Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Hi all,
For my last 3 brews I've had boiler problems. First one of the 2 Argos kettle elements wouldn't work at the start of the boil, which, on a cold February morning meant over 30 mins to get to boiling. I also wasted 15 minutes replacing fuses and poking with a tester screwdriver.
I cleaned the boiler and was about the take the element apart when it started working again. Next brew same happened with the other element so I took apart and cleaned some white gunk from the inside and all was fine, until yesterday's brew when it happened again. It boils water for MT or lautering no problem, but when heating the wort it stops once the temp gets into the nineties.
So after yesterday's brew I removed the boil-dry protective metal disk. It looked the same as the auto switch-off disk except it's fixed in place with a pin and is smeared with some white gunk. It now works fine boiling water but I'll need to wait until next brew day to see if it solves the problem.
Has anyone else had similar problems? I'm using a 40l plastic bin with 2 x 2200w Argos kettle elements with switch intact.
Cheers,
Steve
For my last 3 brews I've had boiler problems. First one of the 2 Argos kettle elements wouldn't work at the start of the boil, which, on a cold February morning meant over 30 mins to get to boiling. I also wasted 15 minutes replacing fuses and poking with a tester screwdriver.
I cleaned the boiler and was about the take the element apart when it started working again. Next brew same happened with the other element so I took apart and cleaned some white gunk from the inside and all was fine, until yesterday's brew when it happened again. It boils water for MT or lautering no problem, but when heating the wort it stops once the temp gets into the nineties.
So after yesterday's brew I removed the boil-dry protective metal disk. It looked the same as the auto switch-off disk except it's fixed in place with a pin and is smeared with some white gunk. It now works fine boiling water but I'll need to wait until next brew day to see if it solves the problem.
Has anyone else had similar problems? I'm using a 40l plastic bin with 2 x 2200w Argos kettle elements with switch intact.
Cheers,
Steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Yup same issues at times, break it off and bin it. However you've gotta keep the element clean still
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Thanks vanish, good to know it's not my DIY that's the problem.
I noticed one of my elements is getting blackened gunk forming on it, an tips for cleaning it? I normally use washing-up liquid and a brush but it's not shifting enough. Don't want to use descaler as I'd need a pack of it to cover both elements.
I noticed one of my elements is getting blackened gunk forming on it, an tips for cleaning it? I normally use washing-up liquid and a brush but it's not shifting enough. Don't want to use descaler as I'd need a pack of it to cover both elements.
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Ive not had any problems at all with my argos value kettle elements, im using the same 4 (2 in HLT and 2 in Boiler) for over 18 months, i left the boil dry protection disk in place and it works as it should(i occasionaly test they work as they should). I am using optic SS vesels (very thin walls and use the whole of the original silicon seal on the inside of the vessel) though, i wonder if your issues are due to the thickness of your vessel walls not allowing the contacts to be made firmly enough?
Recleaning, when i wash with PBW they come up sparkling!
Steve
Recleaning, when i wash with PBW they come up sparkling!
Steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Contact could be the problem. I'm wary of over-tightening the screws after snapping the head off one and leaving half of it stuck on the element. I too keep the original seal in place so as to keep things as close to the original design as possible. Seemed strange it was happening at exactly the same point in the process - mashing & sparging done (I bring to boil before sparging to raise MT temp from 63 to 66 degrees C) and wort starting to get near to boil.
My local HBS sells PBW, shame I didn't post this earlier as I was in there last week replacing a broken thermometer that I snapped into my mash water. Now on my shopping list for next web order, thanks Steve.
My local HBS sells PBW, shame I didn't post this earlier as I was in there last week replacing a broken thermometer that I snapped into my mash water. Now on my shopping list for next web order, thanks Steve.
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
I find that the the screws come to an abrupt stop so you know not to go any tighter...i fact my elements seem quite loose on the vessel but it never leaks. All my screws are tightened until they stop...see how you get on. (ACTUALY IF YOU ARE FINDING THEM GETTING SLOWLY TIGHTER it may be that your vessel and seal ARE (caps intended here!) probably too thick. The seal off the kettle is designed to fit both sides of the plastic kettle, whereas i have the whole thing on the inside of my stainless vessel(its very thin). You maybe better off just using half the silicon seal to bring the element and backplate closer together.
steve
steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Thanks Steve, I think the gap suggestion is right. I had a brew day yesterday and had the same issue with the other element, but jiggling and pushing the whole switch toward the boiler fixed it for a short while. After I finished brewing I decided to remove the boil dry from the misbehaving element, but one screw refused to budge and I ended up rounding the screw head and resorted to drilling it out. I had a spare element pre-prepared and figured it easier to swap it out (minus boil-dry) and keep the other as a backup spare. I'll be ordering another spare kettle from Argos soon, guess you get what you pay for and can't expect them to last forever...
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Mine (4) have all lasted me 18 months so far, but at £5 you cant complain can ya? The screws are very easy to round though! I bought a couple of spares expecting to loose one or two but ive had no problems touch wood.
Steve
Steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
As for cleaning the elements, I use citric acid (granule/powder) available from any decent homebrew site, and per serving is very cheap if ya buy a fair amount, 4 teaspoons per litre jug of boiling water, and stand my element in it for an hour or so, a little tickle with a nail type brush or green scoury thingy etc and its back to new, seriously, after a days brewday I cant be a$$ed to faff with elements so this to me is simple.
I only use "homebrew site" kettle type elements so cant really answer alot about your cut out issues sorry, but your right, you do get what you pay 4 in this game
Lee
I only use "homebrew site" kettle type elements so cant really answer alot about your cut out issues sorry, but your right, you do get what you pay 4 in this game

Lee
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
After I drilled out the screw head I used a pair of plyers to get the rest of the screw out and there was almost no resistence. I think the head got a little rusted to the washer, and then the wrong sort of phillips finished the job. I've salvaged one screw as a spare which could be worth a fiver sometime soon.EccentricDyslexic wrote:Mine (4) have all lasted me 18 months so far, but at £5 you cant complain can ya? The screws are very easy to round though! I bought a couple of spares expecting to loose one or two but ive had no problems touch wood.
Steve
You didn't say how many brews they've served you through the last 18 months. Mine are the originals from my brewery built Nov 2009 and made it through 20 brew days. I spent aout £80 all in so you're right, can't complain when some of it gives up

Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
I tried a few spoons of lemon juice once but it did nothing after 1/2 hour but I guess a stronger solution would be more effective. There's enough cleaning-up to do without phaffing around with stuff that doesn't work well. I mash in the kitchen and pouring the grains the the MT leaves a coating of powder everywhere, which then gets sticky with water, so I always promise my wife I'll mop the floor after a brewday. It's the last thing I want to do but I keep telling myself the cool pint's only a few minutes away...leewink wrote:As for cleaning the elements, I use citric acid (granule/powder) available from any decent homebrew site, and per serving is very cheap if ya buy a fair amount, 4 teaspoons per litre jug of boiling water, and stand my element in it for an hour or so, a little tickle with a nail type brush or green scoury thingy etc and its back to new, seriously, after a days brewday I cant be a$$ed to faff with elements so this to me is simple.
I only use "homebrew site" kettle type elements so cant really answer alot about your cut out issues sorry, but your right, you do get what you pay 4 in this game
Lee
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
I have a cornie filled with PBW at 2oz per gallon, i reuse it and with no heat or scrubbing the elements just shine! Its fab stuff...even keeps itself clean!
Steve
Steve
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
Yea ya right there is alot of messing around and clean up at the end of a day, BUT, your element should be the one area you spend decent time with, ensuring all gunk is removed from the outside of it back to shiney or its original state.
If you have a termal cutout type element fitted, the dirtier it gets, the worse and unstable it becomes, much the same as them all really.
Everytime I brew mine is taken out of the boiler and cleaned as suggested, although be careful if you use this method, it stings like hell on cuts and nicks.
H+S get out - full safety equipment should be used at all times
Lee
If you have a termal cutout type element fitted, the dirtier it gets, the worse and unstable it becomes, much the same as them all really.
Everytime I brew mine is taken out of the boiler and cleaned as suggested, although be careful if you use this method, it stings like hell on cuts and nicks.
H+S get out - full safety equipment should be used at all times

Lee
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Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
I have just removed my boil dry cut outs. It's no problem to leave them in but you MUST keep the elephants clean. They tend to build crud underneath where you can't see.
John
Drinking/Already drunk........ Trucker's Anti-Freeze (Turbo Cider), Truckers Delight, Night Trucker, Rose wine, Truckers Hitch, Truckers Revenge, Trucker's Lay-by, Trucker's Trailer, Flower Truck, Trucker's Gearshift, Trucker's Horn, Truck Crash, Fixby Gold!
Conditioning... Doing what? Get it down your neck! ........
FV 1............
FV 2............
FV 3............
Next Brews..... Trucker's Jack Knife
Drinking/Already drunk........ Trucker's Anti-Freeze (Turbo Cider), Truckers Delight, Night Trucker, Rose wine, Truckers Hitch, Truckers Revenge, Trucker's Lay-by, Trucker's Trailer, Flower Truck, Trucker's Gearshift, Trucker's Horn, Truck Crash, Fixby Gold!
Conditioning... Doing what? Get it down your neck! ........
FV 1............
FV 2............
FV 3............
Next Brews..... Trucker's Jack Knife
Re: Kettle boil-dry protection pain
1kg of citric acid granule ordered from HBS, £8.50 all in. I've a pair of chemical resistent gloves that'll be needed, my hands have got loads of scratches & nicks from DIY this weekend, progress report to follow later this week.