Background:
I prefer hoppy ales
I BIAB
I treat my water
I use my own home-grown hops (so unsure of AA content)
I no-chill (don't even ask!)
I transfer the wort to a HDPE container a.s.a.p. at the end of the boil to help sterilise it
I try and leave the worst of the dregs in the pan but most is still in suspension so goes into the container
I try and leave the dregs in the container when subsequently transferring the wort to the fermenter
I use predominantly captured yeast (mainly PJ)
I've just started trsferring to secondary whilst a couple of points off target because.........
.........I've just changed hop addition emphasis to dry hopping in the secondary and read this is what to do (?)
I dry hop for 3 days
I've subsequently just started cold crashing to drop out what I can
I bottle - carbonating with dextrose
Whilst I'm getting there slowly but surely in terms of the taste/aroma I'd like to try and improve the clarity if possible.
Read a lot about adding finings etc but, given the above, I'm concerned about losing too much yeast for bottle carbonation.
Is this an issue?
Oh, forgot to mention, I drink too much and make too little so any additions to timescale will be difficult
Sufficient yeast with bottle carbonation
Re: Sufficient yeast with bottle carbonation
Do you use copper finings? It's worth a try if you don't as it will reduce crap carried over from the boil to the fermenter.
Dry hopping can increase haze, but shouldn't affect flavour (so in my book nothing to worry about).
Not chilling is a bad thing if you're worried about hazes.
Dry hopping can increase haze, but shouldn't affect flavour (so in my book nothing to worry about).
Not chilling is a bad thing if you're worried about hazes.
Re: Sufficient yeast with bottle carbonation
That last line sums it all up. If you want to improve your beer take a bit more time and care.
I am sure this is the second time you have posted this question and the first time I said that it is pretty near impossible to end up with not enough yeast to carbonate your beer unless you are able to filter and pasteurise it.
I am sure this is the second time you have posted this question and the first time I said that it is pretty near impossible to end up with not enough yeast to carbonate your beer unless you are able to filter and pasteurise it.
"You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on." Dean Martin
1. Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip
It's better to lose time with friends than to lose friends with time (Portuguese proverb)
Be who you are
Because those that mind don't matter
And those that matter don't mind
1. Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip
It's better to lose time with friends than to lose friends with time (Portuguese proverb)
Be who you are
Because those that mind don't matter
And those that matter don't mind
- HTH1975
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Re: Sufficient yeast with bottle carbonation
I used Brausol for the first time recently- it’s just a type of fining to improve clarity.
Got to say, it really works and I’ve got zero chill haze to boot.
Got to say, it really works and I’ve got zero chill haze to boot.
Re: Sufficient yeast with bottle carbonation
When doing any transfers from the FV don't be greedy, or you will bringing over stuff that will either cloud your beer or be kicked up easily on pouring when it does eventually settle to the bottom of the bottle. Leaving that extra litre, which you can account for in the recipe, made a world of difference to me; it wont fix other issues causing haze but can make a big difference.