Got the first page, unsure if there might be anything on pages 2 or 3.
New to you? I might have been around a long time but I'm no old hand at this, just want to help if I can.
You want to know alkalinity in mg/l CaCo3 (which is what I presumed you had), and the amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulphate and chloride. That could then let you calculate the additional quantities required to make your preferred profile.
For largers you need someone else. It must be 25 years since I tried one and it didn't go well. I've still a packet of Gervin larger yeast, Belgian strain with a 40p price tag and no best before date so it must be OK

, but no plans to use it whilst I can adjust my water to make a vast range of English and Irish style beers using available malts including larger malt.
Brewpacks DLS are what I had in mind. Having water with enough calcium is (in crude practical terms) all you need to make a beer, however that beer will taste very different depending upon what salts contain that element. As your water contained very little, they seemed a suitable starting point.
Filtering, up to you. I had a filter installed, for my wife's tea of course. She didn't find it an advantage and I called her rotten. I've found no benefit so don't use it either but do use Campden when I remember. I find no difference when I don't but that doesn't mean it won't help you, just use a bit of a tablet else you might overdose.
If you use acidic grains, the more roasted ones for darker beers, your water doesn't contain sufficient of a buffer to keep the acidity of the mash within preferred bounds which will likely result in lower extraction of sugars and excessive extraction of less desirable components. You can counteract this by using a proportion of highly alkaline bottled water.
Without patience, life becomes difficult and the sooner it's finished, the better.