Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Thank you all for the encouragement. I will let you know how it went.
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Okay, foks!
I finally ordered the "Seal Kit for RLBS (was EWL) Paragon Plus 1/4pt Cylinder" in order to get rid of the moldy taste.
22 GBP for some O-rings and stuff...
But the real problem (for me!) is this little note: "Please note, there are no installation instructions with these kits"
The following pictures show how far I got disassembling the engine (and also, how a "fully refurbished beer engine from RLBS" looks on the inside...).
I am literally stuck now. I can't figure out how to detach the cylinder (and water jacket) from the rest of the pump in order to have a look inside, clean and replace the fittings). No matter how long I turn the damn thing, it won't unscrew.
Any help is appreciated.
And please, go ahead and have a laugh at my total incompetence. Now you know why I joined the clergy. Hopeless case!
Thanks and cheers!
Marc


I finally ordered the "Seal Kit for RLBS (was EWL) Paragon Plus 1/4pt Cylinder" in order to get rid of the moldy taste.
22 GBP for some O-rings and stuff...
But the real problem (for me!) is this little note: "Please note, there are no installation instructions with these kits"
The following pictures show how far I got disassembling the engine (and also, how a "fully refurbished beer engine from RLBS" looks on the inside...).
I am literally stuck now. I can't figure out how to detach the cylinder (and water jacket) from the rest of the pump in order to have a look inside, clean and replace the fittings). No matter how long I turn the damn thing, it won't unscrew.
Any help is appreciated.
And please, go ahead and have a laugh at my total incompetence. Now you know why I joined the clergy. Hopeless case!
Thanks and cheers!
Marc


Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
I’m not familiar with this model but it looks like there’s a retaining pin going through the long hex nut. Gently tap it out with a nail and hammer. Then unscrew the long hex nut and locking nut.
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Alas, that's not possible. The retaining pin is going in on one side of the nut but does not come out on the other. Pushing it through is therefore not possible.
I am still scratching my head about how to get the cylinder and inner parts out of the cooling jacket. I guess the nylon jacket must be screwed apart somehow...
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Does the pin protrude enough to loosen it with a thin flat edge, e.g., chisel or screwdriver? Is there a grub screw keeping it in place? Possibly in the end of the long hex nut. Looks like you can swing the cylinder down and look through the back. Otherwise I can only imagine the cylinder needs to be disassembled. Looks like it has several fastening holes. Then inside the cylinder the central rod probably needs to be disconnected from the plunger so it can be pulled through and out to swap the seals.
- Trefoyl
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2540
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:28 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
I would suggest taking it to a pub if you’re friendly with any of the landlords and asking if they can figure it out. I suspect they may have disassembled a few over the years.
Sommeliers recommend that you swirl a glass of wine and inhale its bouquet before throwing it in the face of your enemy.
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Having returned a similar one myself I would suggest trying the below:
Separating the piston/pump assembly from the handle should require a spanner. The hexagonal barrel at the top should have a conventional thread to accept the steel rod. To undo this you will need to loosen the small hex nut underneath as this acts as a Lock Nut to prevent the pump unscrewing in use. Undo the hex nut until there is a gap between this and the hexagonal barrel, then unscrew the entire pump assembly. If this has not been done in a while you may struggle, in which case attempt this after step 2 (just more faffy)
EDIT:
Note that the piston spins freely inside the cylinder, so turning the cylinder does NOT unscrew it from the hexagonal barrel to free it.
My understanding with these designs generally is you have a plastic barrel with two plastic caps containing the piston setup. You should therefore be able to unscrew the pale white bits in your photo against the gritty brown but of the body. I had to resort to gentle pressure from my bench vise to hold this tight enough to unscrew, along with a very large adjustable Spanner to grip the lid.
Once the lids are off you can grip the main piston with your hand and unscrew from the hexagonal barrel if you haven't done so already.
Hope this helps.
Separating the piston/pump assembly from the handle should require a spanner. The hexagonal barrel at the top should have a conventional thread to accept the steel rod. To undo this you will need to loosen the small hex nut underneath as this acts as a Lock Nut to prevent the pump unscrewing in use. Undo the hex nut until there is a gap between this and the hexagonal barrel, then unscrew the entire pump assembly. If this has not been done in a while you may struggle, in which case attempt this after step 2 (just more faffy)
EDIT:
Note that the piston spins freely inside the cylinder, so turning the cylinder does NOT unscrew it from the hexagonal barrel to free it.
My understanding with these designs generally is you have a plastic barrel with two plastic caps containing the piston setup. You should therefore be able to unscrew the pale white bits in your photo against the gritty brown but of the body. I had to resort to gentle pressure from my bench vise to hold this tight enough to unscrew, along with a very large adjustable Spanner to grip the lid.
Once the lids are off you can grip the main piston with your hand and unscrew from the hexagonal barrel if you haven't done so already.
Hope this helps.
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Thanks for the input. I was able to separate the piston from the handle as described by JonB.
So far, I was not able to unscrew the end caps from the barrel. I am planning to try it with a tool used for changing oil filters in motor engines.
So far, I was not able to unscrew the end caps from the barrel. I am planning to try it with a tool used for changing oil filters in motor engines.
- Trefoyl
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2540
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:28 pm
- Location: New Jersey
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
Oil filter pliers are good for getting jar lids off. I’ve been meaning to get a pair.
Sommeliers recommend that you swirl a glass of wine and inhale its bouquet before throwing it in the face of your enemy.
Re: Moldy taste from Beer Engine does not go away
The end cap on mine was very tight. I think I ended up putting it in a woodworking vice in the end. I also had to make a special tool to remove the retaining boss on one of the seals inside. I might see if I can dig out some old pics of it.