Muntons Conker Ale - Stuck at 1020, options???

[Shoit]

I brewed a Muntons Conker Ale which has unfortunately stuck at 1020, it started at 1046 and has now been stuck for 2 days. I've tried rousing with now effect and have pitched some more yeast - all of which have made little difference.

Any other options or should I just keg it - it tastes fine so i don't want to ruin it? Any ideas

Kev

[Jim]

The only option I can think of is dry beer enzyme, but that's likely to make it taste dry and thin.

Have you gone through all the options on the stuck fermentation FAQ?

[Shoit]

Hi there,

I've tried all the options apart from the yeast nutrient. If i do keg it at 1020, what will the alcohol content be from a OG of 1046?

Kev

[Bongo]

Should be near 4%

[sparky Paul]

You could try yeast nutrient, it has worked for people in the past, but from what I've read the success rate is low. You have to take care that you don't add too much as it it does leave an odd taste if the yeast doesn't get to work on it.

I normally draw the line at 1016, but I reckon if you've tried everything sensible to get it down from 1020, I would risk bottling/kegging it now - especially if it tastes okay. I'd sooner put up with ½% or so less ABV than have 5 gallons of something undrinkable.

[PeteH]

Hi there,

I've tried all the options apart from the yeast nutrient. If i do keg it at 1020, what will the alcohol content be from a OG of 1046?

Kev

1046-1020/7.45=3.4899328859060402684563758389262 ish.

[Stringy Bob]

Hi there,

I've tried all the options apart from the yeast nutrient. If i do keg it at 1020, what will the alcohol content be from a OG of 1046?

Kev

1046-1020/7.45=3.4899328859060402684563758389262 ish.

Chuck it down the drain - I wouldnt drink anything under 3.4899328859060402684563758389265%

[Shoit]

It's dropping very slightly - it's at 1018. I do feel as though i need to try something other than a muntons kit. Both the ones that I've done have stuck at 1020.

Kev

[Jim]

You could try yeast nutrient, it has worked for people in the past, but from what I've read the success rate is low. You have to take care that you don't add too much as it it does least an odd taste if the yeast doesn't get to work on it.

I normally draw the line at 1016, but I reckon if you've tried everything sensible to get it down from 1020, I would risk bottling/kegging it now - especially if it tastes okay. I'd sooner put up with ½% or so less ABV than have 5 gallons of something undrinkable.

I would be reluctant to bottle a brew at 20, but I would happily keg it.

[Shoit]

What are the risks of bottling it at 1020? Will it develop a dodgy taste or just explode?

Kev

[sparky Paul]

I would be reluctant to bottle a brew at 20, but I would happily keg it.

You're right Jim, I was thinking about my own favourite MO of PET bottling. I would PET bottle it, perhaps with less priming sugar, but I certainly wouldn't dare put it in glass bottles at 1020. As you say, kegging would be safe as houses with the relief valve on the cap.

What are the risks of bottling it at 1020? Will it develop a dodgy taste or just explode?

The beer could be a little sweeter, but it would be very marginal.

The main risk is of making bottle bombs. If the fermentation did continue very slowly, and eventually got to the desired FG, the excess CO2 produced may make the glass ones go bang. PETs are safer, they don't shatter into nasty shards, and you can monitor the pressure with the 'thumb test' - and release it if you think the bottles are getting too hard before they start clearing down. Kegging would always be best, for the reasons above.

Good to hear it's dropped a little more, quite a few of my 100% extract brews finish around 1015-16, so you're not too far away.

[Shoit]

Thanks for the advice - i'll probably PET it then, unless it drops a little further. I'm a bit demoralized to be honest. I've only done 2 kits and they've both stuck at 1020.

Oh well....

Kev