Edme German Lager.

Discuss making up beer kits - the simplest way to brew.
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Frontier Psychiatrist

Edme German Lager.

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:38 pm

Hello folks.
I've been reading away in here and have already answered many questions intended to throw in.
I'm not going to use the heaps of pep bottles I've been collecting, instead I'll be buying glass bottles (unless someone has a freebie avenue they'd like to share :wink: ) From what I've read you'll always have sediment in the final bottling process which I understand to be like 'White Label or White Shield'? If anyone has ever poured it?
So I'm going with glass and I'll be getting a heat matt to keep the two bins up to fermentation temperature.

My only question at this point is strength. I normally drink Scandinavian lager at roughly 8.4%. Is this easily 'tweakable' with home kits? Also, from what I've read here, increasing the recommended sugar level in each bottle when bottling up is dangerous?

Thanks in advance.

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:15 pm

Thank you DaaB. Is the 12L you mention condensing the process also making it stronger?

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Wed Feb 13, 2008 6:24 pm

DaaB wrote:
1 can of Edme Pilsner
750g of light spray malt
250g of glucose/brewing sugar

Use both sachets of yeast if you double up to 24L, better still buy a 2 sachets of a clean tasting ale yeast such as nottingham (if you want to use a lager yeast you'll need to set up some sort of temperature control to maintain a range of 9-15 deg c).
Been a while Daab but can I ask for clarification on this subject?

Edme German lager recipe says to add 1kg of fermenting sugar and the sachet of yeast provided.
Taking into account of what we discussed above, I'm understanding I now add 1250gms of brewing sugar? Also, are you saying it would be best to discard the yeast that comes with the kit and use the Nottingham yeast?

Sorry if I come across a dumb ass but I need to get this correct before moving onto other brews. If this one cocks up I'll be going back to buying in!

Thank you again.

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:08 pm

Thank you Daab. You've answered all my questions and thank you for such a quick response.
I've not fired the kit up yet, but I will tomorrow.

One last question. with the Nottingham yeast are the fermenting temperatures the same as standard yeast, or as critical?

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:38 pm

Thank you foe all these tips Daab. I'll be sure to let you know how things turn out.

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:08 pm

If you're reading this DaaB "there's more" :lol:

I'm all geared up and ready to go. I've got everything possible except the answer to 1 question, at what point to I add the extra spray malt to get this higher alcohol volume?

Regards.

FP

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Sat Apr 26, 2008 7:34 pm

Thanks DaaB.
The tin has an expiry date of June 09, so I'll go ahead and make it right now!

Thanks again.

Frontier Psychiatrist

Post by Frontier Psychiatrist » Thu May 08, 2008 4:42 pm

Starship log date......

Well it seems I may have cocked this run up big time...

Any mistakes pointed out welcomed.

1 Daab when you said adding the extra fermentables I took it as adding to the kit complete, ie: on top of the sugar you already add as a 'kit'.

2 I bought one of those plastic heating mats for putting brewing buckets on and could smell it in the garage fermenting away for two days. On the second day I put the thermometer in and it was 32C!! It was switched off never to be turned on again.

3 Each tin got a total of 1.75KG of sugar and the spray malt I didn't know was to be sprinkled, so I had to hook masses of clogged up spray malt no sooner than putting it in.

4 The bubbles ceased to form 4 days ago (today being the 11th day) but would it still bottle if worthy?

So, what a complete mess it seems, but the main question is, should I dump the whole bucket or should I bottle it?

BTW, I've two tins of Brewferms Diablo here ready to rock.

Thanks in advance.

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Post by Barley Water » Thu May 08, 2008 7:04 pm

First of all, let me state that my only motivation for this post is to help the original poster make a sucessful batch of beer. Please do not get the idea that I am talking down to him or putting him down. If you have never done something before, many times you don't even know which questions to ask. Also, I agree with Daab but bear in mind that he was answering specific questions the O.P. was asking.

The biggest problem I see here though is that the style selected for what sounds like a first time brewing attempt is just asking for problems. If I read the threat correctly, the O.P. is trying to make a German lager that would finish out at 8.5%. First of all, lagers are much more difficult to make well than ales. Generally, getting proper attenuation is an issue since typically brewers underpitch (I know, I used the be the poster boy for that problem). Additionally, temperature control is absolutely crucial to making a decent lager. Secondly, a high gravity wort has it's own set of challenges. Higher gravity affects yeast performance such that the problems mentioned above will be magnified. Specifically, even if you control temperature correctly, the yeast will start spitting out all kinds of nasty by-products which will mess up the taste of the beer if you underpitch.

Here is my humble suggestion for having sucess quickly in your brewing career. Select a style which has a high probability of sucess. I think that British or American pale ale, American or British Brown ale (I guess you guys would call it mild over there) and moderate strenght Porter or Stout are all good choices. Note that all these brews are ales, all are moderate strenght (about 1.050 O.G) and all have either enough malt or hop flavor (or both) to cover up small flaws. I am not saying that it is easy to make a great example of any of these styles but it is relatively easy to make a passable example of any of them.

In regards to the current batch you are dealing with, I agree with Daab, taste it. If it tastes ok, go ahead and bottle it and see what happens. If nothing else, you will get some experience bottling which should hold you in good stead for later batches. I would however caution you that if the beer tastes really sweet (and it might just because of the high O.G.) you could be making little bombs since you may have alot of unfermented sugars which could lead to very high carbonation levels in the bottles.

Finally, you wrote that you have some Diablo kits waiting to be brewed. If I am not mistaken, that is essentially a Duvel clone. I don't think that Belgian beers make good beginner styles either because most are higher gravity beers and Belgian yeasts, although ales, can be a little tricky to handle when compared to most American or British ale yeasts. The good news in all this though is that once you learn to make the basic British or American ales, all the skills acquired will serve you very well once you decide to move on to the more advances styles. Oh yeah, all those beers I mentioned all taste great as well.
Drinking:Saison (in bottles), Belgian Dubbel (in bottles), Oud Bruin (in bottles), Olde Ale (in bottles),
Abbey Triple (in bottles), Munich Helles, Best Bitter (TT Landlord clone), English IPA
Conditioning: Traditional bock bier, CAP
Fermenting: Munich Dunkel
Next up: Bitter (London Pride like), ESB
So many beers to make, so little time (and cold storage space)

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