Todays Brew

Get advice on making beer from raw ingredients (malt, hops, water and yeast)
Scooby

Post by Scooby » Sat Nov 11, 2006 10:34 pm

Hi DRB, It's the 17L @ 1.034 before the boil that is important, that is what gives you your mash efficiency of 75.5%

You can't lose wort in the boil :!: only water evaporating as steam. the volume of the wort decreases but the SG goes up.

10L @ 1.050 = 64.8% still a very respectable efficiency :)

You did lose 10.7% in the hops in the boiler though, I boil a kettle and gently sprinkle the water on to the hops to get the last bit of sweet wort into the fermenter, you do have to be carefull as you don't want to extract any off flavours :!:

You beat me to it, just seen you last post DRB. #-o

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:01 pm

Oops this has got confusing...

Scoob is talking specifically about mash efficiency based on DRB's figures whereas I am being a bit lazy and talking about overall brewery efficiency based on Garth's figures...

I like to know my overall brewery efficiency 8)

Scooby

Post by Scooby » Sat Nov 11, 2006 11:49 pm

Horses for courses really eskimobob, both are relevant I like to take a SG from wort before the boil, (to work out mash eff') because I can identify and probs like bad batch of grain, something drastically wrong with my process etc and adjust my hop schedule, boil time or final vol before it is to late, you can also check inefficencies in hop sparge if you know what the SG was before and after.

IMO it is good practice to take a SG reading of the wort before the boil, it only takes a few seconds and armed with that and the OG reading you can work out mash and brewhouse %age simply.

BTW I was talking about both mash and brewhouse efficency.

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sun Nov 12, 2006 9:52 am

Scooby wrote:Horses for courses really eskimobob, both are relevant I like to take a SG from wort before the boil, (to work out mash eff') because I can identify and probs like bad batch of grain, something drastically wrong with my process etc and adjust my hop schedule, boil time or final vol before it is to late, you can also check inefficencies in hop sparge if you know what the SG was before and after.
Sure, I was not being derogatory 8)
Scooby wrote:IMO it is good practice to take a SG reading of the wort before the boil, it only takes a few seconds and armed with that and the OG reading you can work out mash and brewhouse %age simply.
Presumably you have a refractometer? I don't yet and can't be bothered cooling the sample so I can take a hydrometer reading...
Scooby wrote:BTW I was talking about both mash and brewhouse efficency.
Ah, I got confused by a quick read through your workings. I now see where the confusion is; I looks like you have had a bit of finger trouble or numerical dyslexia :?:
Scooby wrote:12 x 42 = 504/717 x 100 = 70.3%
I think you have changed 771 to 717. If we put 771 into the equation then it becomes:

12 x 42 = 504/771 x 100 = 65.4%

Which I would agree with as the overall brewery efficiency... :roll: :D
Do you agree Scooby?

Scooby

Post by Scooby » Sun Nov 12, 2006 10:24 am

I got confused by a quick read through your workings. I now see where the confusion is; I looks like you have had a bit of finger trouble or numerical dyslexia
More than likely a bit of both plus a couple of beers, a bottle of wine with our meal and a glass of 12yr old Caol ila :D

I looks like you have had a bit of finger trouble
as well :lol:

I agree 75.5% mash efficiency and a overall efficiency of 65.4%
Presumably you have a refractometer?
No, I use a Hydrometer conversion table, there are loads on the web and most HB books have one.

PieOPah

Post by PieOPah » Sun Nov 12, 2006 10:29 am

Scooby wrote:
Presumably you have a refractometer?
No, I use a Hydrometer conversion table, there are loads on the web and most HB books have one.
Basically, take the temperature of your Wort and then take a hydrometer reading. You then use a look up table (or beer software) to adjust the reading based on the temp.

Beersmith has a free 30 day trial and has a temp adjust
Promash has a timeless trial but certain features disabled (I think) but is more complicated to use.

Both have an adjustment calc with them. The reading isn't as accurate as it would be at your calibrated temp (20C usually) but close enough.....

DRB

Post by DRB » Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:14 am

Tried to take a photos not great, but hey better than nothing :D

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

This is how it looks doIneed to skim the dark stuff,or can I just leave it.

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Garth
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Location: Durham

Post by Garth » Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:19 am

nice piccies DRB, I'm suprised you managed to get one of the boil, when I tried my lens steamed up straightaway.

DRB

Post by DRB » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:20 pm

A picture of the brew bottled today,tastes nice,got a slight sweetness to it.[img][img]http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l276/ ... eer009.jpg[/img][/img]

DRB

Post by DRB » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:45 pm

I thought the yellow tops would compliment the dark liqour :lol: .

DRB

Post by DRB » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:03 pm

Well after about 4 weeks waiting for it to carbonate it's still not as I would like it,so i've put it somewhere cooler now.No head when I pour it,how come as it's got loads of flaked barley it?Taste wise it tastes nice.

Orfy

Post by Orfy » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:45 pm

Can't see the image :(

DRB

Post by DRB » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:52 pm

Orfy I didn't put a piccie up the one you're on about is the 26 nov,and that was a piccie of it bottled :lol: Funny how I manged to post on the same date 26 a month later. :shock:

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