First all grain. Summer ale

[j4c]

What was your recipie? ...do you know what you were aiming for ?
The aim of today should be to primarily to get beer, work out your equipment, and learn .I've done a lot of AG brews up to 2000l and yesterday I had a fight with new equipment..
It rarely goes entirely to plan.

Recipe was.
3.4 kg pale malt
300g crystal malt.
20g ek Golding's 70 min
13g progress 70 min
15g ek Golding's 30 min
9g progress 30 min
15g ek Golding's 1 min
I have no idea what the target was.
I used 34 litres of water to get 23 litres which I managed.
So boil off dead space etc worked out well.
My sparge temp was low as I didn't have a way of maintaining the temp whilst sparging so it dropped.

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[BenB]

Are they the 1500w elements? If so you need to remove the little boil dry pin, then the elements won't cut out. Same happened to me on my first brew... Its like the one shown here

but without the extra bits

Easy way to tell if the elements are knackered are fill the boiler with water and see if they work again.... Reckon they will which will show it's a thermal cut-out.

[j4c]

Are they the 1500w elements? If so you need to remove the little boil dry pin, then the elements won't cut out. Same happened to me on my first brew... Its like the one shown here

but without the extra bits

Easy way to tell if the elements are knackered are fill the boiler with water and see if they work again.... Reckon they will which will show it's a thermal cut-out.

Thanks Ben.
I got the elements off eBay.
I don't think the have a cut off.
I did have a trial boil and worked fine.
I think it's down to cheapness from China. Serves me right really.
I do have two from kettles that I intend to put in my HLT.
Will need to modify them like your picture.

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[j4c]

Well done!

How do I predict the alcohol %

You compare the Original Gravity with the Final Gravity.

You would normally expect the beer to drop to a "quarter" of the original points when fermentation is finished.

e.g with an OG of 1040 you would expect the FG to be about 1010. 40/4 = 10.

So if you get a FG of 1010 expect about 4% ABV.

There are plenty of calculators online.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/

Thankyou

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[Mr Squiffy]

The whole process reminded me of waiting for my wife to give birth. Lol

Love that of course giving birth is far easier

[j4c]

Lol.


Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[BenB]

99% sure they're the same ones I used and they do have a cut-off. The reason wort is a problem is it boils hotter than water due to the sugars...... I wouldn't bin then just yet they're good elements. Unlike the electrim one I've got which despite being "stainless" went down to bare copper when I left it soaking in starsan.....

[j4c]

99% sure they're the same ones I used and they do have a cut-off. The reason wort is a problem is it boils hotter than water due to the sugars...... I wouldn't bin then just yet they're good elements. Unlike the electrim one I've got which despite being "stainless" went down to bare copper when I left it soaking in starsan.....

Thanks Ben.
I will take it out tomorrow and have a better look.
I'm all ready looking for a recipe for my next one.
Want to do a bath ales gem clone to impress my brother

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[j4c]

is that the cut out behind the plate. Or is it the metal plate itself

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[BenB]

Thats the fella! Its the white pin
I suspect removing the disc and pin would be fine, I just always removed the pin and left the disc. I think the only function of the bimetallic disc is to activate the pin though so can likely both be removed. I just for some random reason leave the disc in place and it works fine so have kept to tradition when using the elements in other projects (sous vide water baths etc).

[j4c]

Thats the fella! Its the white pin
I suspect removing the disc and pin would be fine, I just always removed the pin and left the disc. I think the only function of the bimetallic disc is to activate the pin though so can likely both be removed. I just for some random reason leave the disc in place and it works fine so have kept to tradition when using the elements in other projects (sous vide water baths etc).

OK. I will get the bugger off then.
Thanks for all the help


Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk

[Pinto]

First brewdays are always a pain so many variables and things to learn. This weekend passed, I made my first AG for a while on a new BIAB kit I made due to moving into a flat (no room for my old 3V kit) and it was just like the first brew again - if it could go wrong, it did ! I battled on tho and ended up with a beer 6 points under target FG but 1.5L over volume (too much sparge water and too weak a boil being the problem there)- the yeast didnt care tho and it's bubbling away nicely in the fermentation chamber as we speak

Lessons were learned tho, and Im modifying the kit and the figures I use in the brew software to suit the info I have - brew day No2 will be easier - and so will yours.

Congrats on your first brew - get No 2 in as soon as possible !

Oh - I noticed you had trouble hitting your strike temp - I'll pass on a tip I was given when I had the same problem. Brewing calcs often advise on the temp of mash water but they are often wrong - the rule of thumb I was given was to make sure your water is 10 degrees hotter than your target mash temp (eg : 66 deg mash, use 76 deg strike water) - using this I hit the temp 95% of the time spot on.

[deanrpwaacs]

First brewdays are always a pain so many variables and things to learn. This weekend passed, I made my first AG for a while on a new BIAB kit I made due to moving into a flat (no room for my old 3V kit) and it was just like the first brew again - if it could go wrong, it did ! I battled on tho and ended up with a beer 6 points under target FG but 1.5L over volume (too much sparge water and too weak a boil being the problem there)- the yeast didnt care tho and it's bubbling away nicely in the fermentation chamber as we speak

Lessons were learned tho, and Im modifying the kit and the figures I use in the brew software to suit the info I have - brew day No2 will be easier - and so will yours.

Congrats on your first brew - get No 2 in as soon as possible !

Oh - I noticed you had trouble hitting your strike temp - I'll pass on a tip I was given when I had the same problem. Brewing calcs often advise on the temp of mash water but they are often wrong - the rule of thumb I was given was to make sure your water is 10 degrees hotter than your target mash temp (eg : 66 deg mash, use 76 deg strike water) - using this I hit the temp 95% of the time spot on.

+1 to that . Add some boiling water to the mash tun and shut the lid for ten mins to pre warm it . Mash in higher than expected as you can bring it down to temp with a dash of cold water from the sparge water . Its easier to bring it down than get it up if you ask me .

[j4c]

Thanks pinto and dean.
I'm definitely dreaming of my next brew.
My work mate thinks I'm odd as I keep wondering what my beers up to.
Think I need a web cam in with it.
Will definitely heat the mash tun up b4 and strike at 76c
Cheers

Sent from my Vodafone 890N using Tapatalk