Budget small kegging set-up revisited

[mChavez]

A while ago I've posted my first thread here looking for some advice on a budget kegging set-up that does not involve big cornies:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59506&p=625889&hilit=chavez#p625889

There were some very interesting ideas, but I ended up deciding against minikegs as too many people advise not to use them as they can only be refilled a limited amount of times.
I don't have enough space for a kegerator yet, but I don't want to give up on the minikegging idea as I want to have 5-6L kegs that I can put into a fridge and put some beer on tap.

Now, how about converting some of these food-grade PET cans
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-5-x-5-Lit ... 2a2ad8e04a

to use a tapping system as described here:
http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtop ... 76#p894776

or to cut in a tap just above the sediment level:
http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.u ... uick-serve

and cut in a tyre valve as suggested by JMC?

The pet cans should last forever if they are cleaned with something like oxyclean and they should be able to hold a lot of pressure.

Am I missing some big problems here or is this project worth investing a weekend in it?

PS what if instead of the 5L cans I was to use something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-10L-LITRE ... 1e70e8a9cc
Say, cut in a tyre valve and a tap?
Imagine taking one of these babies filled with beer to a party

[wilsoa11111]

sounds like an idea,- guessing this is borrowing from the jerrykeg design?
dont know if force carbing would be possible as they dont look that strong to me (even if they are will need a better than the plastic tap i reckon, maybe the tap and tank connectors used in mash tuns??), but can defo be primed and naturally carbed as the norm

[mChavez]

Oh well, here's to me for reinventing the wheel!

Would a metal jerrycan work?
Should be reasonably airtight considering they are used for petrol, but is the metal ok for storing beer?.

I'll probably go with the plastic design =)

[mChavez]

A few questions about jerrykegs:

1) I bought snap-in valves and they smell of rubber (yeah, I read about it after I ordered them =(( ) - would it be ok to use them or shall I chuck them away and buy bolt-on ones?

2) what size of a hole should I drill for the valve and how do I drill it? Just regular woodwork drill bits?

Thanks for your help!

[jmc]

A few questions about jerrykegs:

1) I bought snap-in valves and they smell of rubber (yeah, I read about it after I ordered them =(( ) - would it be ok to use them or shall I chuck them away and buy bolt-on ones?

2) what size of a hole should I drill for the valve and how do I drill it? Just regular woodwork drill bits?

Thanks for your help!

Some people use snap-in valves, but personally I wouldn't use them as they reek.
I got some and even after a few months buried in some dry oxy they still reeked.

Sorry I can't remember drill-size for snap-in ones I had off-hand.
You may want to check here: Schrader_valve

The SS bolt on valves cost a couple of quid each but they don't smell, they're easy to fit and are a tight fit.
You cant tighten up the snap in ones if hole isn't perfect

For my bolt on ones I used a 10mm drill.
When fitted to plastic barrel I used a sharp dowel drill like one below


They've been in there months now and its really handy to test pressure to see how conditioning is getting on or how much gas you have left in keg.

Example of fitting bolt-on valve in minikeg here: Mini Cask with Tyre Valve Experiment (+pics)

I can't see the exact same ones for sale that I bought from eBay seller Rotherham Motorcycle Tyres (eBay item 221003911234).

Nearest are these
which they say fit 11mm hole

[mChavez]

Thanks!!

So the rubber smell is not going to affect the taste?
I'll try 2 snap-in valves and then upgrade to bolt-on ones.

Another problem that bothers me is that my jerry lids have this papery-plastic "lining" to make ensure better seal. Do you just leave the linign in, or should I take it out and put some tape on the thread to get a better seal?

[jmc]

Thanks!!

So the rubber smell is not going to affect the taste?
I'll try 2 snap-in valves and then upgrade to bolt-on ones.

Another problem that bothers me is that my jerry lids have this papery-plastic "lining" to make ensure better seal. Do you just leave the linign in, or should I take it out and put some tape on the thread to get a better seal?

I never used the snap-in ones so best ask others. I wouldn't use them.

Upgrade: - not sure they'd fit same diameter hole

Floydmeddler is the man to ask about jerrycans.

These valves on ebay seem to be SS and look similar to ones I got.

[mChavez]

Thank you!

[super_simian]

I'm not sure if the un-modified product is as available in the UK as it is here, but these jiggers look the goods. I haven't done it yet, but they seem cool. You could even cut in a tap low down, blank off the top plate and use them like a party keg/cask type of deal?

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/21201 ... arty-kegs/

[mChavez]

Nice link super_simian!

I've tried building a jerry keg, however, the tap leaks no matter how tight I screw it in or which side I put the washer on.
I used plastic taps from floy'd post.
The valve is doing great though - I pumped some air into the keg and it seems to hold the pressure (just leaks faster from around the tap).


Any suggestions on how to fix it?

[jmc]

Nice link super_simian!

I've tried building a jerry keg, however, the tap leaks no matter how tight I screw it in or which side I put the washer on.
I used plastic taps from floy'd post.
The valve is doing great though - I pumped some air into the keg and it seems to hold the pressure (just leaks faster from around the tap).


Any suggestions on how to fix it?

As mentioned before, Floydmeddler is the man to ask about jerrycans.
Why now post on his topic The 25L Co2 Injected JerryKeg is Born! Cheap too!.

You'll probably be read by more people that have sorted out problem you have.

Maybe post a pic of tap too as it help others understand where its leaking from.