Burco heater questions

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Deano1989
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Burco heater questions

Post by Deano1989 » Wed Feb 14, 2018 4:46 pm

Hi, I'm looking at buying a burco water heater (trying to find a 40l but struggling), I want to use this as my brew kettle and possibly mash tun for BIAB.
I'd like to know people's opinion on these, and my main question is can I get a good rolling boil without taking it apart at all? , if not how easy is it to adapt so I can use it for a boil.
Thanks in advance.

aamcle
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by aamcle » Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:54 pm

I've not seen a 40 L Burco mine was 27L about 30-31 to the rim, The best thing you can do is strip all the controls out and manage the boiler with a PID/SSR/PT100 combo. Don't be tempted with a thermo-couple PT100's are better and you can calibrate them at home.

There are plenty of build treads on the forum that will explain how to do it, it's not difficult.

The most common 40 l urn is I think the Buffalo but they are not as well made as Burcos.


ATB. Aamcle

lord groan
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by lord groan » Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:32 pm

Hi,
They do exist, but aren't easy to come by. There have been a few models, with the most recent that I've seen being double walled - painted steel outer with S/S liner. The most recent (1960's ish?) use a standard 3kw butterfly element, model no. F44L. I usually see the older galvanised liner ones on ebay.
For info here's a link to one with an s/s liner on ebay - sorry but it's a finished sale!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-Orig ... 7675.l2557

Deano1989
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by Deano1989 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:17 am

Thanks the only 40l ones that I can find are buffalo, I know there's ways to fit different thermal parts to maintain a rolling boil, and now this pt100 idea, the trouble is I don't want to do a bodge job if you know what I mean , is it risky changing all these parts because it feels like it is . Does anyone have a very simple basic guide to how I can get a rolling boil on one of these boilers

chrisbjones202
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by chrisbjones202 » Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:32 am

I have a 40l buffalo, the only mod is the thermocouple (copper tube with thin copper pipe to the temperature) knob is removed from the base and clipped away.

Mine boils fine for normal 23l brew length.

I'm no expert but I don't think a temp controller is the right way to go anyway as you need a rolling boil. If your boil was too strong e.g. you had a half brew length you should be reducing power, not switching on and off as in a thermostat. This can be done with a rheostat and SSR.

The all in ones have 2 heating coils to reduce power for mash even though they all have temp control.

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Fil
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by Fil » Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:24 am

Deano1989 wrote:
Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:17 am
Thanks the only 40l ones that I can find are buffalo, I know there's ways to fit different thermal parts to maintain a rolling boil, and now this pt100 idea, the trouble is I don't want to do a bodge job if you know what I mean , is it risky changing all these parts because it feels like it is . Does anyone have a very simple basic guide to how I can get a rolling boil on one of these boilers
Hi Deano
!st off im no electrician nor am i qualified in any way to give advice on the subject... but ;)

your wise to be wary of the potential dangers of messing with anything electrical. however the thermal switch you are referring to is an easily identified component that is secured with a screw/nut or 2 to the pot underside and is connected to the electrical circuit with two pull off connectors, and you cannot wire it the wrong way. it simply switches off, cuts the circuit when it gets hot enough.

Image

Modern 'health n safety' is such that devices such as a burco/buffalo should never pose a threat by overboiling so they have a lower temp thermal switch fitted than we would like.

now these are not precision devices an the whole and there can be some variance that allows some to boil quite happily without any mods, while some find the kettle wont even hit a boil.. So you cant say for sure in advance of buying unfortunately.

some folk simply remove it from the base as that stops it over heating. And some bypass it completely, others exchange it for one rated to switch at temps over 120c thus still providing some protection against boiling dry and burning out the 2nd level of defence the thermal fuse.

if the thermal fuse blows then that is a one shot deal and unlike the thermal switch it will not reset itself when cooler.

but caution is wise, but if you buy one you can always post pics to ensure your looking at the right bits etc..
ist update for months n months..
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darlacat
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Re: Burco heater questions

Post by darlacat » Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:02 pm

[quote="chrisbjones202"]I have a 40l buffalo, the only mod is the thermocouple (copper tube with thin copper pipe to the temperature) knob is removed from the base and clipped away.

Mine boils fine for normal 23l brew length.

I'm no expert but I don't think a temp controller is the right way to go anyway as you need a rolling boil. If your boil was too strong e.g. you had a half brew length you should be reducing power, not switching on and off as in a thermostat. This can be done with a rheostat and SSR.

The all in ones have 2 heating coils to reduce power for mash even though they all have temp control.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk[/quote]I'm currently looking to mod a 40 litre Buffalo boiler I bought recently.

I'm wondering: is it sufficient to remove the thermocouple so the thermostat doesn't register the temperature of the element? Or does the thermal cutoff also measure temperature somehow and needs to be removed from the element to allow a rolling boil?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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