Now this came as a surprise!

[booldawg]

My first stuck fermentation on an AG brew! Every kit I brewed needed assistance to get down to its TG but was feeling that I'd left that part of brewing behind me when I went OG.

Its on 1020 after 10 days. I'd sterilised 40 bottles as well just before checking the SG I was expecting under 1010 as its only 25L at 1049 with an 11g sachet of Safale 04.

[MightyMouth]

What temperature did you mash at? Were there any problems during the mash, maybe you didn't get as many fermentables as usual? I am assuming you aerated well.

[booldawg]

The only thing I did differently was have a go at liquour treatment. As I live in a hard water area I boiled the mash and sparge liquor and added 2 x 5ml spoonfuls of CRS. TBH I think I overdid it as the litmus paper ended up some distance under 5.2 (5.2 being the bottom mark). I'd say the mash temp was slightly up on the usual 67C as I had boiled the mash water and had to wait to it to drop to 67C, may've mashed too hot (sorry, not very scientific)

The fermentation has been fairly cool as I've fermented in a cooler place than usual with no insulation but its been about 18C at the lowest point.

Well the DBE I pitched about 6 hours ago seems to be doing the job, there a nice healthy layer of foaming on the top. I just hope the brew doesnt end up too thin.

[prodigal2]

Have you checked your hydrometer is calibrated correctly, and also in your test jar it may be worth spining your hydrometer, as sometimes CO2 sits under it and causes a false reading.

18C is perfect S04 temps and 67C should have created enough fermentables from your mash.

[MightyMouth]

If your mash temperature was too high that will result in less fermentables as will a ph outside of the optimum range so both working together might account for the stuck fermentation though it might be something as simple as the yeast health so i would try rousing it and if that doesn't work you might consider some Dry Beer |Enzyme though if you use this I would recommend taking frequent gravity readings and as soon as its within an acceptable range stop the fermentation otherwise you will end up with a very dry beer.

[Aleman]

Had that happen on a old style mild of mine last year, ended up being around 3%, great body and taste though, left it alone in the keg an bottled a few back in January. Got some nice comments from a well respected judge/brewer last summer

[booldawg]

Will see how it goes with the DBE, looks like alot of activity now. I dont have a problem with a 1020 TG its just the fact I bottle all my beer and was more worried about over-carbonation; I've lost about 3/4 of a batch of Fixby Gold to that recently!

[MightyMouth]

no doubt the DBE will sort it out although once it starts there's no stopping it.

Can you not add A couple campden tablets or Sodium Bisulfite as they do in wine making to stop fermentation then after fermentation stops force carbonate?

[MightyMouth]

Interesting that you mention maturation as opposed to conditioning, do yeast contribute greatly to this or is it mostly just time? If so I would just keg a beer that has stuck rather than try to kick it off with DBE, I would rather have a slightly sweet weaker beer than one that was overly dry and slightly strong.

[Graham]

The only thing I did differently was have a go at liquour treatment. As I live in a hard water area I boiled the mash and sparge liquor and added 2 x 5ml spoonfuls of CRS.

Whoops!
Either one or the other, not both (boil and CRS), unless you have a good and knowledgeable reason to do so.

However, can't really see why fermentation should stop early. Lack of calcium maybe?