DIY All Grain Brewery

[jdt199]

OK guys, I have just put my 3rd kit in the fermenter and I want it to be the last. I have decided to bite the bullet and start getting some kit together and go All grain. In the spirit of the recession I want to keep costs down and build as much as I can myself. Could you check my shopping list and tell me if you think all parts will be sufficient and provide links to any cheaper sources if you have them.

1 - Boiler

Was just going to get a 10 gal bucket from Hop & grape http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/catalog/de ... =FER374247 and then get couple of kettles from Argos at £4.69 a piece to get the elements.
I have heard there are issues with the boiler taps so was thinking of getting a ball valve tap from B&Q/Screwfix. Does Anyone know what fittings / washers I will need to fix this to the bucket and hop strainer (made from 15mm copper pipe I guess.


2 - Mash Tun
To keep costs down was going to use an Argos 30L coolbox at £16.99 http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... OL+BOX.htm

Again I was hoping to fit a ball valve tap so any advice on building a grain bed filter out of 15mm copper pipe and connecting it to the ball valve would be appreciated.

My alternative was a Igloo Ice cube 48qt coolbox http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0079646239 at about £35 ic delivery but I don't think I need (or can afford) one this big yet what are your thoughts?

3 - CFC Chiller

I can get 10m of 8mm microfibber copper from B&Q for £25 which seems a little expensive to me. Anyone know of any other sources? I have plenty of garden hose kicking about to use so what other parts do I need to fix this up.

4 - HLT

Dont think Ill bother with this just yet. I will use the boiler and sparge into a spare FV before transfering back to the boiler at present I think.

Also do you think I should batch sparge or try fly sparging (if so where to get the equiptment)?

Let me know if you see any problems with the parts I have selected any any adivice from anyone who has built these would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[sparky Paul]

I'm going through the same process at the minute, finding bits and pieces to put together.

To keep costs down was going to use an Argos 30L coolbox at £16.99 http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/p ... OL+BOX.htm

I looked at those, but reading the customer reviews I think I'd give them a miss. They don't sound very robust, and I reckon you need to go for something sturdy if possible. If you are thinking about a 10 gallon boiler, to be able to produce 10 gallon brews of any sort strength you'll need the 45L/48QT one anyway. The Igloo cubes look great, but bear in mind there is no drain on them, making fitting the pipework a bit more work.

I can get 10m of 8mm microfibber copper from B&Q for £25 which seems a little expensive to me. Anyone know of any other sources? I have plenty of garden hose kicking about to use so what other parts do I need to fix this up.

Try plumber's merchants, or Screwfix (part of B&Q) do 25m of 8mm for the same sort of money.

[Kristoff]

Hi, Having just done this myself - infact i've just finised soldering my T piece on my mash tun manifold, so i'm right there with you..

1. Boiler - That 10 gal bucket from Hop & grape, will be great, but Get them to drill the holes. The kettle element is fine, just make sure the pins on the back of the element are long enough for the lead to plug onto. If you're not sure, then buy the £5 kettle from Wilkinsons, which is what i've got, and the pins are fine. You will need to get a 13amp kettle lead with either kettle though, as the lead with the kettle is built into the base.
infact - if you only want to do 5gal brews, get a Leyland 33l bucket, which is what I did, They drilled 2 holes for tap and element, and it was £17 delivered.

I have fitted 15mm ball valve taps to both my mash tun and boiler, go to screwfix, loads cheaper than B&Q.

Firstly buy a 2m length of 15mm copper pipe, B&Q sell these individually about £5
Pack of 15mm elbows £3.50
3x 15mm Tees, 70p ea
Get all these from B&Q, as screwfix only sell in larger packs

To make a hop strainer and tap for the boiler, you will need.
1x 15mm Ball valve £3.59 (screwfix)
1x Brass tank connector £1.50(screwfix)
3x 15mm elbows
Drill 3mm holes all over the hop strainer

For the mash tun tap and manifold
1x 15mm Ball valve
1x Brass tank connector
5x 15mm elbows
3x 15mm Tees
Cut slots in the sections of copper pipe

On both you just feed your pipe through the connector (I had to file out the shoulder to allow the pipe to go all the way through.) and fasten the tap one side, (I fitted an elbow after the tap, with a short bit of pipe to attach tubing to) and fit your hop strainer/manifold the other, I soldered some fittings, but left others loose to aid cleaning.

The argos coolbox is fine, just be careful drilling holes - get a GOOD hole saw, not a crap one like mine

Chiller - I'd go for an immersion chiller, cheaper @ £19.99 for 10m x 10mm microbore from B&Q, and easier to make.

HLT & Sparging - The only thing you need for fly sparging is something to protect the grains, when pouring water, i'm using a foil baking tray punctured with holes or a mushroom carton.

Hope that helps and good luck

[jdt199]

Cheers Kristoff, thats Exactly what I wanted... A parts list.

That 10 gal bucket from Hop & grape, will be great, but Get them to drill the holes.

Did you get a standard boiler tap with this and do they cut holes for the elements as well, if so what size? The Asda kettles are fine for kettle leads I think. I looked at one on display. I think there all the same these budget kettles. I think Ill stick with the 10 gal one for the future as it isn't much more.

1x Brass tank connector £1.50(screwfix)

I could only find a plastic John Guest fitting one at screwfix. Do you have a link?

The only thing you need for fly sparging is something to protect the grains, when pouring water, i'm using a foil baking tray punctured with holes or a mushroom carton.

I think your refering to batch sparging there by the sounds of it (allthough I'm no expert), but I think I will do what you described anyway.

Have you done your first brew yet then? if so how did it go?

Try plumber's merchants, or Screwfix (part of B&Q) do 25m of 8mm for the same sort of money.

I'm still undecided if I'm going to go counterflow or immersion yet, but If I build a CFC do I really need 25m?

Many thanks all for your help again

[wetdog]

speaking as someone who managed to drill a hole slightly too big in a 10 gallon H&G boiler I know only too well the dangers of using cheap tools. every hole I've done since I've drilled with a spade bit slightly under the required size and finished off with a half round file. I use the Argos box too, and I've added 20mm insulation all round for a bit of extra warmth. I wouldn't risk picking it up by its handle when full though so bare that in mind before you fill it with hot water. make sure you use proper kettle leads and not computer leads. you can get them at Homebase.
oh and if you're going to be making your own manifold then buy top quality saw blades. cheap ones will blunt after 1 or 2 cuts

[sparky Paul]

I could only find a plastic John Guest fitting one at screwfix. Do you have a link?

Here you go - 15mm Tank Coupler

The only thing you need for fly sparging is something to protect the grains, when pouring water, i'm using a foil baking tray punctured with holes or a mushroom carton.

I think your refering to batch sparging there by the sounds of it (allthough I'm no expert), but I think I will do what you described anyway.

That's fly sparging, the tray is to stop the sparge water disturbing the grain bed. Batch sparging is when you fill the tun back up before discharging.

Try plumber's merchants, or Screwfix (part of B&Q) do 25m of 8mm for the same sort of money.

I'm still undecided if I'm going to go counterflow or immersion yet, but If I build a CFC do I really need 25m?

10m is usually enough in 10mm, not sure about 8mm. You should be able to find 10m cheaper, that's what I was trying to show.

I have the same problem at the moment, deciding which way to go. ICs are the easiest to use, CFCs need to been cleaned thoroughly and sanitised before use, but I like the idea of being able to add a hopback after the boiler in future, and they are easiest to use with a CFC.

As for cutting pipe, you can get a cheap version of the 'handicutter' pipe cutter for a few pounds at Wilkos, you can't beat them.

[lewis1981]

when fitting a tank coupler does it have any o-rings with it to seal against the boiler or mash tun's plastic

[sparky Paul]

when fitting a tank coupler does it have any o-rings with it to seal against the boiler or mash tun's plastic

Most come with a rubber washer, but some don't. They are available as spares from most places selling plumbing gear.

[Subsonic]

Guys, as someone who has been down this route before can I just make a suggestion on the kettle elements. Be careful wiring, overide the thermal cutout (often it is hidden in the back of the element itself and shows itself as a small 'protruding pin' on the body. Open it up and remove - it usually consists of a bimetalic strip and a white kind of paste to insulate). Next, always use a plug switches. You know the ones for old farts that use electric mowers and run over the flex! Ok, Seriously. just be careful. I used kettles a lot in the past and we are talking a lot of amps. If you really want to run them well consider investing in a sustronics controller to 'control' the element. I found the electric elements 'burnt' my wort and hops and thats why I switched to propane. Before you go down the electric route, (which is not cheap lets face it - add in the electricity bill!) do consider propane. Subsonic.

[jdt199]

Cheers for the info (and link) Sparky Paul. I think I was getting confused with batch and fly sparging. I thought I had seen many posts where prople batch spargiing pourded the liquer over the grain with some foil to protect it to fill up the mash tun. To flysparge with a foil tray do you just pour the water into the tray at a slow rate? Will it manage to distribute the liquer over the grain well enough?

Will put my order into screwfix tomorrow then.

For the mash tun tap and manifold
1x 15mm Ball valve
1x Brass tank connector
5x 15mm elbows
3x 15mm Tees

Do you use compression fitting on both the ball valve and Tank connector then?

Oh and do you use solder ring fittings? I thought I would as it would save buying solder and I can use the gas cooker rather than a plumbers blowtorch. All I will need then is some flux.

Guys, as someone who has been down this route before can I just make a suggestion on the kettle elements. Be careful wiring, overide the thermal cutout (often it is hidden in the back of the element itself and shows itself as a small 'protruding pin' on the body. Open it up and remove - it usually consists of a bimetalic strip and a white kind of paste to insulate). Next, always use a plug switches. You know the ones for old farts that use electric mowers and run over the flex! Ok, Seriously. just be careful. I used kettles a lot in the past and we are talking a lot of amps. If you really want to run them well consider investing in a sustronics controller to 'control' the element. I found the electric elements 'burnt' my wort and hops and thats why I switched to propane. Before you go down the electric route, (which is not cheap lets face it - add in the electricity bill!) do consider propane

I see your point about burning the wort and hops. I think a lot of fuss is made about using kettle elemens. As long ans your carefull and know what your doing its fine. Those kettles will only draw just over 10Amps and Kettle leads I have for PC are 1.5mm cable which will happily carry 15Amps and my kitchen ring is 32A so will take two elements fine (so long as I dont do the laundry and dishwasher as well).

When Im doing all this I will try and get some pics and post them to help others. It seems to be on the increase this DIY brewery stuff!

[Kristoff]

Did you get a standard boiler tap with this and do they cut holes for the elements as well, if so what size?

I just got him to drill a 22mm hole for tank connector and a 39mm hole for the element, they fit perfectly, apart from I can't get the element to tighten up enough on the seal, so I'm going to run some silicone sealant round as well.

[sparky Paul]

Cheers for the info (and link) Sparky Paul. I think I was getting confused with batch and fly sparging. I thought I had seen many posts where prople batch spargiing pourded the liquer over the grain with some foil to protect it to fill up the mash tun. To flysparge with a foil tray do you just pour the water into the tray at a slow rate? Will it manage to distribute the liquer over the grain well enough?

It seems to work well enough, lots use this method.

Do you use compression fitting on both the ball valve and Tank connector then?

Oh and do you use solder ring fittings? I thought I would as it would save buying solder and I can use the gas cooker rather than a plumbers blowtorch. All I will need then is some flux.

There's a pic on here somewhere, showing how to put the bits together...

Here's DaaB's... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11359

I use end feed fittings, but only because they are cheaper and look tidier. Either will do, I guess.

Those kettles will only draw just over 10Amps and Kettle leads I have for PC are 1.5mm cable which will happily carry 15Amps and my kitchen ring is 32A so will take two elements fine (so long as I dont do the laundry and dishwasher as well).

Make sure that the cables you use are indeed for kettles, and not PC leads - the ones for PCs are not rated for the temperature at the pins. You can tell a 'hot condition' IEC lead by the notch in the bottom of the plug, kettle sockets have a corresponding bump.

Also make sure that you don't plug two elements into a double socket outlet, they are not rated to supply two 13A loads - IIRC, MK twin outlets are rated to 18A max. Use two completely separate socket outlets.

[jdt199]

Make sure that the cables you use are indeed for kettles, and not PC leads - the ones for PCs are not rated for the temperature at the pins. You can tell a 'hot condition' IEC lead by the notch in the bottom of the plug, kettle sockets have a corresponding bump.

Thanks for the clarification, that makes sense. I have seen a lot of posts saying that PC leads are not rated for kettles and I've been thinking "rubbish" but I diddn't realise they were taliking about the plug moulding temperature rating! And I was planning to use seperate sockets botrh on the same ring.

[Kristoff]

Solder ring fittings are good and I don't think you need flux with those, they're already in the solder, but I would say doing it on the cooker probably wouldn't be hot enough and would make a mess. My gas in the blow lamp had run out, so i borrowed the wifes chefs butane torch - worked a treat

[sparky Paul]

Surprisingly enough, you can solder pipes on a gas cooker. It is a bit hit and miss though, and it's easy to get the solder to run out of the joint, and all over the place. In any case, I would still use a flux, and even an extra dab of solder with Yorkshire fittings.