DIY All Grain Brewery

[jdt199]

I am trying to copy your design for the mashtun, is there any benefit in having the exit pipe on the manifold going over the centre of it and exiting the opposite end of the manifold to the tank connector. I was thing of connecting straight from the T Piece straight out through the side of the coolbox if that makes sense. On your design doesnt the filtered mash have to travel "uphill" slightly before exit ???

see
http://www.18000feet.com/coolbox/cool_box_mash_tun.htm

Also I know I already asked this but does it matter if I use 22mm or 15 mm for the manifold, At present I am going for 15mm

The problem with fitting the exit pipe at the base of the coolbox it that you won't be able to fit the tank connector in as it will foul the bottom of the coolbox and also when you drill the larhe hole through the outer skin you will run into trouble. Where the exit hole is is irrevanat if you use siphon tubing from the ball valve as the siphon effect will draw all the wort out leaving about half a litre dead space for me.

With regards to 22mm or 15mm tube use 22 if you can but I used 15mm and with the slots I cut (see pics) I have had no trouble with stuck sparges whatsoever. If you use 22mm oyu will have to use a 22 -15mm reducer or a 22mm ball valve

[brewmasterflex]

Awesome advice as always thanks guys

[brewmasterflex]

Sorry to be a nuisance I just thought of something else:-----

Is it worth fitting a probe thermometer to the mashtun, Just so I can keep an eye on the temperature during the MASH or am I being a bit over zealous. I guess its all trial an error, but I was concerned with the mash losing too much temperature

[Parva]

Nah, that's overkill. I aim for a mash-in of 68c in my H&G Thermos mash tun, put the lid on and usually chuck a cushion onto the lid as it's the only uninsulated part of the coolbox and stir after an hour and check and leave for the last 30 minutes. The temperature has invariably only dropped by 1c. Provided it's well insulated, don't worry about it.

[brewmasterflex]

HELP HELP HELP HELP

I got my Cooler boxes delivered today they are the Camping Gaz ones . One slight problem I am concerned about before I drill the holes for the tank connection, Following down from the top of the cool box where the handles are the inside of the box is curved slightly , Hopefully you can see this on the picture below

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Now based on your design I am copying and others I have seen Does it matter if the exit of the maniford through the tank connector is off centre??? I am concern that it may leak as the inside of the service is curved slightly.

Can I got over to the side slightly does this matter:-

AS I figure it I could make something like: Opt1: - note the amazing photoshop skills :

CFC_Cooler_opt1.jpg (48.82 KiB) Viewed 3785 times

This is where I propose to bend the pipe across from the centre.

or can I option 2 : - just move the back T Piece across to the right slightly and then exit straight out

CFC_Cooler_opt2.jpg (48.79 KiB) Viewed 3783 times

The Other option is to exit out of the front of the coolbox ?????? any ideas, what might work best.

[Talisman]

shouldnt make any difference at all, doesnt matter where it exits the cooler box as your still sucking from the bottom of the cooler box

[thesmasheddemijohn]

Picture 1 looks good to me

[scollist]

Hi

I have just gone all grain and made all my own gear.
I used the same coolbox as you and went with the outlet on the front flat surface.
If you need to see a picture then let me know.

Cheers

Steve

[brewmasterflex]

Hi Steve

I did think of that, how does it work -- ok??

I might do that instead then, If you do have a picture can you post one please so I can visualise it, Cheers

[scollist]

Hi
Yes it worked great. 0.3L left in mash tun if you used a pipe on exit to create syphon effect.
I will post a picture later as I'm in work at the moment.

But basically looking down into the coolbox with the front towards you I have 4 horizontal 15mm pipes with slots.
The tap connects to the pipe towards the rear. I didn't bother slotting the short legs between the T's and elbows.

I have drawn a picture to illustrate. The green pipe is the one that goes through the tank connector to the tap.

Hope this helps.



Cheers

Steve

[brewmasterflex]

That looks awesome, Think I will copy it cant wait to see the picture

[rodneybellmont]

You dont want to do that you want to do this !!!!!!!!!!!

[mdex]

So here we go!

Picked up 2 Asda kettles and ordered a 10gallon bucket from hop and grape requesting the holes are pre drilled (do they usually charge more for this?).

Will only be doing 5gallon brews so will be modifying one of my FV's to use as a mash tun.

Need to have a word with my dad (Gas central heating engineer) to source the required copper pipe, fitting, ball valve tap and brass tank connectors.

Now to find an easy AG recipe for my first brew....

[scollist]

Here is the picture I promised.
Sorry it is a bit late.

Camping gaz 30L coolbox with outlet at front.

Cheers

Steve

[brewmasterflex]

Thanks for you help I tried to make it that way but found it was awkward to get the manifold out of the bottom So I have put the pipes vertical instead of horizontal, Seems to work Fine I have made 2 brews with it so far, and its awesome I Have to say

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