13A/3kw temperature controller?

[Andy]

Cable is only 1 metre long I believe.

[Blackaddler]

A bit on the short side, then.

2m would have been better.

[troublebrewing]

EDITED TO SAY:

We can supply 3m NTCs.

Website shows 2m, so if you want 3m, please tell us at check out.

Thanks.

[rimski]

Looks neat, Rimski - any idea what's in the box? Is there an extra relay?

The box is empty other than the controller, wires and sockets. It's all self assembled

[Andy]

Right, my single channel controller arrived today and yes, the NTC probe lead is 1m in length, going to need a longer one than that.

Nice little bit of kit though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-Aquarium ... 0646027161

UK seller, did take approx 6 days to deliver but that's what his delivery details state so all good.

[Blackaddler]

Right, my single channel controller arrived today and yes, the NTC probe lead is 1m in length, going to need a longer one than that.

Nice little bit of kit though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-Aquarium ... 0646027161

UK seller, did take approx 6 days to deliver but that's what his delivery details state so all good.

That one's only got a 5A relay, not a 20A, like the one Blue Sky mentioned above...

[troublebrewing]

Looks neat, Rimski - any idea what's in the box? Is there an extra relay?

The box is empty other than the controller, wires and sockets. It's all self assembled

Sounds like you should have a bigger relay in there, doesn't it? Have you seen the Maplins one often referred to here?

[Andy]

Right, my single channel controller arrived today and yes, the NTC probe lead is 1m in length, going to need a longer one than that.

Nice little bit of kit though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-Aquarium ... 0646027161

UK seller, did take approx 6 days to deliver but that's what his delivery details state so all good.

That one's only got a 5A relay, not a 20A, like the one Blue Sky mentioned above...

Doh! The 20A unit looks great VFM in that case! I'd already bought an external relay so my piddly little 5A unit will do the job, just some more wiring required

[boingy]

I'd just like to add a note of caution regarding changing the relays. It's likely you will be able to find a higher current relay that will fit the same PCB footprint but that doesn't mean that the rest of the circuitry and components will be up to the job. For example the PCB tracks may be too narrow or the screw terminals may not be rated at the higher current. The guaranteed-to-work option is to use an external relay as Andy is doing.

[rimski]

Does anyone have any Photos of the n24aw all set up I have one now and also have the base just not 100% on wiring

[testtube]

The wiring is very easy.. I hope u have circuit breakers.. And whatever other safety gear u might need!

[Blue Sky]

Further to the discussion of upgrading the current capacity of the STC-1000 (and other Ebay clones) relay, has anybody ever tried using a 250Vac input SSR instead of the (Maplin) mechanical relay?

Any feedback would be appreciated, ta.

[Blue Sky]

Does anyone have any Photos of the n24aw all set up I have one now and also have the base just not 100% on wiring

Have a read through the 'big' thread... but specifically try here... >>CLICK ME<<

[jmc]

Does anyone have any Photos of the n24aw all set up I have one now and also have the base just not 100% on wiring

There's pictures & wiring diagram of my N24AW setup earlier in this thread.
(As always if you are unsure of wiring I'd get it checked before you try it out)

See: This Post

[Kev888]

Further to the discussion of upgrading the current capacity of the STC-1000 (and other Ebay clones) relay, has anybody ever tried using a 250Vac input SSR instead of the (Maplin) mechanical relay?

Not specifically, but I have in the past used the DC input type to switch a 3kw fan heater with a small (mains voltage) thermostat and it worked well. To create the DC input I rectified and divided the mains voltage and added a 12v zener diode for regulation; as I understand it the AC/AC SSRs do exactly the same thing for you, internally, so I can't see why they shouldn't work equally well and without the need for DC irritation.

There are probably pros and cons to the choice really - the HLT temperature change (and therefore switching rate) is hardly rapid, so a chunky mechanical relay can cope well enough and doesn't generate any significant heat so can be crammed into a small plastic box - and people can visually see how it works, if these things are a bit unfamiliar to them. However being solid state and having zero crossing the SSR would be better in some ways too, if you could sort a heatsink (or suitable metal case) then you could end up with a superior product.

The main factor for me in the past has always been price; there always seem to be loads of mechanical relays lying around places or surplus etc. that are virtually free. But if you buy them new, it looks like the SSRs (or at least those from hong kong) are now competing on price, if you escape any import costs anyway

(EDIT: In theory an SSR can blow faster than a normal fuse if for instance the element failed closed circuit, whereas a mechanical relay could potentially weather it long enough for the fuse to blow and so protect it, but its all so unpredictable if that happens that I'm not sure I'd want to base any decisions on that, and they're both cheap enough to replace without too much £pain).

Cheers
Kev