Prebuilt hlt controller

[RobP]

Yeah. I had to buy PID, SSR, cooling block, project box, plugs, sockets, cable, crimping tool set and something to cut holes in the box. None of that expensive individually but it adds up. Would have been cheaper to buy a ready made product, if there was one.

[Fil]

with a 2kw element i would be happy as larry using a 10a device such as an off the shelf inkbird solution or icecream container/stc1000 type controller.
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electr ... lator.html

I had to check it and with 245v (what it peaks at here) your looking at 8-9a draw with a 2kw element. (power factor is 1 or 9.9 with an electrical heating element afaik)


tho if concerned you can source a sub £10 ebay china stc1000 sized on way controller with a 30a relay fitted
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Display-T ... Sw-7RVGhhM

[sbond10]

Would the stc 1000 be an alternative to a pid then fil ?

Im weighing up options and yes the 10amp inkbird 308 could be the easist

[RobP]

For your purposes the stc-1000 option would be better than the PID option. If only because the thermostat would just turn the electricity on or off. With a PID and SSR the electrical current to the element is regulated, so some, possibly a tenth, of the current goes to the element while the rest is dissipated as heat. It's a wasteful way of doing things if you don't need that level of of control. PIDs are smart devices that learn how your equipment functions, the idea is they don't allow parameters to be overshot. eg as the set temperature gets closer they reduce power to the element.

[themadhippy]

With a PID and SSR the electrical current to the element is regulated, so some, possibly a tenth, of the current goes to the element while the rest is dissipated as heat.

unless your using an obscure type of pid set up that aint how they work. The load is switched on and off at certain points of the mains cycle,in your example the ssr will be on for 10% of mains cycle and off for the remaining 90% .

[RobP]

With a PID and SSR the electrical current to the element is regulated, so some, possibly a tenth, of the current goes to the element while the rest is dissipated as heat.

unless your using an obscure type of pid set up that aint how they work. The load is switched on and off at certain points of the mains cycle,in your example the ssr will be on for 10% of mains cycle and off for the remaining 90% .

So it's the SSR switching on and off lots that generates all the heat? Makes more sense.

[Fil]

Imho a pid controller is a bit of overkill for the job in hand, (although i have got a pid myself.. I learnt what they actually are post the midnight impulse purchase..) And what many will forget to tell you is that any reading up on pids you do before buying one is a fraction of the homework you can set yourself once its in your hands.. you can start with the PDF found with the google search term 'Auber pid manual pdf'

theoretically a pid if tuned correctly should heat your hlt to strike and sparge temps in the most energy efficient manner as it should never overheat.
a simpler on/off controller wont be quite so efficient and may add 2-6p? to the cost of the brew due to less efficient heating up but will get you to both strike and sparge temps and wont involve any homework. fwiw i still need to refer to the original and now tatty instruction sheet whenever i use my sestos pid And more often than not will also refer to one of the easier to comprehend pdfs i have downloaded too.

There is a Huge possible problem with temp controlled HLT heat up simple on/pff or Pid, and that is if left stood at temp for any length of time the liquid can 'stratify' out into layers of different temp, spot on target where the probe sits but depending on how long sat both substantially cooler and warmer below and above that point. Very Easily sorted with a good stir/mix in before strike or sparge liquor is drawn, but if omitted can lead to unexpected temperatures in the tun resulting in quickly boiling a few litres in the kettle and a thinner mash consistency than planned for.
its the reason behind folk fitting recirc pumps to HLTs. a big spoon/paddle works just as well as long as you remember tho.

[sbond10]

Well looks like the easier solution is the st1000. Ive also noticed the element im getting is 1600watts (cheapo ebay chinese job )
So a simple 10amp one would suffice i think noticed ink bird do one with an enclosure for about 14 quid

Can sum one put up the specs im looking for