Recipe required please....

Discussion on brewing beer from malt extract, hops, and yeast.
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Immy's Dad

Recipe required please....

Post by Immy's Dad » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:11 pm

Going to make a pale ale today, anyone got any ideas for what to do with the following?:

1.5 kg LME (pale)

1.5kg Spray Malt (pale)

Hops: Goldings, Fuggles and Styrian Goldings

Also have some dark Spray malt and some Crystal malt.

Any ideas chaps. I'd like a hoppy beer with a golden hue!

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:19 pm

Looks like the ingredients for a Timothy Taylor Landlord clone, have a look at some of the recent threads for a recipe or do a search!

Immy's Dad

Post by Immy's Dad » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:35 pm

Thanks for the advice!

Questions:

1. Do you think 3kg of malt is enough?

2. How much should I boil the extract and in what quantitities. (sorry, too many tits :oops: )

3. Should hop schedules be the same as an all grain brew?

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:44 pm

Aye use the whole lot for 5 gallons, that will give you an OG of 1.044 or so which is good.

For a hop schedule I would probably do something like (assuming you want to use all your hops) this but you might want to do it differently:

Fuggles 30g (60mins)
EK Goldings 30g (60mins)

That will give you IBUs of around 33 which is on the bitter side. Then for finishing it's up to you, I would go for:

EK Goldings 20g (15mins)
Styrian Goldings 30g (1min)

Of course you could use any of those hops in any combination and not go far wrong.

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:54 pm

Yeah, holding it back might cause low hop bitterness extraction, too. Styrian goldings at the end is a bit of a guess by the way, I reckon the brewery either use that or EKG in the hop back for aroma.

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:59 pm

DaaB wrote:The way i'd deal with the ingredients would be to bring 20L of liquer to 65 deg c (60-70). Add the crystal, and hold the temp in that range for 30 mins.
Whats the idea behind holding at 65ºC DaaB? I have always just added crystal and dark malts to the boiler (in a bag) raised the liquor and grains to 75ºC, removed the grains and brewed as usual from there on. I didn't think that there were any enzymes remaining in crystal or dark malts.
I am not disputing your technique btw :) I am just curious.

Immy's Dad

Post by Immy's Dad » Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:48 pm

Thanks again chaps!

Any probs with using a smaller amount of water for the boil, I'm thinking mainly having to cool such a large amount of wort would be a pita.

I have a wort chiller but havn't set it up just yet (ie connectors and pipe) so would preferably like to chill the wort by adding the remaining water.

P.S. Does crystal add any fermentables?

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:50 pm

Yep, crystal adds fermentable as well as colour and body/mouthfeel 8)

mysterio

Post by mysterio » Sun Jan 07, 2007 4:05 pm

Immy's Dad wrote:Thanks again chaps!

Any probs with using a smaller amount of water for the boil, I'm thinking mainly having to cool such a large amount of wort would be a pita.

I have a wort chiller but havn't set it up just yet (ie connectors and pipe) so would preferably like to chill the wort by adding the remaining water.

P.S. Does crystal add any fermentables?
Not really, the only real issue is kettle caramelisation but it shouldn't be a bother unless the gravity you are boiling is very high - what's your boil volume?

Crystal adds body & mouthfeel by means of unfermentable dextrins. It adds gravity, but no fermentable sugar.

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Sun Jan 07, 2007 4:15 pm

Here's a link for crystal malt. http://www.frenchandjupps.co.uk/product ... lmalt.html It may give a better understanding of its uses :)

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Post by oxford brewer » Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:38 pm

Crystal malt only gives gravity points if mashed,if steeped for 30mins or so it will give flavour,colour and body to the beer(as i am led to understand from brewing info).I usually steep these type of grain in 3-4 litres of water at 65c for 30 mins and then add to the boil.

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Post by Horden Hillbilly » Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:06 pm

I have a wort chiller but havn't set it up just yet (ie connectors and pipe) so would preferably like to chill the wort by adding the remaining water.
Bear in mind that this method of wort cooling will not force any cold break to drop out of the brew which may cause a chill haze if you chill your brew before serving it, should not affect quality of the brew though, only appearance.

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:06 pm

DaaB wrote:
tubby_shaw wrote:
DaaB wrote:The way i'd deal with the ingredients would be to bring 20L of liquer to 65 deg c (60-70). Add the crystal, and hold the temp in that range for 30 mins.
Whats the idea behind holding at 65ºC DaaB? I have always just added crystal and dark malts to the boiler (in a bag) raised the liquor and grains to 75ºC, removed the grains and brewed as usual from there on. I didn't think that there were any enzymes remaining in crystal or dark malts.
I am not disputing your technique btw :) I am just curious.
iirc holding the grains at that temp or steeping is one of Palmers methods (although he simmers in the extract) and while I don't go along with everything he says this method seems to have been adopted by a lot of homebrewers and is similar to Wheelers method although Wheeler makes no mention of removing the grains.

Line suggests something different iirc and I believe Papazian something different again.

If diastatic malt was being used I would simmer in the extract as there is a certain amount of starch in crystal which could cause haze.

I've used the same method as OB before and I reckon it's as good as any, I suggested simmering in the boiler as it uses less utensils.
I think I understand, basically use what you feel comfortable with 8)
I too remember buying diastatic malt extracts before I realised that I may as well use pale malt as mashing is mashing :roll:

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