Im going to do a BIAB soon, a few questions?

[jonohanson]

Once I have constructed my new 50ltr shiney, i'm going to have a BIAB session.

Now from what I understand, I fill my boiler to strike temp, add grains then mash for 90mins, then dunk, re-dunk the bag a few times, squeeze and then boil.

My question is when I 3v brew I mash with a vol. of 2.5:1 at 66 for 90mins then top up with 80degree water, empty and fill up again with 80degree water, I always thought the higher temp water was to wash the grains, in BIAB method there is no increase in water temp? Does this create any problems (i.e efficiency)?

Have I got the method wrong or is there something else you have to do? As its a 1v brewing technique you cant really mash with a set amount then heat another lot of water and add later?

Sorry if this sounds confusing.

Many Thanks

[6470zzy]

http://www.lugwrenchbrewing.com/2010/02 ... worth.html

Check out the info on this page, there are some decent links at the bottom, hope this helps you out a tad.

Cheers

[EoinMag]

Once I have constructed my new 50ltr shiney, i'm going to have a BIAB session.

Now from what I understand, I fill my boiler to strike temp, add grains then mash for 90mins, then dunk, re-dunk the bag a few times, squeeze and then boil.

My question is when I 3v brew I mash with a vol. of 2.5:1 at 66 for 90mins then top up with 80degree water, empty and fill up again with 80degree water, I always thought the higher temp water was to wash the grains, in BIAB method there is no increase in water temp? Does this create any problems (i.e efficiency)?

Have I got the method wrong or is there something else you have to do? As its a 1v brewing technique you cant really mash with a set amount then heat another lot of water and add later?

Sorry if this sounds confusing.

Many Thanks

I am consistently hitting 78% efficiency with no real mash out step. If you wish you can lift the bag out of the boiler raise the temp and then drop it back in and stir fast to mix the hotter water through the mash.

The hotter water by the way is to stop enzymatic activity and mash out.

[jonohanson]

That efficiency is quite good, so in your experience the beers turn out fine without having to raise the temp for mash out? Or is it best to raise the temp(I suppose this could be done when heating to boiling temp)? Many thanks.

[EoinMag]

That efficiency is quite good, so in your experience the beers turn out fine without having to raise the temp for mash out? Or is it best to raise the temp(I suppose this could be done when heating to boiling temp)? Many thanks.

I'd do the mashing out if I had the capability to lift the bag by way of a sky hook, presently what I do is not the best with having to hand pull the bag, and it simply makes the mashing out step too difficult to bother with. I sometimes do it by removing some water at the start and bringing it up to temp on the hob to do a sparge step of sorts.

[vacant]

I use a wire cake stand under the net to stop it touching the element. That means I can keep the bag in when the heat goes on for mash out. Stirring is required during this stage because you won't get any convection to speak of.

[jonohanson]

Its something I have wanted to try for a while but my current boiler (brupak ceramic 29ltr jobby) hardly has the capacity(having to use hlt to boil as well at the start) for a normal 3v brew let alone having grain and water in.

So as soon as I upgrade to a shiny 50ltr pot I hope to do a 3v brew and a BIAB brew in a day then pop them in the cornies for some comparrisons.

[EoinMag]

Its something I have wanted to try for a while but my current boiler (brupak ceramic 29ltr jobby) hardly has the capacity(having to use hlt to boil as well at the start) for a normal 3v brew let alone having grain and water in.

So as soon as I upgrade to a shiny 50ltr pot I hope to do a 3v brew and a BIAB brew in a day then pop them in the cornies for some comparrisons.

Proving that science can be delicious

Let us know what your opinions of the beers are side by side, that'll be an interesting one.

[Bribie]

Do you have access to 40L electric urns in the UK? I believe the Burco only goes up to 30.
In any case, to answer the post I have a sky hook - depending on where you are brewing if you can get the Mrs' permission and have an electronic stud finder or similar then an I-bolt in the ceiling can provide a good skyhook point, and if you get the nice Stainless steel one it's not too noticeable. You can always tell visitors that's where you hang the side of ham from during the winter in case Walter Gabriel come calling.

Basically my method for a 23L brew in a 40L pot is to add around 33L of water, heat to around 3 degrees hotter than the proposed mash (say 69 degrees for a 66 degree mash), fit bag, dough in quickly and pump it up and down with a paint stirrer that looks like a giant potato masher. Then I lag the pot with a sleeping bag and then a duvet and just walk away for an hour. Then I raise the bag slightly off the bottom, apply heat for five to ten minutes (I've developed a 'feeling' for how long, should really do some checks and write it down) then turn heat off, lower bag and give it another good pumping at 75 degrees or thereabouts.

Then I raise and drain, no need for the dunk and redunk method as it's quite efficient due to the runny mash. I do the mashout mainly to kill off the enzymes so the brew isn't changing at all during the draining period. seeing as there's now a dedicated BIAB thread I wouldn't mind posting a tutorial I put on another couple of forums re using an electric urn for a BIAB brew, it could be of interest to people using 40 or 50 L pots as the principles are all the same, just the heating method being an urn but would apply to immersion heaters, gas, etc as well.

[art.b]

nice ''distructions'' there bribie,

it makes things a bit clearer...