Red x smash

[brewpete]

Sorry phone went mental gonna use pressure transfer and a line of 3 bouncer filters have a racking arm on the fermenter as well

[brewpete]

Using hop spiders and have a racking arm on. The fermenter also gonna use 3 bouncer Mac daddy's with all 3 filters available

[Rhodesy]

I have made a few 100% brews with this, it is very malty so if you want that character go for it. I used 200g+ hops on a normal 21L batch which worked well but did have some malt character.

What OG are you aiming for? They recommend using Pilsner malt in higher gravity brews. If you are aiming for 1.048 then that is bang on as it is designed for 12 plato wort

[brewpete]

Yep that's what am after perfect session beer strength

[TheSumOfAllBeers]

Using hop spiders and have a racking arm on. The fermenter also gonna use 3 bouncer Mac daddy's with all 3 filters available

In your brew length you are looking at having around ~10 L of hot break. The hop spiders will take care of the hop material, but you are still left with all that hot break that you really dont want to be fermenting on. You might have some success recirculating the boiling wort into another hop spider (but its not a problem free approach), but I dont think the mac daddys will be enough, unless you like changing them every 5 minutes.

I am not putting a downer on your choice of product, as I think you are damn close to having a great brew kit, that is elegant on space requirements (my second fermenter would be one of those brew builder flat bottom pot conversions if the kids didnt suck every penny out of me).

But I think you will need a creative solution to deal with the kettle trub. All trub elimination strategies involve leaving the hot break behind in the kettle (the Brew/Ferment in a Conical is the only exception - where you jettison the HB through the dump valve - but thats not an option you can pursue here).

The simplest solution here is to transfer the hot ~80C wort into other vessels, leaving the hot break behind. Then just hose out the pot, and transfer the (still hot) wort back into it. But that can be messy, and there is a safety issue too.

[brewpete]

What about recirculating the wort though a smaller biab sy 100l what would only go to the top third of the pot ??

[TheSumOfAllBeers]

What about recirculating the wort though a smaller biab sy 100l what would only go to the top third of the pot ??

i have done something like that before. The problem is that recirculating into the top third of the pot, the 'clear' wort doesnt stay there and rapidly mixes with the rest of the wort that you are trying to clear.

So you would probably have to recirculate the entire wort several times over, probably in excess of 5-10 times in order to achieve the trub elimination that 'leave behind in the kettle' gets you. You will basically be flow rate limited by your pump, and the bore of your racking valve.

Even being optimistic, a meaty pump like the riptide will do 28-30L per minute. So it will take 6-7 minutes to recirculate your wort once only, and you will need to recirc the entire volume several times over. If you use a spare hop sock/BIAB bag to trap the hot break, you will find that it will gum up and drain slower than you fill it if it is immersed in liquor, and if you hoist it you are creating an environment that is ripe for Hot Side Aeration. (I ignore HSA in general, but in this case you are aerating your entire wort very efficiently).

With a good pump, you might get some success with a combination of multiple filtering processes, but dont recirculate back into your hop spider, use a dedicated hop sock/BIAB bag for collecting the returning wort.

I will say its worth a go doing full wort recirculation, if you have a high flow rate pump, and the returning 'clearer' wort cannot mix evenly with the wort still full of break material. I would probably want a 2 stage filter (an underback or hop back would be great for this), and you have to do it with hot wort before the break material sinks, so you cant use the bouncer/mac daddies (they are not rated for boiling wort).

If you havent already picked one, you are probably gravitating to some kind of pump. To make your single vessel filtration system work, you will need one with a lot of grunt, that can run long and hot. The cheap brewpump 3000s or whatever are good (I own one) but they dont have the flow rate to do what you want to do.

[brewpete]

What about adding gelatin building the 50m copper chiller putting all the the coils at the bottom wait until it's down it pitching temp then just draw 10 liters off the bottom ?

[TheSumOfAllBeers]

What about adding gelatin building the 50m copper chiller putting all the the coils at the bottom wait until it's down it pitching temp then just draw 10 liters off the bottom ?

the boil will denature the gelatin.

However in principle, if you have a way of suctioning the hot break preferentially from the bottom of the vessel, then thats a valid approach. Leave the break material settle first, then get a wide bore siphon going (stainless steel & silicone only) into another vessel. Then use it like a vaccuum to suck up the hot break. You can then filter that material seperately and add it back in.

You can use that trick in combination with the other suggestions.

The goal isnt to get bright wort this way - you just want to get rid of a decent chunk of the hot break (removing 60-70% is a good target to aim for), but your siphon vacuum will be impeded by the fact you cant see what you are doing.

Its possible that you could reverse engineer a false bottom to do this job:
https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/12-domed- ... ottom.html

connect silicone to the 3/8" 1/2" hose tail and drop the false bottom into the vessel. if you make some adjustments to it, so that wort can only get under it from the edges between the FB and the kettle wall, then your siphon will suck up hot break in preference to clear wort.

Iin fact, forget using false bottoms - source a stainless plate thats close to the internal dimensions of your new pot and put a bulk head adapter in it:
https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/herms-bul ... tting.html

^ thats about the best idea I have on this all day, and its potentially relevant to my own setup. You will preferentially suck up hot break. Of course if your elements are raised quite high, then this wont work as well.

[brewpete]

Found a aluminum rotary 205l hand pump on Amazon looks perfect

[TheSumOfAllBeers]

You will need brewing gloves, safety boots and apron too.

[brewpete]

Got some marigold emperor s wellies just apron for full gimp lol

[brewpete]

Finally got the brewday done used 37.5 red x 160g magnum hops for bittering fermented at 40c with 9 packets cross my loof kveik dried yeast it was 1047 og went down to 1012 in 2 days put the maxi chiller on and kegged it with 2ml of ekg hop extract in each keg

[guypettigrew]

Finally got the brewday done used 37.5 red x 160g magnum hops for bittering fermented at 40c with 9 packets cross my loof kveik dried yeast it was 1047 og went down to 1012 in 2 days put the maxi chiller on and kegged it with 2ml of ekg hop extract in each keg

Are you sure it was this temperature?!!!

Guy

[brewpete]

Yep used a 400w silicone belt heater on the200 brewbuilder fermenter with an inkbird temp probe in thermowell