80 Litre Thermo Pot-HLT Conversion

[Scooby]

Maybe not so relevant in this situation jubby but these elements might be useful in future projects. Slightly expensive but with the range of sizes and outputs offer another option and in the case of the 4 and 4.8kw or bigger only one may be needed.

[jubby]

Maybe not so relevant in this situation jubby but these elements might be useful in future projects. Slightly expensive but with the range of sizes and outputs offer another option and in the case of the 4 and 4.8kw or bigger only one may be needed.

Interesting Scooby. Those are for the grown up's breweries like yours A 4.8kw 14" heater would be ideal for one of these pots (along with a 20 amp dedicated supply) Worth remembering for the future.
I went up to a micro brewery in Ufford a while back and he was using something along those lines in the copper: 18kw and about 4 foot long

[Scooby]

I went up to a micro brewery in Ufford a while back and he was using something along those lines in the copper: 18kw and about 4 foot long

Yes I've been to one similar, it still took a long time (compared to what we're used to) to reach temp/boil.

I normally plan ahead so waiting times not that much of an issue, but I have been considering the 4.8Kw in the HLT for when I want to get underway quickly. I had a 20amp radial installed with a 20amp dp switch with flex outlet. I have 2.5mm heat resistant flex but I think that's right on the limit with 4.8Kw and I'm not sure if there's heavier flex? it's not really practical to hard wire.

[jubby]

Yes, i normally prepare the night before, heating the HLT for the next day. I think you're right, the 2.5mm flex is near it's limit. You can get 3 phase flex at 4mm which should be ok.

[jubby]

Test day today and all went ok, but there needs to be a couple of changes if anyone is thinking of doing the same.

Cock-up No.1: The holes in the outer skin for the kettle elements must be 60mm, not 54mm as i made them. Otherwise the KM8 lock nuts wont fit through. I have edited the size in the post

Cock-up No.2: As the sight tube and tap share the same outlet from the HLT; when the tap is opened fully, the sight tube level drops significantly until the tap is closed, then it returns to a realistic level. To be honest, i had suspected that this might happen and i can't really see it being a problem because i fly sparge, so the the amount the tap needs to be opened for sparging does not affect the sight tube levels. However, if i was to build it again, i would fit a restrictor inside the sight tube at the bottom where it could not be seen. Maybe a 1/2" length of brass rod made for an interference fit inside the sight tube with a 1mm hole drilled through the center.

[leedsbrew]

Cracking work Jubby! I take it the 80L TP's don't have a tap on the side like the smaller ones?

Thanks lb. As OH said, the taps are fitted to the 70 litre, but also the 38 and 25. Not sure if there are any others.
Hope you haven't quaffed that beer yet still not ready. It's better but not to my taste........yet.

No no, it's still on the shelf lol.

[khattam]

Amazing Jubby!!

I've just built a 50 litre version using your method and I need a little help with regards to the elements. Everything is complete and assembled, the issue I have is the elements don't work when I switch them on. I'm using 2 Backer elements with old style kettle plugs. Probably being stupid here... but do I need to do something with the elements?

You can see what I have done here - http://www.kevinhattam.com/blog/?p=53

Your help is much appreciated!
Kev

[jubby]

Sorry for the delayed reply Kev, i've been away for a while.

Your pictures look great; nice job
I can't explain why your elements don't work though. If you have a multimeter, set it to measure resistance and check between live and neutral on the elements (the two round pins) and you should expect around 20 ohms.

You have probably sorted it by now; if so, what was the problem?