dedken wrote:I guess from those spec sheets that the S-04 doesn't flocculate as well? Curiously, they also tell you to rehydrate the yeast or if not to pitch dry and aerate. My LHBS proprietor is always at pains to tell me NEVER to rehydrate dry yeasts (there is a scientific reason apparently, although I haven't received his lecture on it) and in the particular case of S-04 he told me that it was never meant to be rehydrated (he knew a guy that worked at the lab, yada yada yada) not to aerate it either. All I know is that he uses said yeast, pitches dry and makes award-winning beer with it! My guess is that the rehydrate/pitch dry is a source of contention in the brewing community?bellebouche wrote: I'm guessing that if you're fermenting warmer and with the s-04 yeast you'll get a slightly different beer than the recipe intends... but still, I'll bet excellent. Look forward to your follow up!
Incidently I'm not fermenting warmer - the nearest heater to my beer is in the FV sitting next to it!. It should be around 16C in this room. Maybe I'll leave it in primary longer - have to prime and bottle before I move house on the 7th May though.
It depends on the type of dry yeast to be honest. Danstar have instructions on their packs for rehydrating their dried yeasts.
Some of them have instructions not to do it as they have sorted the yeast into little pellets with the exact nutrients in the form of stearols that the yeast needs to reproduce, hence also the no oxygenation part. If you rehydrate these yeasts that are not supposed to be rehydrated then they immediately start to reproduce with no source of food and they can get stressed and lose viability.
A lot of info is based on old school crappy dried yeasts that always needed rehydration and were also not very reliable, this has all changed now to a great extent and dried can be just as good as liquid for certain jobs.