Hello All
I am looking at my first extract brew and have the book 'Brewing beers like those you buy' by Dave Line.
He has an example for Fullers ESB to which he adds gypsum, irish moss with the LME and crystal. I understand the irish moss is for aiding the 'hot break', but do not know what the gypsum is for. Can anyone advise?
Also, he adds the second (and final) quota of hops just after switching off the boil. he does not say how long to leave the hops before removing. Is this done after the wort has cooled down regardless of whether cooled by standing or cooled using a chiller?
Please advise.
<edit>
I forgot to say I am in York so the water is pretty soft. Do I need to do anything in addition to a campdan tablet?
</edit>
Cheers
Charles
Dave Lines Fullers ESB - Why add Gypsum?
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J_P
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MacDuck
Re: Dave Lines Fullers ESB - Why add Gypsum?
Hi All
In my post I said
While at the local homebrew shop, I learnt that DME is in fact Diastatic Malt Extract... which apparantly has something that improves the gain from crystal malt if you should use it (and I assume if you add other speciality grains).
Just to confuse any other newbies about what is/when to use the DME or LME... perhaps someone could clarify further?
PS. I could not find any DME so was recommended Light Malt Extract. Would this be a good substitute for the DME?
Cheers
Charles
In my post I said
Actually, he says EDME DME which I interpreted as Dark Malt Extract. Since it was also liquid I translated it to Liquid Malt Extract.MacDuck wrote: ... the LME and crystal. I understand ...
While at the local homebrew shop, I learnt that DME is in fact Diastatic Malt Extract... which apparantly has something that improves the gain from crystal malt if you should use it (and I assume if you add other speciality grains).
Just to confuse any other newbies about what is/when to use the DME or LME... perhaps someone could clarify further?
PS. I could not find any DME so was recommended Light Malt Extract. Would this be a good substitute for the DME?
Cheers
Charles
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MacDuck
the day after
hello all
Well, it is the day after the brewday, and I have learnt a little more.
After a fun day cycling and a pint at the pub I only got to brewing around 5pm, and finished around 1.30 am
A few items/issues I learnt.
The equipment I had on hand was a fermenter with a tap, my Bruheat boile and the obligatory scales, thermometer, thingy to measure gravity (apple?) etc.
I steralised everything and then filled the fermenter with about 26-27 l and added a half a crushed campden tablet to neutralise Cl & co.
Ran 15 l of this into my boiler and brought it up to approx 65 celcius. Added the LME(1.6kg) and 320g DME - for an equivalent of 2kg DME.
Added a teaspoon of irish moss and of Gypsum. (I decided that since Yorkshire water is soft I would add this) Also in went the 150g of Crushed Crystal. Just before the water reached boil in went the 75g of Goldings hops.
David Line states the boil will kick up a scary amount of froth within 10 min of the boil. I never saw any froth of any consequence - Did I do something wrong?
Boiled for 35 min and turned off the heat before adding 10g of Goldings.
Now I have not got a chiller, and had thought I would strain the wort into my fermenter before putting it in a bath of cold water (cannot put the boiler in the bath due to the electrics on the back). This is where a problem reared its head
The fermenter still contained 11-12 l of treated water, and I have nothing else to hold this volume of treated water... So left the boiler & wort outside for a while to let it chill.
Time marches on and it is still not cool enough so I decide to add the sugar (disolved in water first) and the remaining quota of water to the boiler, empty what I can the rest of the treated water into a container and toss the rest. Then cool the fermenter in the bath.
I added the water, trying to get the gravity to 1047. Added too much and ended up with about 1045. Drained the wort into the fermenter (sieving it) and chilled the fermenter.
Just before pitching the yeast I took another gravity reading - BUGGER - 1040. I forgot about how temp affects gravity readings and also the previous measurement was unfiltered
Anyway, so have now got a Fullers ESB clone - not
Hope it turns out OK though. Will move to a secondary fermenter in 3-5 days or so and dry hop with the final 10g of Goldings.
Daab said
Lessons learnt.
1) - get a chiller
2) - if no chiller need a third fermenter to contain the treated water
3) - find some reliable way of measuring my water volumes (mark my fermenters and boiler with accurate markings.
4) - don't start brewing so late in the day.
5) - probably chill and have more than one pint while brewing.
Summary of questions
1) At what temperature should the water be when adding the malt extract?
2) The wort did not kick up a lot of froth - did I do something wrong?
3) Having added the 10g of hops to the wort that has just boiled, how long is it left before removing it / draining the wort ithrough a sieve?
Well, it is the day after the brewday, and I have learnt a little more.
After a fun day cycling and a pint at the pub I only got to brewing around 5pm, and finished around 1.30 am
A few items/issues I learnt.
The equipment I had on hand was a fermenter with a tap, my Bruheat boile and the obligatory scales, thermometer, thingy to measure gravity (apple?) etc.
I steralised everything and then filled the fermenter with about 26-27 l and added a half a crushed campden tablet to neutralise Cl & co.
Ran 15 l of this into my boiler and brought it up to approx 65 celcius. Added the LME(1.6kg) and 320g DME - for an equivalent of 2kg DME.
Added a teaspoon of irish moss and of Gypsum. (I decided that since Yorkshire water is soft I would add this) Also in went the 150g of Crushed Crystal. Just before the water reached boil in went the 75g of Goldings hops.
David Line states the boil will kick up a scary amount of froth within 10 min of the boil. I never saw any froth of any consequence - Did I do something wrong?
Boiled for 35 min and turned off the heat before adding 10g of Goldings.
Now I have not got a chiller, and had thought I would strain the wort into my fermenter before putting it in a bath of cold water (cannot put the boiler in the bath due to the electrics on the back). This is where a problem reared its head
The fermenter still contained 11-12 l of treated water, and I have nothing else to hold this volume of treated water... So left the boiler & wort outside for a while to let it chill. Time marches on and it is still not cool enough so I decide to add the sugar (disolved in water first) and the remaining quota of water to the boiler, empty what I can the rest of the treated water into a container and toss the rest. Then cool the fermenter in the bath.
I added the water, trying to get the gravity to 1047. Added too much and ended up with about 1045. Drained the wort into the fermenter (sieving it) and chilled the fermenter. Just before pitching the yeast I took another gravity reading - BUGGER - 1040. I forgot about how temp affects gravity readings and also the previous measurement was unfiltered
Anyway, so have now got a Fullers ESB clone - not
Hope it turns out OK though. Will move to a secondary fermenter in 3-5 days or so and dry hop with the final 10g of Goldings.
Daab said
Wish I had done this or diluted in the fermenter once close to the correct temp.DaaB wrote:... It doesn't hurt to be a little generous with the quantities either as I don't think the recipes account for losses to the hops and trub. ...
Lessons learnt.1) - get a chiller
2) - if no chiller need a third fermenter to contain the treated water
3) - find some reliable way of measuring my water volumes (mark my fermenters and boiler with accurate markings.
4) - don't start brewing so late in the day.
5) - probably chill and have more than one pint while brewing.
Summary of questions 1) At what temperature should the water be when adding the malt extract?
2) The wort did not kick up a lot of froth - did I do something wrong?
3) Having added the 10g of hops to the wort that has just boiled, how long is it left before removing it / draining the wort ithrough a sieve?
-
Aleman
- It's definitely Lock In Time
- Posts: 6132
- Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:56 am
- Location: Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK
Firstly the boil may or may not kick up an amazing amount of froth. If you add your hops before the wort comes to the boil then it is less likely to be really frothy (A handy tip for controlling 'foam' overs in a boiler 
)
The Dry ME can be added to cold water and stirred around to dissolve before heating as it is in fact easier to go this than adding it to hot water where it absorbs moisture rapidly and sets into a brick
. Liquid ME should be stood in a container of almost boiling water for 10 minutes, then carefully removed, and the contents mixed in with some hot/boiling water from the boiler, when it has all dissolved then pour it back to the boiler while giving a stir. Doing it this way prevents the ME from settling on the element and burning, its also easier to know if you have got it all to dissolve. Oh and turn the elements OFF while adding ME, until you know the stuff has dissolved.
When adding Late hops I generally give it 15-30 minutes to settle, then drain the wort. In fact what I do now is chill the wort to 70C then add the late hops, then continue chilling you get a better aroma extraction that way.
)The Dry ME can be added to cold water and stirred around to dissolve before heating as it is in fact easier to go this than adding it to hot water where it absorbs moisture rapidly and sets into a brick
. Liquid ME should be stood in a container of almost boiling water for 10 minutes, then carefully removed, and the contents mixed in with some hot/boiling water from the boiler, when it has all dissolved then pour it back to the boiler while giving a stir. Doing it this way prevents the ME from settling on the element and burning, its also easier to know if you have got it all to dissolve. Oh and turn the elements OFF while adding ME, until you know the stuff has dissolved.When adding Late hops I generally give it 15-30 minutes to settle, then drain the wort. In fact what I do now is chill the wort to 70C then add the late hops, then continue chilling you get a better aroma extraction that way.