Best way to use my filter?

(That's water to the rest of us!) Beer is about 95% water, so if you want to discuss water treatment, filtering etc this is the place to do it!
Post Reply
opentoideas

Best way to use my filter?

Post by opentoideas » Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:50 pm

I have a reverse osmosis system for my aquarium.

It is set up with 5 micron filter – GAC –RO membrane – DI resin

Although this is great for my fish (with the inclusion of minerals) it is counter productive for beermaking. However by taking a feed from just after the active carbon it is just a big version of the under counter filters that seem popular and certainly should remove chlorine and chloramine

With recent infection problems I have had I stopped using this filter as the active carbon is a potential breeding ground for bacteria(although shouldn’t be if changed at least every 6 months) and it was another area I had to rule out to solve the problems that I was having.

Having hopefully found and eliminated my problems I am once again looking at this filter as I don’t want to add Camden tablets to my water – no mater how well they may work I have an aversion to adding chemicals to remove other chemicals :shock:

Is this a foolish line of thinking?

Would I be better served by just using Camden tablets?

I think the filter is my best course but thought it best to check

opentoideas

Post by opentoideas » Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:34 am

My lack of knowledge about the chemical processes involved puts me to shame here :oops:

When I looked into water quality for my fish my tap water was a real problem – it has high levels of nearly everything bad for fish – nitrates,phosphates,heavy metals etc.

Although there are several products on the market to “neutralize” these RO was the cheaper long term solution.

I didn't have a problem with bacteria in the filter - but it was another possibility that I had to investigate and rule out

Not sure about the addition of silver in filters but it sound correct. I currently have this carbon filter but will be replacing it with this one

Although I could use the RO unit to completely strip the water then add back required minerals I understand the “pure” water is a problem to store and keep free from bacteria so would need to be boiled first. From what I read just removing the chlorine will be sufficient for beermaking or at least a good start :)

RO filters are great but 50 gallons per day sounds good until you work out that it is spread over 24 hrs so takes about 3 hrs to filla 25L can :shock: so storage is needed

thats a handy chart, thanks

opentoideas

Post by opentoideas » Sat Apr 19, 2008 1:24 pm

I am lucky in that I only have chlorine in my water not chloramine so the cheaper cartridge should be fine.

I test for chloramine every now and again as its not just bad for my fish and beer but also destroys the RO membrane.

am I correct in thinking that if I use the RO/DI water for diluting my Iodophor that I dont need to acidify it?

opentoideas

Post by opentoideas » Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:59 pm

In that case yes it will be needed - you cant get a meaningfull Ph from RO/DI water as there is no buffering agents in it so the Ph will swing at the slightest change but it is just h2o it would be 7

umpa

Post by umpa » Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:31 pm

I am using RO/|DI to make my wine and beer. So far I have only had a taste of my wine, and it tastes good. Beer is still fermenting / conditioning.

I would have thought that RO is a good starting point as you can condition the water to your brew, however I have just used raw RO/DI.

I would like to hear from more experienced brewers to see what they think.

Thing is with me, whilst if I make a beer to an exact recipe - and by using RO tastes completely wrong - I would not know the difference - lol - so long as it tastes good to me :).

Anyone ?

Thanx

Ump..

User avatar
Aleman
It's definitely Lock In Time
Posts: 6132
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:56 am
Location: Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK

Post by Aleman » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:37 pm

I would use a combination of both, That is, use the post GAC water for the majority of the liquor and add some RO water to bring levels down if they are too high . . . then you can boost the good ions as described.

I would not use pure RO water to make beer as it contains none of the beneficial trace elements that are essential to effective yeast growth . . . OK so you should get sufficient from the malt, but I'm not sure I would want to risk it.

umpa

Post by umpa » Fri May 02, 2008 4:41 pm

I have just tried my Tom Claxtons real ale, made with RO/DI and have to say I like it. Even tho its still not supposed to be ready it tastes really nice, I had to try a couple (or three) - I'll admit I'm drunk!!!!!

I have not had a problem with fermenting (yet) and some county wines I have are still bubbling 20 days after pitching.

Do you know what nutrients that the yeast gets out of tap water ? then if I hit problems I can maybe add them.

I do use yeast nutrient so perhaps it makes up for whats lacking in RO ?

Many tnax in advance

Ump..

User avatar
Aleman
It's definitely Lock In Time
Posts: 6132
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:56 am
Location: Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK

Post by Aleman » Fri May 02, 2008 5:04 pm

Sorry didn't realise you were making kits, what I said only applies to All grain brewing, when kit brewing the water has already been 'burtonised' for the mash. . . . In fact for making kits it is quite possible that RO water is the best to use to make them up.

And Yeast nutrient probably does contribute quite a few micro nutrients as well as the more obvious ones

Post Reply