Brewing a clear BIAB

[mrrm1st]

Guys,

I have made three BIAB brews now which taste good, but they have all been really hazy. I think part of the problem is that I am ending up with too much of the break material in the fermenter after the boil and chill. I have been racking to a secondary which helps, but this time round I am considering adding some finings which I have never used before (to the secondary). I was wondering whether anyone has any particular finings recommendations for the BIAB brewer?

Also, do finings take the yeast out of suspension as well as the proteins etc? I batch prime and bottle condition, so I don't know what effect using finings would have on the ability of the yeast to conduct secondary fermentation in the bottle.

I know its the taste, not the looks which matter, but I would like to make one polished beer in my life.

Rich

[soupdragon]

Hi mrrm1st

I don't think that break material is your problem as it will settle out with the bulk of the yeast but if you feel the need to remove it try using a sheet of voile as a filter as you fill your fermenter. I find that it takes most of it out
The only finings I've used post boil is gelain. I barrel my beer so add it as I fill so can't comment how you'd use it if bottling but it does clear yeast well enough. Not so sure about taking protein out though, maybe polyclar might be of more use?

Cheers Tom

[EoinMag]

I BIAB and I don't fine at all. I tend to leave ales about three weeks in the fermenter and then cold crash a few days, I have no haze issues.

[RdeV]

Polyclar (PVPP) is simple and excellent if you're pressed for time or must have a particular and repeatable clarity result (eg. competitive brewing). I'll often transfer to a secondary vessel (usually so that I can repitch the slurry) and as it fills drop in 2 tbsp of Polyclar, D-rest, cold condition and then keg plus a few PETs. Bottle carbonation doesn't seem to be affected much, its just a little slower.
I've been using the colander/ whole hops wort filtering method for transferring from the kettle to the fermenter, it does allow quite a lot of break material through, but with the secondary and Polyclar there's no problem.

[mrrm1st]

Thanks for the advice all.

Ralph - would your process be appropriate for lagers? I should have said in my question, that I have only been brewing ales so far. I would like to do some lagers soon, but need to sort out appropriate temperature control.

The haze I have been getting is present in the beer at room temperature i.e. it doesn't seem to be a chill haze, although the haze gets worse after a few hours in the fridge. I racked my latest brew to secondary (after a week in the primary) a few days ago, and it looks like swamp water. I will try Tom's tip and filter through some viole next time I fill the fermenter. However, as Tom said, the break material does settle out pretty well in the bottom of the primary and I left most of it behind when racking to secondary, so perhaps that isn't the problem.

When I sparge the grain bag after the mash, I dunk sparge in a bucket of water at about 80C. When I have emptied the sparge water, I stick the bag in the empty bucket and pour a couple of kettle fulls of boiling water over it - might that extract something out of the grains that I don't want?

Unfortunately I don't have any facility to crash chill, but I was considering giving isinglass a shot to see if that helps. Polyclar seems a popular suggestion - is that just for avoiding chill haze, or is it a general fining agent to?

Thanks

Rich

[EoinMag]

Do you iodine test when you're brewing? If not can you try it on the next brew?

I did my lager recently with no finings, but it did take 4 months to be ready to drink.

[mrrm1st]

No I have never done an iodine test. I understand that its purpose is to test the completeness of the mash? I have historically just mashed for 90mins at about 65C and hoped for the best. Would an iodine test be worth pursuing?

[EoinMag]

It would rule out starches and hazes from a bad mash. It would demonstrate conversion, I always do one, let's you know early that it's worked.

[mrrm1st]

Thanks Eoin - I will do an iodine test next time I mash and see what it shows up.

[Bribie]

For a clear beer I've found that plenty of calcium in the mash also helps - depending on your water supply I'd chuck in a teaspoon or two of Calcium Chloride (malty beer) or Calcium Sulphate (hoppy beer) depending on recipe, and see how that goes.

[RdeV]

Hi Rich, apologies for the tardy reply. Yes, that IS my process for lagers, that's all I've brewed for months! Lagering in keg or bottle is possible too if you're pressed for space. Temperature regulation will be very helpful if you decide to start making lagers, although the faux- lagers with dried lager strains at around ale temperatures are not uncommon and well received nowadays here in Aus (eg. Bacchus Brewing commercially), but I've not tried that method myself.
As per Bribie, I'd look at your water too, make sure that mash has enough calcium. Also as per Eoin, the iodine test will identify any starch issue. A longer mash may also help if there is any residual starch (you're already doing that though), but most grists should convert well within an hour if there's sufficient calcium and there's nothing odd about your water. In the end PVPP should probably help regardless though, its almost a wonder cure!