It’s that super tight head keeping it in.
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Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
Re: Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
Sabro Single Hop NEIPA 25/02/20 CLICK ME to monitor progress with Brewfather & iSpindel
Re: Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
"On its' side", looks perfectly the right way up to me.
… hang on, what day is it? Ah …
(Can someone help me off the floor please?)
Cask-conditioned style ale out of a keg/Cornie (the "treatise"): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzEv5 ... rDKRMjcO1g
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing
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Re: Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
Polypins are great because of the time saved instead of bottling, but I always felt the few litres I did bottle because I always brewed 23 litres tasted better than that from the polypin. As you're probably aware, the smaller the quantity, the quicker it comes into condition. Anyway, my set up is as short a piece of tubing as possible off the dispense nipple of the engine; then a John Guest 'Y' piece with two valves. Then as long a piece of hose as you need to get to your cool box containing the polypin. It goes through the drain in the box and fits onto the tap on the polypin. There may be a small hole in the body of the tap (I think to allow air in, as liquid flows out). Put a piece of tape over it. A freezer pack on top of the polypin where the tap is cools the beer to cellar temperature.
Attached to the spare valve on the 'Y' piece, a piece of hose long enough to get to the bottom of a 5 litre water bottle. This allows you to turn off the beer, then flush the line through between sessions.
It was pretty successful as long as you turned the tap of the polypin off, but you still need to get through the beer in under a week as polypins are permeable. Which is a shame, because they're ideal for serving beer via a handpump.
Attached to the spare valve on the 'Y' piece, a piece of hose long enough to get to the bottom of a 5 litre water bottle. This allows you to turn off the beer, then flush the line through between sessions.
It was pretty successful as long as you turned the tap of the polypin off, but you still need to get through the beer in under a week as polypins are permeable. Which is a shame, because they're ideal for serving beer via a handpump.
Re: Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
Demand valves seems like a good idea, especially when pumping from a keg. Rather bulky though, and my setup is really tight. Does any of you know how the demand valves work?
Re: Everything beer engine, polypins, cask and questions
They are bulky because the tiny differences in pressure needs a large diaphragm to detect. Look up workings on Internet; this may give you a diving demand valve but they work the same (the big difference being gas is compressible and liquid isn't but transmits pressure from elsewhere, like from the keg in the case of beer!).
Cask-conditioned style ale out of a keg/Cornie (the "treatise"): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwzEv5 ... rDKRMjcO1g
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing
Water report demystified (the "Defuddler"; removes the nonsense!): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing