woodford wherry microbrewery gone wrong?

[redskinweasel]

Cheers Brysie,

I'll check that out. Being new to this, I hadn't realised the importance of maintaining a steady temp.

Ah well live and learn, it's all gravy anyways......


I am keen to get the temperature spot on for my next one which will be a coopers bitter. Not sure whether to do it with brewing sugar or malt extract though? what's the difference flavourwise and what would you recommend?

[batemans fan]

If you're going to stick with the King-Keg, you might want to get an S30 valve and CO² cylinder instead of using the disposable bulbs. A short (1 second) blast should give a 'flat' barrel enough pressure for a few pints to be poured. The cylinders are expensive on first purchase (about £15 to £20) - but you're paying for the cylinder as well as the gas - take the empty cylinder back to the shop and a replacement will cost about £4 or £5. The cylinder will last for ages (several barrel loads) too. A lot easier and cheaper than the disposable bulbs.

My experience with King-Kegs has been a love-hate affair. When they work, they're wonderful. My problem with them is that I don't always get a good seal on the lid and have trouble maintaining enough pressure to let the beer flow. I've taken advice from another poster and used PTFE around the barrel thread (as well as Vaseline on the O ring) on my last batch - so far, so good! With a good seal and conditioning, a King-Keg doesn't require much additional gas - mainly towards the end of the barrel.

Bear in mind that the beer will absorb more of the gas the colder it is - so cold storage can result in a drop in pressure (but the beer should still have that fizzy feel).

[redskinweasel]

Cheers Batemans fan,

That S30 valve and CO2 cylinder sounds like a much better idea!

Although I do have to say that I think it is more likely that the reason the beer is not flowing is because of something I've done wrong and not the keg itself. Dunno how much of a difference this makes, but the temp was not constant during fermentation (may have dropped below 18deg) and I fear fermentation may have stopped prematurely without me knowing as I never checked inside the keg.

Because I am a complete novice at brewing I blindly followed some web instructions which basically didn't mention anything about checking on the brew at all or taking a hydrometer reading.

Content deleted in accordance with forum rules.

So here it is, I didn't take a hydrometer reading at the start and haven't taken one since (it's 4 weeks old today and cloudy with yeast in suspension).

It has now reached the point where I think I need to do something. I had a post earlier from Chris suggesting a stuck fermentation so I might try that Dry beer enzyme thing if it's not too late?

Do you or anyone else know what the cut-off is for doing that?
Can I just do that in the keg the beer is in now?

Also, should I take a sample from the keg and do a hydrometer reading before I start any of this or is there no point?
Oh yeah - forgot to mention, took a sample the other day and it smells like beer and tastes like beer (albeit a little sweet for me) dunno if that makes a difference?


Also the instructions for re-strating fermentation say -
Ensure temp is over 18deg
Rouse yeast - does this mean shake the keg?
Add dry beer enzyme and wait until fermentation is over - I guess that means I'll have to take the top off the keg and have a look right? If not, how do I know - can I tell by the final hydrometer reading and if so what should that be?
None of that info came with the kit, and I also suspiciously noticed that the place I got it from now do a much more comprehensive beginners kit in that range now with a hydrometer etc.




Sorry for all the questions, but I really don't want to have to throw 40pints down the drain.


Cheers

[mickhew]

Couple of points..
1. Take a hydrometer reading now. If it is 1014-1016 it has probably finished fermenting, adding dry beer enzyme might make things worse ( a really dry beer, that is higher in alcohol yes, but wont help with yeasty bits and cloudiness)
. If it smells and tastes like beer you have won half the battle. I have no experience in the "all in one " method, so not sure what you can do next.
2. DON'T rush out and buy a King Keg. If the keg you already have, is one of the plain white Youngs/budget barrells, these are FINE and used by many on this site, including me, use what you already have, get the technique right first. You can buy a Co2 style cap for these if you need it, by my Coopers Bitter didn't need any additional Co2.
Doesn't answer all your points but may help a little.
Follow the link I sent previously, buy a bucket with tap, use the barrell you already have. If you find that barrell is no good ( I doubt you will) upgrade later. BTW Do the Coopers Bitter with 1kg of medium spraymalt, use the kit supplied yeast ( they are supposed to be quite reliable)

[OldSpeckledBadger]

You might have a stuck fermentation or your keg might not be totally air tight so you're losing pressure. You'll need a hydrometer to check which it is. ATM I wouldn't worry too much about the cloudiness as it will clear in time once you've tracked down the main problem.

[batemans fan]

...2. DON'T rush out and buy a King Keg...

I forgot that the Wherry microbrewery kit now comes with a budget barrel and not the King-Keg
I think that the S30 valve should fit the budget barrel lid - anybody know?

[redskinweasel]

Hey,

Thanks everyone for the quick response, there's some really useful info there for me to work with.

I'll take a sample and a hydrometer reading later tonight and post the results.

Re the keg I have it's a King Keg top tap - The beginners homebrew kit came with woodfordes wherry tins, yeast, sanitiser and the keg and that's it. The keg may be leaking as when I've taken samples to date it seems to eat CO2 bulbs for breakfast and only fart a small amount of beer out in return, but the jury's out until I've taken the reading I guess.

If I can get my digi camera working, I'll see if I can post a pick of what it looks like at the mo.


Cheers for all your help!

[mickhew]

Yes there is a cap available with an S30 valve. I bought one recently in error, and flogged it on Ebay for £6.
ALSO, grease the barrell caps with Vaseline before fitting, ensures a good seal.
Cheers.

[redskinweasel]

Hey Mickhew,

Just did hydrometer reading as discussed, however it came out at 1020. What should I do now?

Do you think I'm best going for the dry beer enzyme, coz otherwise it's down the drain time.

My only concern with the dry beer enzyme is that the beer has now been in the keg for 4 weeks and I've read somewhere that the yeast begins to break down after that amount of time, which can ruin the beer.

Saying that at 60p a shot, the enzyme might be worth a try......

Any advice you could give regarding saving my beer would be greatly appreciated!


Cheers

[Lillywhite]

I think that the S30 valve should fit the budget barrel lid - anybody know?

Yes, available here.

http://www.beer-kits.co.uk/showcart.asp

[OldSpeckledBadger]

Just did hydrometer reading as discussed, however it came out at 1020. What should I do now?

Do you think I'm best going for the dry beer enzyme, coz otherwise it's down the drain time.

My only concern with the dry beer enzyme is that the beer has now been in the keg for 4 weeks and I've read somewhere that the yeast begins to break down after that amount of time, which can ruin the beer.

Saying that at 60p a shot, the enzyme might be worth a try......

Any advice you could give regarding saving my beer would be greatly appreciated!


Cheers

I'd be inclined to try beer enzyme and if that fails re-pitch with fresh yeast.

[batemans fan]

I'd be inclined to go with the enzyme too. The end result won't really be a wherry but imho, it'll be better than drinking syrup or pouring it down the drain. Remember that progress will be slow after adding the enzyme - probably about two weeks to get to FG - which in my experience will be about 1002. Conditioning/clearing will be slower too.

[brysie]

hi all

i cant help thinking that after its been sitting on dead yeast for so long it might be a bit late for adding enzyme.
wouldnt it be better to rack off to another vessel and add fresh yeast?

[batemans fan]

redskinweasel will need to get a FV before he can rack it off. My experience with sticking Muntons is that only the enzyme worked. But yeah, it might be a good thing to get it off that yeast cake and introduce some fresh. But by my reckoning, it's only been about 4½ weeks - do you think that's too long?

[redskinweasel]

Cheers for responses,

I now have an FV so could syphon the beer in to there if that is the best option. It is 4 weeks and 2 days today since I made the brew so I'm just wonderin whether to:

1-Add beer enzyme to keg and leave to see what happens
2-Shift to FV 1st then add the enzyme

or

3-Shift to FV and add fresh yeast


Not really sure which way to go with this one as I've left the beer for so long now. I am putting in an order this morning for yeast, nutrient and enzyme anyway, can eanyone recommend a good yeast?

I have been looking at safeale 04 or 05 (whats the difference?), muntons premium gold, safebrew s33, youngs ale yeast.....


Also is yeast vit just the same as youngs yeast nutrient?





Cheers