boiler making

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fizzypop boy

boiler making

Post by fizzypop boy » Wed May 31, 2006 7:23 pm

Took another step nearer to ag brewing today.With the fv i got on Ebay i fitted two kettle elements (2750kw )although brand new via my fathers den of all sorts they're old style round connector and after much looking decided bugg$% this and soldered the wires direct to element pins. Now all i need is a temp contol on one of the elements.No leaks and elements working but bit late now so i'll do a test boil with 5 gall of water tomorrow,with fingers crossed. :unsure:

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Wed May 31, 2006 8:46 pm

I agree. I've got a thermostat on mine but I don't use it. Moreover, I've got two elements and I only need one.

Good luck with it!

Bigster

Post by Bigster » Wed May 31, 2006 10:09 pm

good on you pop - how much gear have you got left to get ?

fizzypop boy

Post by fizzypop boy » Thu Jun 01, 2006 2:04 am

Thanks for that boys ,well let me see Bigster...got to make a mash tun including sparger and manifold, copper pipe no probs,certainly not braided pipe eh boys?(wilko coolbox), thats it i think, going to cool down wort by placing in bath for now,oh and a hop bag?i'm short of space so got to keep it minimilistic(all the rage darn souff).Have i missed anything?? <_<

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Sat Aug 19, 2006 10:53 am

I'm going to build myself a second boiler. I'll be using a 33L fermenter bucket and fitting 2 elements.

I read somewhere on here recently, the cheapest way to get kettle elements, is to buy a couple of cheapo kettles for around a fiver each & liberate the elements from them. A little quick research on electrical shops suggests they'll be about 2.2KW each.

My question though: Would these elements not have a cut out on them? My kitchen kettle will auto switch off once boiled, I guess this can be disconnected though.

I know kettles of the olden days would not auto switch off, but they did have a thermal trip if I remember correctly. That once tripped, would reset after around 30 mins or so.

Has anyone yet built a boiler using cheapo elements & can advise if these elements do not trip out?

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:10 am

I thought most kettles used a simple bi-metalic strip placed in the steam vent (usually in the handle) to switch off when boiling points is reached. I have only seen the thermal cutout on more expensive models where it is designed to prevent destruction if the kettle is switched on without any water in it...

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:12 am

This is what I was wondering. I've never had the cause to take one apart, so never seen how they are made or work.

jasonaustin

Post by jasonaustin » Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:40 am

AFAIK safety/boil dry cut-outs are pretty universal in kettle elements (I don't know for sure, but I would guess current H&S rules probably insist upon them).
They can be removed from most elements though - although some elements are easier to dismantle to get at the metallic cut-out strip than others. But you don't necessarily need to. If you keep them clean and bright then they shouldn't cut out during a 90min+ boil.

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Sat Aug 19, 2006 12:11 pm

Thanks for the info.

I'll have to go & look at some in shops to see which ones will serve the purpose best.

Bigster

Post by Bigster » Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:24 pm

I am thinking of converting an old bulging budget barrel in to a HLT aand boosting my boiler with another element.

Two questions

1. I have a tap like this fitted to my barrel which i am converting to a HLT - Does anyone use this tap in their HLT and is it happy with 80c temps ?

Image

2. I intend to get two cheapo tesco kettles for their elements , one for the HLT and one to boost the electrim boiler - what size hole is needed to fit these elements :huh:

Cheers :beer

hairytoes

Post by hairytoes » Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:43 pm

don't know about you guys, but i was in tesco today looking for these & they only had cordless kettles!! so no joy there, the search continues.

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:50 pm

Wilkinsons is where I got my £5 kettle for element scavenging :D


(and I use a nylon tap in my HLT, designed to withstand boiling temps)

Bigster

Post by Bigster » Sat Aug 19, 2006 9:56 pm

wilkos it is then andy - ta

Daab - no back nut on this baby so I guess from what you are saying its good to go

Anyone on hole size needed for wilko element ?

:beer

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Post by Andy » Sat Aug 19, 2006 10:00 pm

Bigster - can't remember the hole size, I took the element out of the kettle and then used a marker to outline the element plate on the fermentation bin. I then used the closest (smaller!) holesaw bit to cut the hole followed by some dremmel action to enlarge slightly.

Road Runner

Post by Road Runner » Sun Aug 20, 2006 7:36 pm

Blimey... How difficult is it to find a kettle these days that isn't cordless???

Today I've been to 2 Tesco's shops, a large Co-Op, Homebase, Currys, 2 Woolies shops, Argos, etc etc. None of which had any plug in corded kettles!!!

I didn't go near any Wilkinsons to check them though yet.

Years ago, if your kettle packed up, you just bought a replacement element, instead of a complete kettle. I might check one of the small old fashioned style electrical/homeware/odss & sodds type shops, such as "Jegs" if you have any in your part of the world. They might be the type of place to just buy the element alone.

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