Some Beginner Questions

[lollypopp]

Have a look at Chris' site, you might find this helpful? http://www.18000feet.com/how/H2HB2.htm

[OldSpeckledBadger]

I perhaps foolishly went ahead and ordered the barrel with valve as I assumed said valve was for releaseing C02, but it seems it's for attaching canisters to carbonate the beer.

It does both. The brass bit is to inject extra CO2 and below the thread there'll be a tube of rubber which is the pressure release valve.

Do I absolutely need a bin or barrel with an airlock for either stage of the fermentation, or will just placing the lid loosely onto the bin be OK with this kit?

There's no real need for an airlock. If the lid has a hole in it to accept an airlock then just pit something over it to stop things falling in.

Secondly, how long is it OK to leave the beer in the barrel for before drinking?

Months and months. The beer will keep for ages as long as you keep the air out. Most of us actually have the opposite problem. We find it gets drunk very quickly

Lastly, should I just stop bloody worrying and get on with it?

Sounds like a good plan

[Grantie]

The best reason for using an airlock is you can monitor the fermentation progress, I dont take any hydrometer readings until the airlock stops bubbling, then I take another 24 hours later to make absolutely sure it's finished then bottle it (if the gravity is low enough).

It also keeps nasty bugs out if that's likely to be a problem (shed and garage home-brewers) lots of people who brew in the house just crack the lid open a bit and they have good results, or they drape a damp tea towel over the top of the bucket.

And yes, don't worry get stuck in and you'll be an expert in no time !

[mickhew]

Sound like a similar kit to the one I bought. for your next brew (and there will be one, it's addictive) buy a drum tap, and fit it to your bucket, MUCH easier than syphoning (see below). Also, the brass valve comes in 2 different styles, one with a small inner pin, for use with Co2 bulbs (little chrome ones), and one without the pin, for use with "Hambleton Bard" cannisters. google search on these will help. USE VASELINE on the tap, and cap seal so they seal correctly too. Cheers

[John-H]

nice 1 mickhew...good pic....ive a youngs fermentation bin,just like yours, but mine has no hole or slot for a tap for syphoning into final keg....do i ideally need another fermentation bin or can i just leave it in for the whole process?i too am just about to start my first brew (geordies mild) and am pretty confused too...

1.how long do i keep the wort before i start fermentation?
2.at what kind of room do i keep a)the wort b)fermentation c)maturing process (ie. warm room,cool room etc)
3.do i need any more equiptment (i have fermentation bin & plastic spoon)

also, i am planning on putting a few heaped teaspoons of treacle in with my wort to give it more colour,flavour and sweetness...do you recomend any other extra ingredients like that?

cheers,
john

[brysie]

hi john

as soon as you have made your wort, make sure the temperature is ok for the yeast you are using and whack it in asap.
most ales are ok at room temp [20 degrees ish].
i find that a fishtank sticky thermometer stuck to the outside of the fv is dead useful and a cheap hydrometer is probably a good investment too.

personally, ive found ditch`s advice to `get a few brews under your belt, then and only then can you decide if they need tinkering with` to be invaluable.
i paraphrase of course. if you dont make up a kit as per the manufacturers instructions successfully, how do you know if it needs more

colour,flavour and sweetness..

good luck

[John-H]

hi john

as soon as you have made your wort, make sure the temperature is ok for the yeast you are using and whack it in asap.
most ales are ok at room temp [20 degrees ish].
i find that a fishtank sticky thermometer stuck to the outside of the fv is dead useful and a cheap hydrometer is probably a good investment too.

personally, ive found ditch`s advice to `get a few brews under your belt, then and only then can you decide if they need tinkering with` to be invaluable.
i paraphrase of course. if you dont make up a kit as per the manufacturers instructions successfully, how do you know if it needs more

colour,flavour and sweetness..

good luck

nice 1 matey pips...20 degrees,is that the wort or the fermentation...or both?? and the hydometer...what does it measure and what kind of reading should i expect to get for a good brew?

cheers,
john

[brysie]

20 ish degrees is fine to chuck your yeast in and ferment at.
warmer means quicker fermentation but thats not always a good thing. colder means it might not start.[modern kit yeasts are forgiving].

the hydrometer tells you the relative density of your brew.this will tell you when your beer has fermented to a level that is safe for keg/bottling.
[buy one,they`re cheap]

[John-H]

nice 1 fella...goin wilkinsons anyway tomorrow so ill av a butchers.

john