Hop qualities
If you go for really stupid amounts of hop
see http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7964 for a photo or
http://craftbrewing.org.uk/recipes/doc/ ... htm#item48
for a recipe,
you will find that after a couple of years the bitterness subsides leaving a refined and unique hop flavour.
see http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7964 for a photo or
http://craftbrewing.org.uk/recipes/doc/ ... htm#item48
for a recipe,
you will find that after a couple of years the bitterness subsides leaving a refined and unique hop flavour.
Our first 1093 porter - only gyle 13 - took 18 months to come on song. As we only made 20 bottles (from the first runnings or a 'normal' batch and tasted it every month, we were a little miffed that we only had three bottles of nectar.
Quaffing ale gains little if anything from age, but above about 1065 it becomes more and more important. But multi-year maturation puts high demands on cleanliness.
Quaffing ale gains little if anything from age, but above about 1065 it becomes more and more important. But multi-year maturation puts high demands on cleanliness.
On Monday I tasted a barley wine that was OG1100 and had been in bottle for 9 years. It was astonishing. Port and christmas cake in a glass. At one year It would have been over sweet, and over bitter, but the ageing mellows all that out and wonderfully complex flavours emerge. Traditional IPA's similarly need ageing to mellow down the excessive bitterness and allow the hop flavours to change into something quite special.David Edge wrote:Our first 1093 porter - only gyle 13 - took 18 months to come on song. As we only made 20 bottles (from the first runnings or a 'normal' batch and tasted it every month, we were a little miffed that we only had three bottles of nectar.
Quaffing ale gains little if anything from age, but above about 1065 it becomes more and more important. But multi-year maturation puts high demands on cleanliness.
For my next Styrian Stunner I'm wanting as much aroma as possible
Ive got 150g of 3% so for 23L am looking at
70g for 60mins 25.3ibu
30g for 15mins 2.6ibu
30g at flame out
20g dry
Would it be better to put the 30g at 15mins in at the flame out and sacrifice the extra 2.6ibu? Also what about forgetting the dry hop and getting that in at flame out as well?
Ive got 150g of 3% so for 23L am looking at
70g for 60mins 25.3ibu
30g for 15mins 2.6ibu
30g at flame out
20g dry
Would it be better to put the 30g at 15mins in at the flame out and sacrifice the extra 2.6ibu? Also what about forgetting the dry hop and getting that in at flame out as well?
Yes it would. Putting them in 15 mins will simply boil off the aroma component, and you are simply not going to notice a 2.6IBU THEORETICAL difference! 5 or 10 IBU maybe, but not 2! I'd bung 60g in at flameout (or wait till you cool to 85-80c), and you can still dry hop 0.5 to 1 ounce. That will work.retourrbx wrote:For my next Styrian Stunner I'm wanting as much aroma as possible
Ive got 150g of 3% so for 23L am looking at
70g for 60mins 25.3ibu
30g for 15mins 2.6ibu
30g at flame out
20g dry
Would it be better to put the 30g at 15mins in at the flame out and sacrifice the extra 2.6ibu? Also what about forgetting the dry hop and getting that in at flame out as well?