Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Discuss making up beer kits - the simplest way to brew.
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dedken

Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by dedken » Sat Dec 26, 2009 5:50 pm

Hi all,

My first brew was a Wherry which took about 3.5 weeks to fall bright once I had bottled it. My second was a Coopers Lager which cleared within two days of bottling. My third was an adapted Edme lager with approx 0.5kg of spray dried malt and 1lb of raspberries mashed and boiled into syrup. It bottle this nearly 3 weeks ago and it has yet to clear. I haven not used finings in any of these brews.

As a general query, are the differences here in the time lag between fermentation and falling bright to do with the amount of extract used? If this is the case, should I expect AG brews to take a while to fall bright (when I get round to upgrading)?

mysterio

Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by mysterio » Sat Dec 26, 2009 6:25 pm

Your raspberry beer has probably got some pectin haze because you boiled the fruit. I believe there is an enzyme (pectinase) which clears the haze.

When talking about beer falling bright, it usually refers to the yeast dropping out of suspension. The three factors here are yeast strain, temperature, and time.

All other things equal, Safale S04 will clear quicker than Nottingham which will clear quicker than US-05. It's just the genetics. Lower temperatures, close to freezing, greatly accelerates the process.

Yes malt and hops contribute to haze through their protein and polyphenol content. The more of each you use, the more non-yeast haze you will tend to get. Although it does drop out over time, low temperatures greatly accelerate this process. Shouldn't be a problem with normal bitters etc.

All-grain beer is as clear as you want it to be, there are a few tips and tricks, but mostly it's just finings and cool temperatures.

sonicated
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Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by sonicated » Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:30 am

I've had some Wherry kits that have cleared after a few days and some that are cloudy after 8 weeks. I can only assume it's how they make the kit itself.

dedken

Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by dedken » Mon Dec 28, 2009 3:20 pm

mysterio wrote:Your raspberry beer has probably got some pectin haze because you boiled the fruit. I believe there is an enzyme (pectinase) which clears the haze.

So, will a pectin haze have a dtrimental effect on the quality of the brew (taste-wise) or is it just a visual thing? Is it something I can live with or something that should be avoided at all costs??

Manx Guy

Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by Manx Guy » Mon Dec 28, 2009 3:46 pm

Hi!

I agree with whats been said... Both Chris and Mysterio are knowledgable memebers of this forum IMHO :)

As far as the fruit beer is concerned I'll be fairly certain (based on my own fruit based brews) that the cloudyness is mostly cosmetic and due to pectin and other compounds in the finished beer that will make it appear cloudy...

If you are pateint it should clear in a couple of months, sooner if you keep it someplace cold (& dark). The upside of this is your beer will be in great condition also!

If you like the fruit beer get some Pectolayse from your local HBS for your next batch, since I've used it in my fruit based brews I get a star bright result everytime!

although it can still take a few weeks to clear...

Good Luck!

:)
Slainte!
8)

dedken

Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by dedken » Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:04 pm

Thanks for the advice guys.

If I were to get some pectolayse, how and at what point should I add it, bearing in mind that I bottle straight after primary f without racking off?

EoinMag

Re: Using full malt kits - do they take longer to fall bright?

Post by EoinMag » Tue Dec 29, 2009 11:20 am

dedken wrote:Thanks for the advice guys.

If I were to get some pectolayse, how and at what point should I add it, bearing in mind that I bottle straight after primary f without racking off?
Add it as soon as the fruit is added, although you can add it at any point, it tends to be more effective added earlier.

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