Help

[blankfrank]

I racked 2 brews into clean FV's last night after 4 days initial fermentation (all going very well). I bought 2 new bins fitted taps (no probs) and drilled for airlock bungs (a little bit oversized therefore not that snug a fit air can obviously escape around the bung and not through the air lock). Beer hasn't done much overnight and I've not got airlock activity to indicate how things are going.

I can check with hydrometer in next couple of days and bottle/stir etc, lids are secure and other than air lock seals not being a snug fit little opportunity to bacteria to get at the beer. Do I leave it as it is or rack it back into original FV's where I can get fully air tight?

Comments/help appreciated!

[brewin_bear]

Don't think it really needs to be airtight at all. The beer is protected by a layer of CO2. Many people (myself included) have brewed simply leaving the clip on lids partly unclipped (for 2 weeks) and these work fine. I've also got a couple of FVs with airlocks, but I don't grease these to make a seal or anything, and again all has been fine so far.

Don't worry

[Flibblebot]

Not only does the CO2 produce a protective blanket, because the yeast is constantly producing CO2, the FV will be under slightly positive pressure - i.e. the pressure inside the FV is slightly higher than the surrounding atmosphere.

This makes the chances of any bugs getting inside quite slim, as they'd be moving against the pressure differential (think trying to walk in a force 10 gale ) and then have to get through the anaerobic layer of CO2.

[blankfrank]

Thanks for advise on positive presure; there is still some displacement of water in the airlock (positive pressure), just not enough pressure to shift it! Didn't know about CO2 production though

[Barm]

wouldn't worry about it; it's quite normal for there to be less activity/CO2 in the 'secondary fermentation' phase. In the 'primary' phase, the yeasties go for the 'simple' sugars first - they're easy and quick to break down, hence the huge foaming head that happens in the first couple of days. After that, only the more 'complex' sugars are left - these are a lot slower to break down; and allied with the fact that you just threw most of the yeast colony away by racking the beer off, the activity is bound to be a lot slower.
So fret not; just leave it alone for 7-10 days or so, then check gravity.

[blankfrank]

Thanks I'll just leave alone now

There is a layer of yeast forming on the bottom of the FV's so it is going but slowly. I racked off to minimise chances of yeast bite spoiling the flavour of the beer as I was advised it was good practice. Would I just be better off not racking checking gravity after 10 days and then bottling or rack off the beer after say 3 days and scoop a couple of teaspoons on the yeast from the original FV into the racked wort?

[Barm]

don't really see what advantage that approach would give you, mate.
To be honest - I would not worry about yeast-bite; the main cause of this is actually high temperatures: firstly pitching yeast whilst the wort is too hot, and then fermenting in too warm a place. At normal temperatures it takes a LONG time (ie many weeks - not just a few days) for autolysis/yeast-bite to be a big problem.
Many people don't bother racking into SV at all - and just stay in the PV for about 10 days, then go directly to keg. The main reasons I rack to SV are: a)I found the beer clears a bit quicker by racking to SV; b) I like to dry-hop, the SV is a convenient way to do this; c) it gives me flexibility in when I transfer to keg - I have found no problem with keeping beer in the SV under airlock for 5 weeks before kegging.
Here's what I do:
1. Pitch yeast at no more than about 25degC wort temperature
2. Primary ferment (the mad foamy stage) for 2-4 days (depends on temperature and other things) - until the foam has subsided, and you can see the surface of the liquid again.
3. At that point (ie when everything's calmed down, and the foam's gone), I usually rack into SV and fit airlock. There's no point and no need in spooning yeast into the SV - since there will be LOADS of yeast in suspension (ie beer is very cloudy) - plenty to get the secondary ferment going. This is also a convenient time to dry-hop, if you want to.
4. Then Leave It Alone - just keeping an eye on the temperature (cooler better than warmer - but not below about 17degC). Usually leave mine for 10-14days; but occasionally up to 5-6 weeks when time for brewing activities is short due to other stuff (ie combination of work, SWMBO, the herbs!).
5. Check gravity; when happy that FG is reached and stable, transfer to primed keg/bottles.

Hope that helps.

[brysie]

barms on it there.

ive had no end of sleepless nights worrying why theres no bubbles coming out of the airlock, but i havnt[fingers crossed] had a bad kit yet.
ive stopped using my pressure barrel to brew in any more and brew in ordinary fermentation buckets with clingfilm over the top under a
loose lid.[then i can have a peek without worrying about any nasties getting in and any excess gas can escape] then after a week or so rack
over to the barrel for bottling. check the sg a couple of times and if its a bit high it can sit in the barrel for a few days if needs be..

[blankfrank]

Thanks for advice.

I've done everything pretty well as your suggestions what does help is reassurance to leave alone once racked into the SV. I did quite a lot of research before starting my first kits as manufacturer's instructions IMO are quite poor in that they simplify or omit good practice and often under estimate time scales. I'm still learning loads after kit number 6; which if read in the context of manufacturer's instructions is adding water and yeast to the content of their tins!

Kit brewing as I see it is all about process, doing the right thing at the right time under the right conditions with certain additional ingredients (brewer's sugar/DSM etc). Would I be cynical to suggest that some instructions still claim that quality beer can be brewed within 3-4 weeks with nothing more than their product, a bucket and 2lb of T&L?

[brysie]

spot on there frankie boy.

however replacing the sugar with equal quantities of dsm improves things no end, and the longer you can leave the finished brew the better.
one exception is the ditch-coopers stout. made with dsm you can almost drink it straight from the fv.
and the two can woodefords wherry kit is well worth the 14.99 wilkys are charging at the moment.