ph

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DRB

ph

Post by DRB » Wed May 16, 2007 1:28 pm

I phoned the water company to ask what ph the water is around my area and they said it was around the 6 mark,and that thwe water was moderately soft is this pretty good for brewing or rubbish.Also if I were to buy ph strips what numbers should I go for,thanks.

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Jim
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Post by Jim » Wed May 16, 2007 6:05 pm

The initial pH of the water isn't a reliable guide to mash pH; the hardness of the water is a better indicator though.

I also have fairly soft water, and I have a job keeping the mash pH high enough - the opposite of most brewer's problems. My strategy is to use a fairly runny mash (e.g 3 gal of water to 3.7kg of grain) and go easy on the dark malts.
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DRB

Post by DRB » Wed May 30, 2007 9:12 am

How long do you have to wait after doughing in before you can test the mash ph with the strips,and hoe long after you put the crs in.I do 13 lt batches what would you reckon i should put in to start with 1 teaspoon half teaspoon or quarter teaspoon,thanks.

DRB

Post by DRB » Wed May 30, 2007 9:27 am

Do I just dip these strips straight into the mash,or have i got to take a sample out let it cool and then test.

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Wed May 30, 2007 12:09 pm

You have to let the sample cool, temp can affect the ph.

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Post by Doingatun » Wed May 30, 2007 1:27 pm

DRB wrote:Do I just dip these strips straight into the mash,or have i got to take a sample out let it cool and then test.
Found this advice on

http://www.homebrew.com/articles/article09300001.shtml

The best time to take a pH sample is at the beginning of the mash, after mixing the grain and water. Use a spoon or ladle to remove a few tablespoons of liquid. Cool the sample to roughly room temperature, since the high temperatures prevent accurate pH readings. At this point, you should measure the pH with your indicator papers.

Just dip the paper into your sample, and compare the color of the paper to the chart that came with the paper. Once you complete your reading, don't forget to dispose of the sample. The chemicals from the indicator paper will contaminate your sample.

SteveD

Post by SteveD » Wed May 30, 2007 6:07 pm

DRB wrote:How long do you have to wait after doughing in before you can test the mash ph with the strips,and hoe long after you put the crs in.I do 13 lt batches what would you reckon i should put in to start with 1 teaspoon half teaspoon or quarter teaspoon,thanks.
Hold on a sec. Do I have this right? Your mains water PH is 6? So, you have soft, mildly acidic water. Where are you, Scottish peat moors? The thing is, you don't need to add any CRS. CRS is a carbonate reducing solution, used to remove temporary hardness. You don't have any! I think you'll find that if you're at PH 6 to start with, you'll end up somewhere around the right place anyway, if anything add a bit of Calcium sulphate particularly with pale beers. Don't bother with very dark beers, the grist is acidic enough to get the mash down to the low 5's.

To answer your question, it's good brewing water generally and excellent for Bohemian lagers.

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Post by Garth » Wed May 30, 2007 6:37 pm

DRB wrote:Once you complete your reading, don't forget to dispose of the sample. The chemicals from the indicator paper will contaminate your sample.
oh tits, I dipped my ph strip straight into the mash then brought it out onto a plate to read, am I about to poison myself?

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Post by Garth » Wed May 30, 2007 7:00 pm

phew, cheers Uncle DaaB, started to worry there....

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Post by Jim » Wed May 30, 2007 7:58 pm

I dip, and I'm still here! :lol:
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Post by DRB » Wed May 30, 2007 10:31 pm

SteveD Wrote-
[quote]Hold on a sec. Do I have this right? Your mains water PH is 6? So, you have soft, mildly acidic water. Where are you, Scottish peat moors? The thing is, you don't need to add any CRS. CRS is a carbonate reducing solution, used to remove temporary hardness. You don't have any! I think you'll find that if you're at PH 6 to start with, you'll end up somewhere around the right place anyway, if anything add a bit of Calcium sulphate particularly with pale beers. Don't bother with very dark beers, the grist is acidic enough to get the mash down to the low 5's.

To answer your question, it's good brewing water generally and excellent for Bohemian lagers.
_________________
Cheers Steve,I did give it a test first to see what it was like and it came back quite good like you said, I did add a bit though ,not so much that it changed anything to much,so i've got a full bottle of crs and nothing to use it for.
What is and what is the purpose of calsium sulphate.

ColinKeb

Post by ColinKeb » Wed May 30, 2007 10:41 pm

my water is about 9 and its fine for brewing still get a really good extraction , i dipped and left the strip in too long leaving a green blot in the mash. didnt kill me though (obvioulsy) :D

DRB

Post by DRB » Wed May 30, 2007 10:54 pm

[quote]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SteveD Wrote-
[quote]Hold on a sec. Do I have this right? Your mains water PH is 6? So, you have soft, mildly acidic water. Where are you, Scottish peat moors? The thing is, you don't need to add any CRS. CRS is a carbonate reducing solution, used to remove temporary hardness. You don't have any! I think you'll find that if you're at PH 6 to start with, you'll end up somewhere around the right place anyway, if anything add a bit of Calcium sulphate particularly with pale beers. Don't bother with very dark beers, the grist is acidic enough to get the mash down to the low 5's.

To answer your question, it's good brewing water generally and excellent for Bohemian lagers.
_________________
Cheers Steve,I did give it a test first to see what it was like and it came back quite good like you said, I did add a bit though ,not so much that it changed anything to much,so i've got a full bottle of crs and nothing to use it for.
What is and what is the purpose of calsium sulphate.

So just looked up calsium sulphate and it says that it is for lowering ph,I thought crs did that also after reading some of the topics on here,thats why I got it.

SteveD

Post by SteveD » Wed May 30, 2007 11:25 pm

DRB wrote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SteveD Wrote-
Hold on a sec. Do I have this right? Your mains water PH is 6? So, you have soft, mildly acidic water. Where are you, Scottish peat moors? The thing is, you don't need to add any CRS. CRS is a carbonate reducing solution, used to remove temporary hardness. You don't have any! I think you'll find that if you're at PH 6 to start with, you'll end up somewhere around the right place anyway, if anything add a bit of Calcium sulphate particularly with pale beers. Don't bother with very dark beers, the grist is acidic enough to get the mash down to the low 5's.

To answer your question, it's good brewing water generally and excellent for Bohemian lagers.
_________________
Cheers Steve,I did give it a test first to see what it was like and it came back quite good like you said, I did add a bit though ,not so much that it changed anything to much,so i've got a full bottle of crs and nothing to use it for.
What is and what is the purpose of calsium sulphate.

So just looked up calsium sulphate and it says that it is for lowering ph,I thought crs did that also after reading some of the topics on here,thats why I got it.
Right, Calcium suphate is Gypsum. It will lower ph, as will CRS but it does it differently. CRS is a mixture of Sulphuric and Hydrochloric acids. When you add CRS to water containing CaHCO3 - temporary hardness, you get....Calcium Sulphate, Calcium Chloride, and water. The first two salts are very beneficial in the mash. So, instead of adding CRS to the mash in low calcium water, add Gypsum instead, and you get the PH reduction plus the beneficial ions.

Basically shelve the CRS and get some DLS which is Calcium Sulphate (Gypsum), Calcium Chloride, and possibly a couple of other things or just chuck in some straight Gypsum.

DRB

Post by DRB » Wed May 30, 2007 11:42 pm

Thank's Steve.

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