Starting water treatment

(That's water to the rest of us!) Beer is about 95% water, so if you want to discuss water treatment, filtering etc this is the place to do it!
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orlando
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by orlando » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:36 am

Eric wrote:The pH of your water is of no practical use, a first meaningful reading can be obtained a few minutes into the mash, but don't get too hung up on getting that any more than in the right region.
Agreed, have come to the conclusion that accuracy and precision in this is not as perceptible as you might be lead to believe, but will no doubt still get to obsess a little :D .

If you do have a very alkaline supply, for better pale beers it will be necessary to reduce its level. If you do that using sulphuric acid you will get much of the sulphate you might wish to otherwise add using gypsum and Epsom salts,similarly with hydrochloric acid you would get extra chloride, with CRS a fixed ratio of the previous two and finally phosphoric acid, which is very good for taking rust off car bodywork, can be used for making pilsner style beers.
I don't understand why there appears to be a somewhat negative attitude to phosphoric. It is the most neutral acid as its acid is closest to the acids in the malt (phosphatic) does not introduce sulphate or chloride, which may not be desired so another adjustment needs to be made, is a little easier to handle as it doesn't produce vapours that are to be avoided and won't give you the trots like lactic if you use too much. Getting the rust off your car bodywork sounds like another plus to me :D .
First step, measure your water's alkalinity. Only then look to see what is the next step.
This is where it starts, couldn't agree more.
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Belter

Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Belter » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:38 am

The book water pretty much says 'Use Phosphoric'.

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Aleman » Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:56 am

orlando wrote:I don't understand why there appears to be a somewhat negative attitude to phosphoric. It is the most neutral acid as its acid is closest to the acids in the malt (phosphatic) does not introduce sulphate or chloride
While I agree that as a result of the phytin reaction phosphoric acid is produced from the malt, this then reacts with the calcium in the liquor to form calcium phosphate which precipitates leaving behind the hydrogen ions causing the mash pH to fall. Phosphoric cannot really be regarded as a neutral acid . . . it does have a distinctive taste for example, while not an issue in my liquor, it could well be a significant issue for someone in a hard water area trying to brew a light pale ale for example. Also calcium phosphate is incredibly insoluble (major component of bone), and during the boil will precipitate (mainly on the element from what I have seen helping out other brewers in hard water areas). This is incredibly difficult to remove, and in extreme cases causes elements to fail mid boil.

So that is why I dislike phosphoric. Hydrochloric and sulphuric do not have to be bought in 'fuming' concentrations, and can easily be diluted to working strength (I use 2M hydrochloric and 1M sulphuric). Another benefit is that the 'salts' formed (calcium sulphate and calcium chloride) are much more soluble than calcium phosphate, plus you get 'free' flavour ions, which can be beneficial if you don't need to add to much more calcium, so you can tweak your sulphate / chloride ratio without adding calcium salts in a hard water area, and possibly avoiding the 'dreaded by our US brewing friends' :D excessive mineralisation.

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by orlando » Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:08 am

Aleman wrote: While I agree that as a result of the phytin reaction phosphoric acid is produced from the malt, this then reacts with the calcium in the liquor to form calcium phosphate which precipitates leaving behind the hydrogen ions causing the mash pH to fall. Phosphoric cannot really be regarded as a neutral acid . . . it does have a distinctive taste for example, while not an issue in my liquor, it could well be a significant issue for someone in a hard water area trying to brew a light pale ale for example. Also calcium phosphate is incredibly insoluble (major component of bone), and during the boil will precipitate (mainly on the element from what I have seen helping out other brewers in hard water areas). This is incredibly difficult to remove, and in extreme cases causes elements to fail mid boil.

So that is why I dislike phosphoric. Hydrochloric and sulphuric do not have to be bought in 'fuming' concentrations, and can easily be diluted to working strength (I use 2M hydrochloric and 1M sulphuric). Another benefit is that the 'salts' formed (calcium sulphate and calcium chloride) are much more soluble than calcium phosphate, plus you get 'free' flavour ions, which can be beneficial if you don't need to add to much more calcium, so you can tweak your sulphate / chloride ratio without adding calcium salts in a hard water area, and possibly avoiding the 'dreaded by our US brewing friends' :D excessive mineralisation.
:-k Well that all makes sense and being in a hard water area relates to my water. Still don't agree about the distinctive taste claim, it is used a lot in the drinks industry because of its neutrality, but taste is subjective. I am looking at using RO water to dilute my tap water because of the relatively high calcium content so hydrochloric may obviate the need to do this.

Thanks for that, first proper explanation I've seen.
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Belter » Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:08 pm

Calcium doesn't precipitate out in such great quantities at the pH we brew at 5.2-5.6 but I have no idea how this relates to brewing in terms of the 'much smaller amount' that precipitates compared to adding it to a higher pH buffer and sustaining a higher/lower pH. I need to retread that chapter before I get more confused.

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Aleman » Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:55 pm

Belter wrote:Calcium doesn't precipitate out in such great quantities at the pH we brew at 5.2-5.6
Well mono-calcium phosphate has a solubility of 2g/100ml, and is formed using an acid solution from phosphate bearing rocks (which are not soluble), so I can sort of accept what you are saying, except for the dirty great deposit of calcium phosphate that forms on the element of the boilers I've seen. I guess that you could say that it is not phosphate but carbonate . . .but that is also soluble in acid conditions. . . . I suppose that it could be beer stone (calcium oxalate), but then I've seen it in a HLT without any contribution from the malt
Belter wrote:I need to retread that chapter before I get more confused.
I'm still waiting for my copy :(

Wezzel

Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Wezzel » Wed Oct 30, 2013 1:56 pm

Can't say I've found it any harder to clean my boiler element since using phosphoric acid but having said that I do use a buffalo with a concealed element. Just a little cheap supermarket lemon juice and a sponge scourer and it's clean in about two minutes.

My (London) water is pretty hard too so I tend to use a reasonable amount of acid.

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by orlando » Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:11 pm

Wezzel wrote:Can't say I've found it any harder to clean my boiler element since using phosphoric acid but having said that I do use a buffalo with a concealed element. Just a little cheap supermarket lemon juice and a sponge scourer and it's clean in about two minutes.

My (London) water is pretty hard too so I tend to use a reasonable amount of acid.
I use some granulated citric acid and do this every 3 or 4 brews just to keep on top of it, the HLT seems to be the worst for this :!: Awaiting my copy too, (Water) seems strange that some have had it and some haven't, can't see it as a best seller. :lol:
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Dave S » Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:59 pm

orlando wrote: Awaiting my copy too, (Water) seems strange that some have had it and some haven't, can't see it as a best seller. :lol:
And me, it's taking ages. Element-wise, I put a few drops of CRS on mine which I no longer use for water treatment. The element comes up like a new pin in a few minutes.
Best wishes

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by orlando » Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:48 pm

Dave S wrote:
orlando wrote: Awaiting my copy too, (Water) seems strange that some have had it and some haven't, can't see it as a best seller. :lol:
And me, it's taking ages. Element-wise, I put a few drops of CRS on mine which I no longer use for water treatment. The element comes up like a new pin in a few minutes.

Hah, a use for CRS at last!
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Belter » Wed Oct 30, 2013 7:45 pm

I ordered my copy back in June. I think I must have been first on the list :)

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Eric » Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:12 pm

orlando wrote: I don't understand why there appears to be a somewhat negative attitude to phosphoric. It is the most neutral acid as its acid is closest to the acids in the malt (phosphatic) does not introduce sulphate or chloride, which may not be desired so another adjustment needs to be made, is a little easier to handle as it doesn't produce vapours that are to be avoided and won't give you the trots like lactic if you use too much. Getting the rust off your car bodywork sounds like another plus to me :D .
Hi Orlando,
Take Bigdave's water in this thread as an example. Why use phosphoric acid to reduce excess alkalinity when sulphuric acid or even CRS would both do the job and provide some of the calcium salts it lacks?

I'm far from convinced phosphoric acid is so called neutral and without flavour, is it a component in Coke for that reason? I've never knowingly found a defect that I would call minerality in my beer and to be frank, in any commercial one either. Try a Google with "minerality in wine" and "minerality in beer" to see how common such events are.

For some time I have thought that too much American theory on liquor for brewing is based upon the 1941 paper by Kohlbach. It apparently (I've read the paper was lost during the war) explained the anomaly of high mash pH with very low alkaline water was due to the equivalent lack of calcium salts in that water. He derived a formula to predicted pH change dependent upon variation of alkalinity and calcium salts. While all this was good stuff, I'm not convinced that the experience detailed in that paper is simply transferable to all, those made in a different way with different ingredients and different water.

This was a test with sulphuric and phosphoric acid (don't ask why) on rusty steel and galvanised plate.
You can see how phoshoric removes rust (2 areas bottom right) but look at what happened to the concrete (mostly made of calcium compounds) where it spilled.
There was similar spillage with the sulphuric acid to the left but the result was soluable and washed away.
The marks from the phosphoric acid are still there more than a month later and they don't wash off.
Image

I clean my kettle element with a soft cloth and finish with a toothbrush. Not sure how it would if with phosphoric acid.
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by Aleman » Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:35 pm

Eric wrote:For some time I have thought that too much American theory on liquor for brewing is based upon the 1941 paper by Kohlbach. It apparently (I've read the paper was lost during the war) explained the anomaly of high mash pH with very low alkaline water was due to the equivalent lack of calcium salts in that water. He derived a formula to predicted pH change dependent upon variation of alkalinity and calcium salts. While all this was good stuff, I'm not convinced that the experience detailed in that paper is simply transferable to all, those made in a different way with different ingredients and different water.
=D> =D> =D> =D>

I actually think that what has been extrapolated from Kohlbachs ONE paper is way outside the 'working' range that Kohlbach was working on. It actually happens rather a lot the classic example is hop bittering calculations. They work reasonably well and correctly predict (more or less) the IBU within a small range . . . get outside that range and the predicted IBU is WAY different to the actual

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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by wilfh » Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:36 pm

Which water book are you referring to?
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Re: Starting water treatment

Post by orlando » Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:50 am

wilfh wrote:Which water book are you referring to?
Cheers
Wilf
This one.
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