Where do you guys normally get your elements?

[Jolum]

I've got some lovely 2.75Kw elements from The Heating Element Company.
I've also used a couple of Asda value kettle elements on a plastic HLT. And I second what's been said about the seal, they work great on a plastic tub but I wouldn't trust them on SS unless the wall thickness is at least 3mm - I tried them on a NO SS pot and the rubber washer just doesn't cut it, it's way too loose. I must admit I didn't try Steve's 'stick the whole thing on the inside' trick but TBH unless you can trust that what you're going use (seal-wise) isn't going to give during the boil I'd stick to using them in plastic - just my opinion of course

[Kev888]

Many people get along with the cheapo jug-kettle elements fine - but there is a bit of electric alteration needed with some varieties and, as has been mentioned, a bit of mechanical fiddling to adapt them. If you're uncomfortable with electricity and/or you wanted something off the shelf to screw in with the minimum of alteration/fuss (I guess you may from the original post), then Jolum's link looks good to me.

I think that this is a variant that takes an older style round plug/lead which can be expensive to buy, so possibly this may be an alternative choice - I seem to remember someone (possibly jolum himself) saying these used the more modern/common leads (but don't rely on my memory!). And while I think about it, if you do get a more modern IEC type lead for your element, make sure its a true kettle lead (i.e. rated for hot conditions and the full power) - lots of plugs/leads look similar but are only designed for stuff like computers - with a ready made element you're unlikely to be able to plug the wrong sort in but if you adapt one yourself you could be able to. JontyR and I both mentioned it recently here; earlier on in the same thread is a good detailed record by BigDave of fitting the kettle elements too.

I personally don't feel happy with the jug kettle elements in the roll of a boiler, but many people like them and its personal choice so I don't want to put you off. But to help you make a ballanced choice, also consider that as a consequence of the pleasantly low price they are built down to a budget and you'll be asking them to do considerably more than they were designed to do in the jug kettle. Naich recently had an issue with one, this thread may be of interest as it details this and is followed by posts including alternative options.

cheers
kev

[Jolum]

Many people get along with the cheapo jug-kettle elements fine - but there is a bit of electric alteration needed with some varieties and, as has been mentioned, a bit of mechanical fiddling to adapt them. If you're uncomfortable with electricity and/or you wanted something off the shelf to screw in with the minimum of alteration/fuss (I guess you may from the original post), then Jolum's link looks good to me.

I think that this is a variant that takes an older style round plug/lead which can be expensive to buy, so possibly this may be an alternative choice - I seem to remember someone (possibly jolum himself) saying these used the more modern/common leads (but don't rely on my memory!). And while I think about it, if you do get a more modern IEC type lead for your element, make sure its a true kettle lead (i.e. rated for hot conditions and the full power) - lots of plugs/leads look similar but are only designed for stuff like computers - with a ready made element you're unlikely to be able to plug the wrong sort in but if you adapt one yourself you could be able to. JontyR and I both mentioned it recently here; earlier on in the same thread is a good detailed record by BigDave of fitting the kettle elements too.

I personally don't feel happy with the jug kettle elements in the roll of a boiler, but many people like them and its personal choice so I don't want to put you off. But to help you make a ballanced choice, also consider that as a consequence of the pleasantly low price they are built down to a budget and you'll be asking them to do considerably more than they were designed to do in the jug kettle. Naich recently had an issue with one, this thread may be of interest as it details this and is followed by posts including alternative options.

cheers
kev

Can I just add that The Heating Element Company do sell the old style plug for the 2.75Kw elements but they want almost as mush as the element itself
I did sell a few to some JBK members a while back (that I found in a closing sale) and if I find some more going cheap I'll again supply them at cost + postage. As for the IEC type lead they're bloody expensive too (IMO) I think I paid ~£6 each at Homebase...bloody pirates. Still I personally think it's worth it, skimping on safety for the sake of saving a few quid just doesn't make sense to me.

[gunner]

Hi jolum,which element did you purchase,the haden or the copper immersion(what size)

Did your elements come with any washers/backnuts to help fix in place.

Would the C15 leads kev talks about fit the back of both these elements.

What size cutter did you use for the elements.I assume you used the NO pot you mentioned in an earlier post.

If you can help,much appreciated.

Graham.

[Jolum]

Hi jolum,which element did you purchase,the haden or the copper immersion(what size)

Did your elements come with any washers/backnuts to help fix in place.

Would the C15 leads kev talks about fit the back of both these elements.

What size cutter did you use for the elements.I assume you used the NO pot you mentioned in an earlier post.

If you can help,much appreciated.

Graham.

Hi Graham, I've got 4 of the the 2.75Kw standard 13 Amp type that use the 2 round and 1 flat pin (old style) lead. They come with a dodgy plastic back nut come shroud that pops off if you so much as look at it. someone on here (it may have actually been Kev) used some of these KM8 locking nuts to hold them in place. I had a some bespoke versions made for me out of SS but alas that source has gone now. I used 40mm Q-Max cutters to make the holes in the NO SS pots.

Hope that helps.

[gunner]

Thanks jolum.I have a 10G H&G boiler with similar elements but only 2.4kw,do the 2.75kw's come with a similar set up to what i already have.

H&G elements


These are the leads for the elements.


Would i need to purchase new leads or are these suitable for the 2.75kw elements.

I am looking to put 2 of these elements into a 70L NO SS,you mention 4,is that how many you have in one pot?

What type of tap and fittings did you use?
Graham.

[Naich]

I personally don't feel happy with the jug kettle elements in the roll of a boiler, but many people like them and its personal choice so I don't want to put you off.

Having seen the inside of a Tesco value element, it's obvious that longevity is not the first priority of the designers. Then we abuse them by keeping them going at full pelt for 90 minutes... it's a wonder they work at all. I think my next upgrade will be a stainless/aluminium boiler with a couple of proper elements in.

One thought - to get an element that is definitely suited for a 90 minute boil, how about buying a cheap wallpaper steamer and using the element out of that?

[Naich]

Would i need to purchase new leads or are these suitable for the 2.75kw elements.

That is the wrong sort of lead for any kettle element. It's not heat resistant and is probably rated at 5A. The heat resistant ones have a rectangular cutout at the end (as viewed in the orientation of your middle picture) and are typically constructed out of two different types of plastic. They should also be rated at least 10A for 2.4KW elements or, if you are going to use 2.75KW elements, 13A. I bought a couple of proper ones from Homebase recently.

[Kev888]

do the 2.75kw's come with a similar set up to what i already have

Hi Graham, My understanding is that the 2.75kw take the old type of plug, but the 2.4kw are like yours. Jolum enlightened me/us to that though so I'm more than happy to defer to him if I misunderstood.

As Niaich said though - the lead you're using doesn't look like the true kettle (hot condition) lead as it doesn't have the cut-out between the live and neutral pins; hopefully it is truly rated for the power (if it just had a bigger fuse fitted that would be slightly worrying) but I'd personally feel it worth getting true hot condition lead for your new element(s) if you can run to it.

Personally I wouldn't get concerned about the power ratings of the elements - there's not much difference and the lower rating would also be kinder to your circuits/plugs/sockets. It will take a little longer to heat thats all. A rolling boil shouldn't be a problem, if you're worried then adding a bit of insulation to the boiler will overcome the difference.

Cheers
kev

[Horatio]

That looks like the lead that H&G supply with the 10 gallon boiler. If it is then it is rated for the element and is suitable as a 'hot' lead. I have one and it doesn't even get slightly warm on a 90 min boil. In fact I have boiled for 3 1/2 hours with it with no problems at all. I must say though that all my other leads have the notch in them and are rated for 13 amp; don't know why the H&G ones aren't notched?

[Kev888]

That looks like the lead that H&G supply with the 10 gallon boiler. If it is then it is rated for the element and is suitable as a 'hot' lead. I have one and it doesn't even get slightly warm on a 90 min boil. In fact I have boiled for 3 1/2 hours with it with no problems at all. I must say though that all my other leads have the notch in them and are rated for 13 amp; don't know why the H&G ones aren't notched?

Interesting - I suppose its not impossible that its up to the job but it doesn't seem to be conforming to the usual standards if it is.

[Jolum]

Hi Graham, not sure about the lead you've got there as the standard kettle lead certainly does have the cut out on the moulding - the sort that costs nearly £6 to be used in a £5 kettle

As for the elements, Kev's right, the 2.4Kw use the kettle lead that looks like yours, the 2.75Kw elements use the old style round lead with the 2 round pins and 1 flat pin. Though again what Kev says about the power difference makes perfect sense. I don't think there's that much difference between 4.8Kw and 5.5Kw as during the rolling boil you'll usually turn one of the elements off anyway but to see how much time you'll gain\lose during the initial heating up of the HLT (for instance) try playing around with Andy's Water Heating Time Calculator. I think you'll be surprised at how little difference it makes.

Initial Water Temp = 10C
Final Water Temp = 80C
Volume of Water = 50L
For 4.8Kw elements the time taken = 51 minutes
For 5.5Kw elements the time taken = 45 minutes

So a saving of 6 minutes...whooopppee
Not really worth the hassle really is it

TBH the only reason I went with the 2.75Kw elements was that I was penny pinching, I think they cost ~£13 where the 2.4Kw type cost ~£18 but when you find out that the leads cost ~£13 and £6 respectively it sort of makes the saving a bit of a false economy...if I'd known that then I would have gone with the 2.4Kw (newer) type.

[gunner]

Thanks fella's,the leads i have came with the H&G boiler,so i assume they are the correct type,on the lead it says 10A 250v,haven't had any problems with them ,though the last brewday the elements had a black coating to them,not sure what that was.

So, a suitable hot condition lead is the C15.Would this be compatible with my H&G elements and the 2.4kw/2.75kw elements mentioned in this topic,can they be purchased from B&Q and the like.

Could anyone recommend a tap type that is suitable for a NO pot,and the relevant items needed to fix it to the pot.

Graham.

[Kev888]

Thats interesting, so the H&G lead is (just) rated sufficiently for the power. I guess it must be okay for heat if everyone is using them happily, perhaps the spec of this particular model is higher than the minimum required by the standards for a C13 plug.

Graham, yes I 'believe' the C15 hot condition lead would be suitable for the H&G boiler (though I don't own one so can't verify that for you) and Jolum says also the 2.4kw element linked to above. I believe people have bought them from HomeBase but they are available elsewhere - look for the cut-out and power rating before buying though. Note that the C15 plug would NOT be suitable for the 2.75kw element though as that takes the old type of plug.

To clarify:

The 2.75kw element takes an old style kettle plug:


The 2.4kw element takes a modern C15 hot condition (min rating 120 degC I think) IEC kettle plug:


Visually similar but not required to cope with more than 70degC by the standards (and so I would suggest not guaranteed to be suitable unless specified otherwise by the manufacturer) C13:


The hot-condition C15 can fit a cold condition socket, but you can't put a C13 connector in a proper hot condition socket. This is what concerns me when I see powerful, hot elements that can take either - should the lead need replacing its possible for someone to innocently use a lead thats not up to it IMHO.

Cheers
kev

[gunner]

Cheers Kev.

Graham.