Taking the OG reading
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booldawg
Taking the OG reading
I'm not 100% sure on when the best time to take the OG reading. Is it before you introduce the yeast to the wort or as soon as you've pitched it - does it make a difference? I tend to think that taking the reading once the yeast starter is pitched would make the wort denser, hence a higher OG.
I take OG before pitching. For a rehydrated yeast in 100ml of water it won't make any difference.
Example:
Suppose OG is 1.045 before pitching.
You have 23 litres, so that means mass is 23 x 1.045 = 24.035 Kg
To boost the OG to 1.046, new mass is 1.046 x 23.1 = 24.1626 Kg, which means your 100ml of rehydrated yeast has a mass of 0.1276 Kg.
Or ... your rehydrated yeast would need a density of 1.276. I reckon you'd see your yeast drop like a stone
Example:
Suppose OG is 1.045 before pitching.
You have 23 litres, so that means mass is 23 x 1.045 = 24.035 Kg
To boost the OG to 1.046, new mass is 1.046 x 23.1 = 24.1626 Kg, which means your 100ml of rehydrated yeast has a mass of 0.1276 Kg.
Or ... your rehydrated yeast would need a density of 1.276. I reckon you'd see your yeast drop like a stone
Last edited by vacant on Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I brew therefore I ... I .... forget
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Enki
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Ditch
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Neither agreeing or disagreeing but; I don't bother. OG is - to me - really just a bragging point. The beer, once served, will do what it does to the drinkers CNS. And that in proportion to their personal tolerance.
Myself? I seek a midway strength brew that tastes Great ~ to my judgement of such things.
All I've managed, lately, is 'Drinkable' stuff that lays waste to my conciousness in no time!
I'll get there. OG still won't matter a damn, once the Result suits me
Myself? I seek a midway strength brew that tastes Great ~ to my judgement of such things.
All I've managed, lately, is 'Drinkable' stuff that lays waste to my conciousness in no time!
I'll get there. OG still won't matter a damn, once the Result suits me
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Parva
I do actually measure the O.G. and F.G. but essentially Ditch is spot on. What does it matter if it's 3% or 7% alcohol? If all you want to do is get out of your skull then the supermarkets sell Vodka cheap enough nowadays or you could go ultra-cheap and but a bottle of white cider (7.5% or so) for a few quid for 3 litres.
Ultimately, you want a beer that you can drink which gives you pleasure knowing that a) You made it and b) It's better, and cheaper than you can get anywhere else!
I've had commercial beers with 5% alcohol content that tasted rancid to me, I've had commercial beers at a paltry 3.9% that tasted awesome. Taste, mouthfeel, satisfaction always come before alcohol content. I would happily give away my hydrometer if I were told I had to remove one piece of my kit simply because the actual alcohol content is the last thing on my mind when I taste a good brew.
Ultimately, you want a beer that you can drink which gives you pleasure knowing that a) You made it and b) It's better, and cheaper than you can get anywhere else!
I've had commercial beers with 5% alcohol content that tasted rancid to me, I've had commercial beers at a paltry 3.9% that tasted awesome. Taste, mouthfeel, satisfaction always come before alcohol content. I would happily give away my hydrometer if I were told I had to remove one piece of my kit simply because the actual alcohol content is the last thing on my mind when I taste a good brew.
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stevezx7r
I'm of the opinion that taking a hydro reading is "handy". Basically, I started out taking readings so I could anticipate how much alcohol I was making. Then I used it to check if fermentation had finished and now I pitch the yeast, fill the trial jar and leave the hydro floating in the wort so I can watch the fermentation process and see when it's complete (usually within 5 days).
It's also handy if your trying to reproduce something you've already made (or a clone) especially when your making from scratch as mashing/boiling/extraction rates etc can vary daily.
It's a good yard stick, though not critical in making beer.
It's also handy if your trying to reproduce something you've already made (or a clone) especially when your making from scratch as mashing/boiling/extraction rates etc can vary daily.
It's a good yard stick, though not critical in making beer.
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booldawg
Thanks for the advice, I have been taking the readings once the yeast is pitched but will change that for subsequent brews!
TBH I like to know the OG and ABV of my beers in the same way that I like to know the overall bitterness and colour. Mere facts and figures but looks good on the bottle label along with the brew name and bottling date!
TBH I like to know the OG and ABV of my beers in the same way that I like to know the overall bitterness and colour. Mere facts and figures but looks good on the bottle label along with the brew name and bottling date!