Beer engine + polypins

A forum to discuss the various ways of getting beer into your glass.
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Dennis King
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Dennis King » Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:27 pm

I have been using this combination for a number of years. I use 20lt ones and one will last me around 2 weeks. Sometimes the last 2 or 3 pints may be a bit flat but still drinkable, if fact taste wise these are quite often the nicest pints.

Robwalkeragain
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Robwalkeragain » Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:51 pm

Thank you dennis, good to see you again, i couldn’t remember if it was you or oldbloke who i remember having them.

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Trefoyl
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Trefoyl » Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:34 pm

PeeBee wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:38 pm
Trefoyl wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:16 pm
… Very generous. Replacements go for about £60 here in the US.
*!%*~! :shock: . Knowing how much a new one from Angram is, I wont be trying that in the UK.
This guy is the only place to buy Angram in the US, the UK site will not accept orders or ship overseas. Fortunately I have friends in the UK who help me out [-o< =D>
I’m not sure how he can justify some of these prices
https://www.ukbrewing.com/Angram_beer_e ... s_s/51.htm
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Jim
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Jim » Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:38 pm

I tried the polypin/beer engine combo, but found it didn't suit my slow drinking rate. It was OK for a week or so, but then the beer went ultra flat.

The only satisfactory method I've found of using a beer engine is using a cask breather with a container that can be recharged with CO2 between sessions.
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Robwalkeragain
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Robwalkeragain » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:07 pm

Trefoyl wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:34 pm
PeeBee wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:38 pm
Trefoyl wrote:
Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:16 pm
… Very generous. Replacements go for about £60 here in the US.
*!%*~! :shock: . Knowing how much a new one from Angram is, I wont be trying that in the UK.
This guy is the only place to buy Angram in the US, the UK site will not accept orders or ship overseas. Fortunately I have friends in the UK who help me out [-o< =D>
I’m not sure how he can justify some of these prices
https://www.ukbrewing.com/Angram_beer_e ... s_s/51.htm
Jesus. You can buy new here for £110 - they’re clever but not exactly a complex bit of kit!
Hes obviously got a monopoly going there - i am sure all said and done - transport and taxes - you’d still be sub £200 going direct.

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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Robwalkeragain » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:09 pm

Jim wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:38 pm
I tried the polypin/beer engine combo, but found it didn't suit my slow drinking rate. It was OK for a week or so, but then the beer went ultra flat.

The only satisfactory method I've found of using a beer engine is using a cask breather with a container that can be recharged with CO2 between sessions.
Hopefully my 8 pint a week habit will be ok to keep 10L’s in good nick. The point of switching is to avoid co2!

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Jim
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Jim » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:15 pm

Robwalkeragain wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:09 pm
Jim wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:38 pm
I tried the polypin/beer engine combo, but found it didn't suit my slow drinking rate. It was OK for a week or so, but then the beer went ultra flat.

The only satisfactory method I've found of using a beer engine is using a cask breather with a container that can be recharged with CO2 between sessions.
Hopefully my 8 pint a week habit will be ok to keep 10L’s in good nick. The point of switching is to avoid co2!
Yeah, I think you should be OK with that. :)
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Robwalkeragain
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Robwalkeragain » Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:23 pm

Jim wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:15 pm
Robwalkeragain wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:09 pm
Jim wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:38 pm
I tried the polypin/beer engine combo, but found it didn't suit my slow drinking rate. It was OK for a week or so, but then the beer went ultra flat.

The only satisfactory method I've found of using a beer engine is using a cask breather with a container that can be recharged with CO2 between sessions.
Hopefully my 8 pint a week habit will be ok to keep 10L’s in good nick. The point of switching is to avoid co2!
Yeah, I think you should be OK with that. :)
Great! Either that or it’s time to find a good 2.5% recipe! Haha

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PeeBee
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by PeeBee » Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:17 pm

Robwalkeragain wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:23 pm
… Great! Either that or it’s time to find a good 2.5% recipe! Haha
Oddly enough I've got a 2.5% recipe on the go at the moment! Not showing a lot of signs of life though (after 48 hours - entire pack of S-04 in it, I only meant to put 1/2 pack in but I'm panicking. It won't be going on handpump (if it does get on with the fermentation bit). It is only a test brew trying some new techniques before I apply them to the "proper stuff" (0.5% ABV!). Tomorrow I brew something that will go on handpump (5.5% ABV … ah, that's better).

But the real reason I chip in is to wave this flag again: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwzEv ... NPdmV1bWc . It's a bit dismissive of breathers (especially if using Corny kegs) and doesn't have polypins as the solution. But it does mention polypins and overall the article might suggest ways how polypins could be used to reach the same goal (will require engaging some creative thinking to apply it to polypins though).
Cask-conditioned style ale out of a keg/Cornie (the "treatise"): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzEv5 ... rDKRMjcO1g
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by clarets7 » Thu Jan 24, 2019 8:27 pm

Just about to connect my new beer engine to a polypin this weekend - do I have to vent the polypin in the same way as you would a cask? It's been sat at about 12C for the last week and is still holding a good pressure. Should I vent it for a few hours then reseal and put into position to settle?
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PeeBee
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by PeeBee » Thu Jan 24, 2019 9:23 pm

clarets7 wrote:
Thu Jan 24, 2019 8:27 pm
Just about to connect my new beer engine to a polypin this weekend - do I have to vent the polypin in the same way as you would a cask? It's been sat at about 12C for the last week and is still holding a good pressure. Should I vent it for a few hours then reseal and put into position to settle?
If you read my article linked above you'll figure venting should leave the beer with enough CO2 dissolved that could be accounted for by keeping it at about 2PSI. But, it also stresses I don't think a lot of Publicans bother with venting well, or even venting at all. So given that a polypin will burst if it has loads of pressure, and your polypin obviously hasn't burst, I wouldn't bother venting either.

Not venting might mean you serve it initially at possibly "not optimum", but keep serving and it will come in "optimum" after a bit. Eventually it will become less than "optimum" any way (too little CO2) so you'll not miss anything.

Unless you're going to drink it all in a couple of days, in which case vent it!
Cask-conditioned style ale out of a keg/Cornie (the "treatise"): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzEv5 ... rDKRMjcO1g
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Robwalkeragain » Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:53 am

I would think you would want to retain as much protective co2 as possible without disturbing the sediment, so a little trial and error, as i doubt anyone is actualy aiming for a flat pint.
Can i ask how you connected everything up? What width line, what line attaches to poly pins easily, any non return valves etc? More than one way to skin a cat with this so I’m interested to hear what others have done.

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PeeBee
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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by PeeBee » Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:48 am

Robwalkeragain wrote:
Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:53 am

Can i ask how you connected everything up? What width line, what line attaches to poly pins easily, any non return valves etc? More than one way to skin a cat with this so I’m interested to hear what others have done.
You don't use "non-return valves" although they do get called that or "check-valves" in error. They are "demand valves". You especially need one if your polypin over-pressures or gets put higher than the pump. Otherwise all your beer will simply pour through the pump on to the floor.

I have actually used a real "non-return valve". But you must rely on "cracking pressure" to keep the beer in the cask/polypin and the "cracking pressure" of the non-return valve might not be what you want.
Cask-conditioned style ale out of a keg/Cornie (the "treatise"): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzEv5 ... rDKRMjcO1g
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by CaptAwol » Fri Jan 25, 2019 4:36 pm

I have successfully used a beer engine with polypins for years, there are different types of bags and with the right ones beer will last for month's. The ones I get are from 'Jigsaw baginbox' they are double skinned and for once only use, I keep them in a cool box so don't need to buy the cardboard box. The more you buy the cheaper they are, I usually buy 100 a time, you will also some vitop connectors to connect lines to it. I use the fastferment and transfering is simple with no worries about air coming into contact with the beer. I consider the cost of a bag worth it without all the hassles.

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Re: Beer engine + polypins

Post by Lanky94 » Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:36 pm

CaptAwol wrote:
Fri Jan 25, 2019 4:36 pm
I have successfully used a beer engine with polypins for years, there are different types of bags and with the right ones beer will last for month's. The ones I get are from 'Jigsaw baginbox' they are double skinned and for once only use, I keep them in a cool box so don't need to buy the cardboard box. The more you buy the cheaper they are, I usually buy 100 a time, you will also some vitop connectors to connect lines to it. I use the fastferment and transfering is simple with no worries about air coming into contact with the beer. I consider the cost of a bag worth it without all the hassles.
I have just googled these........that's my next acquisition! Thank you. Are they easy to sterilise? I would imagine the 10 litre is a good size?

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