Wherry Worry

[Paul_S]

Perhaps there are more unfermentables in these kits than there should be??
I dont get past the 1.010 mark even when i do extract brews(always using John Bull LME)!

Does anybody know an analytical chemist who could have a look at the ratio of fermentable v unfermantable in this wort? I presume Muntons have that info to hand so if anybody has a contact there maybe they will give us the "horses mouth" on the subject?

Personally I don't want a beer fermenting right out as it gets too thin, but I don't want to sup syrup either.

[Paul_S]

I have no idea why this is required- only thing I can think of is not enough aeration of the wort prior to pitching the yeast, which understand is very important. Even though I drop the water in from height from one fermentor to the other and stir, think this may not be enough. To eliminate this possability I've got myself a plasterers paddle that's going in the cordless drill, as per others use. Nextime I'm going to give it a damn good thrashing!.......

Russ

This is exactly what the traditional-style commercial breweries do - periodic rousing of the wort mixes in oxygen (ok, we all know that fermentation to produce alcohol is an anaerobic process but the yeast has to survive bathing in it's own waste too) and commercial yeast tends to be very good at flocculating so needs to be put back into suspension.

[Paul_S]

I have a paddle and aerate like hell for 5 mins, thowing up a lovely froth in the process and generating bubbles of air through the wort.

I've NEVER had a fermetation stick before in almost 20 years (my first brew was aged 14, Mum went ballistic) and given the claims that Muntons use their GOLD yeast in the Top of the range kits, I was very very disappointed.

Well. Now I KNOW. Thanks for the advice from this group!

The Midas touch would have been tasty as well. I can taste the potential in every sip, but it's just too sweet given the price I paid. The box says it ferments down to 1014 or less (bottle at this gravity)

I would have been happy with 1016, but I ended up at 1022, with the beer starting to clear after 16 days.

Dave.

Try this Danstar Nottingham ale yeast......

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/item1352.htm

My last full-mash fermented & cleared beautifully with this yeast, it's now chewing its way through a Wherry kit at a good rate of knots.

[fivetide]

Yes, I couldn't have done more to kickstart the Great Eastern to be honest, as you can read in my first post on that thread.

However, it did finally get down to 1014 after a lengthy primary and another week or so in secondary and a lot of fuss and bother

My Wherry, however, was a pain to ferment and tastes just great, so worth persisting with. Maybe.

[Chris The Fish]

My Wherry, however, was a pain to ferment and tastes just great, so worth persisting with. Maybe.

Same here, i had to repitch with Nottingham to get it going from 1018, however it only went a few points lower to 1014, i kegged it anyhow and after only 3 weeks it was a great pint.

[Paul_S]

I can confirm that my Wherry kit, started on Saturday afternoon, is down to 1010 and starting to clear - thanks Danstar Nottingham yeast

[oxford brewer]

I can confirm that my Wherry kit, started on Saturday afternoon, is down to 1010 and starting to clear - thanks Danstar Nottingham yeast

Thats nice and quick, should settle out pretty well with the Nottingham yeast....proof that these kits do work(sometimes ).
Are you kegging or bottling the Wherry Paul_S?

[Paul_S]

I can confirm that my Wherry kit, started on Saturday afternoon, is down to 1010 and starting to clear - thanks Danstar Nottingham yeast

Thats nice and quick, should settle out pretty well with the Nottingham yeast....proof that these kits do work(sometimes ).
Are you kegging or bottling the Wherry Paul_S?

It'll live in barrel as nature intended! I find that high CO2 levels give me indigestion so I like to get enough primings in to keep it dispensing without adding CO2 from cylinder or having to crack the seal to admit air.