment (makes it a lot easier if a recirc is used). Most magnetically coupled pumps are better suited to have the throttle on the output side rather than the inlet side, this can be achieved with a ballvalve as noted on your picture) OR say a mini ballvalve https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/mini-ball ... -male.html

Now what happens, when you want to say pump the liquor into the MT, find a cloth to man handle that QD/ C&G etc and connect the hose to another port (or wherever). Say if you bought a https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3-way-bal ... -port.html = enables your recirc to be permanently set up + the hose to MT or whatever. It also enables the flow to the MT or whatever to be controlled, this might be useful if your underlet, have a floating mash bed, OR if you want to control a SPARGE arm.

[Kev888]

Also, sometimes a reason for a tap at the inlet is if there is a dip-tube/hose on the inside of the pot (e.g to direct a whirlpool) - which can back-syphon in certain situations if it isn't closed off.

Additionally not all systems economise on pumps; for convenience or time-efficiency or other reasons, they may have two or three or more, each dedicated to a given task - in that case it doesn't matter whether the valve is at the pump or (perhaps more conveniently placed) at the tank.

Or the valve may be left set at a given flow/restriction appropriate for the tank it serves, so the pump may be freely swapped to other tasks without the need to alter and reset a single pump valve each time.

None of these things may be relevant or important to you. This, in part, is one joy of DIY - if budget/time/skill etc permit, you can do whatever suits your own personal preferences, or even just play with and test your own ideas of what may work best for you.

[k1100t]

Thanks for the explanations barneey and Kev888; some food for thought.

Thanks,

Bob.