Vossys Mash Tun Project

[Vossy1]

To the rescue once again hey bigster

Thanks. I've just been to the HBS to replace my spinney sparger 7" with the 10"....who says size doesn't matter....apart from the wife :blink:

Well my grasp is getting better, get me a boiler and away we go...yeah

God help me

[Andy]

You could always make a simmerstat controller like so:-

http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... ost&p=2732

I use mine to control the HLT temp, workd well.

Same type of device as used in electric cooker hobs.....

[Vossy1]

Thanks Andy. I never thought heating water could be such a pain in the a**e.

I am seriously thiinking of going to an external (outside the house) propane gas ring....

Either that or I'm going to control the element using a thermostat in the vessel

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searc ... cheID=ukie

[Vossy1]

The voice of reason returns

Many thanks to you DaaB and Peter from the HBS stockport.

Sometimes you can read to much about a subject and you can lose perspective

I'm gonna get me a boiler..... and then....wait for it boys and girls, well you'll find out all about it :pink

[jasonaustin]

Daab, what is a variac? And how does it differ from the power controller I suggested?
I currently use it to throttle back my pump, but had in the back of my mind that should I wish to boil less than usual in my big boiler, where the full power of one of the elements was going to be too much, I could use it there.
I would have thought it ideal if you wished to mash in a bucket with an element, although having never done it, I'm possibly missing something.

[Jim]

QUOTE (jasonaustin @ Aug 7 2006, 06:07 PM) Daab, what is a variac? And how does it differ from the power controller I suggested?
I currently use it to throttle back my pump, but had in the back of my mind that should I wish to boil less than usual in my big boiler, where the full power of one of the elements was going to be too much, I could use it there.
I would have thought it ideal if you wished to mash in a bucket with an element, although having never done it, I'm possibly missing something.
Jason, a http://variac.com/staco_3PN10_20.htm is the electro-mechanical version of your solid state variable power supply.

It's an auto-transformer with a rotary slider, a bit like a potentiometer.

[Road Runner]

QUOTE (Vossy1 @ Aug 7 2006, 11:18 AM) Re reading RR's post he mashes in the cool box tun.

Do you simply load the cool box mash tun to strike temp with water and then add the grains, put the lid on and wait 90 min, then sparging?

What happens if the cool box doesn't maintain temp 

I was thinking of using the boiler to maintain temp  :blink:
Yep, you got it in 1.

Add required amount of mash liquor (hot water) to the cool box/mash tun at a strike heat of @72'c.

Then add the reqired amount of grain as per recipe (all grains dry pre mixed).

Mix well to ensure no dry pockets & even temp distribution. Temp should settle to @ 66'c.

Fit lid. I wrap mine in a 4.5 TOG King Size duvet, coz that's what I have handy for insulation.

Left for 90 mins, I don't lose a single degree in heat.

Then after the 90 mins, fit spinny sparger with sparge water in my boiler at @80'c, open mash tun tap & watch that baby fly.

See Pics below: The pegs are to stop the spinny sparger going into auto rotation.



Oh yes, don't forget to place a collecting container under your mash tun tap though.

[Vossy1]

Great pictures and explanation RR +DaaB, thanks

Thanks to everyone who's helped so far.

Just picked up my copy of Brew Beers like those you buy by Dave Line...some bedtime reading for me

[Bigster]

You wont be able to put it down for at least a week

[Vossy1]

Step 2

See counterflow or immersion chillers topic in equipment section

[Vossy1]

Step 3

Making my boilers

My elements have turned up from exserve so its time to make the boilers. I'm going to use 2 boilers each with 2 elements in.
One boiler will be used for boiling the water, using both elements to heat the water initially until a boil is achieved. Then if I want to keep a rolling boil, for instance, when boiling the wort, I can turn one off.

Items required:-

2 x 33ltr boiling buckets from the Hop Shop @£10.70 each http://www.hopshopuk.com/cgi-bin/browse ... n=78351382
2 x boiler taps from the Hop Shop £8 each.
4 x 2.4 kw elements and 4 x leads from Exserve Ltd £50.37 inc p+p.
(Tel 08705 143 099 parts:- k/s20 element 10 amp 2.4kw, k/s33 kettle lead, 10 amp.

Here are the elements and a 40mm door lock drill adapter



I had to drill 2 40mm holes for the elements. I did this 3" from the base of the bucket



The elements then screwed nice and tight to the bucket and then I added the securing nut to the back of the element on the outside of the bucket.
I drilled a 26mm hole for the tap and repeated the process as for the elements.



Hey presto, 2 boilers. This was the easiest job so far and now I'm ready for my 1st AG brew :pink

EDIT

I have now changed the tap set up to an all metal construction. I did this primarily for a more sturdy set up. I used a 15mm tank plug, compression fittings and a 15-10mm radiator valve. The tubing to the sprge arm fits nicely onto the 10mm pipe

[Andy]

Nice!

Be careful with how you connect those two elements to your domestic supply!


As discussed:-
http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... topic=1382

[Vossy1]

The house is due a rewire....hmmm...timely

[Bigster]

Nice one vossy . Approx £40 for a double barrelled boiler and a little bit of graft.

Thought I hadnt seen a construction job for 2 days from you and was getting worried

[Vossy1]

Worry no more Bigster

Don't panic, there's always the drip tray on the kegerator for your next fix

Brewfit charged me a quid for paying with a debit card when buying the drip tray , it isn't even a credit card.

That's basically all the constructing done , now comes the hard part, making an AG brew