The forum for discussing all kinds of brewing paraphernalia.
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themadhippy
- Even further under the Table
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by themadhippy » Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:10 pm
I was going to use a 13a plug - wire off a washing machine to give power to the unit but as the plug is sealed I don’t want to take a risk on getting the wiring wrong (live/neutral).
Brown (or red if its old flex) is live blue (or black) is neutral,green/yellow (or just green is earth.or buy a length of 1.5mm 3 core flex and a decent 13A plug from wilkinson/B+Q etc
I found a cheap fish tank pump wire with 3a plug. The wire is a bit thinner but will it still be ok to use
very much doubt it.
Warning: The Dutch Coffeeshops products may contain drugs. Drinks containing caffeine should be used with care and moderation
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CharlieM
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by CharlieM » Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:29 pm
themadhippy wrote:I was going to use a 13a plug - wire off a washing machine to give power to the unit but as the plug is sealed I don’t want to take a risk on getting the wiring wrong (live/neutral).
Brown (or red if its old flex) is live blue (or black) is neutral,green/yellow (or just green is earth.or buy a length of 1.5mm 3 core flex and a decent 13A plug from wilkinson/B+Q etc
You could always test it with a low safe voltage. I use a cheap (few quid) multi meter with a continuity tester function on it. Basically it beeps if there is a circuit. You could make the same thing with anything battery powered that has a simple circuit e.g. a torch.
You would connect one end to the live pin then the other to each wire in turn until it beeps. The one its connected to when it beeps is the live. If you are wiring anything mains based like this its usually a good idea to do continuity test to make sure everything is connected up correctly. That way you know its sound before connected up to the potentially dangerous voltages. It better then tripping fuses or any of the much worse outcomes.
Charlie M
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Totem
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by Totem » Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:33 pm
I ended up cutting the flex of the plug i had and attached that to a plug i stole from somewhere else! The unit is up and working now - sat in a sandwhich box, just need to make it look like now, but after the current brew!
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StrangeBrew
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by StrangeBrew » Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:35 pm
Hi Speedy
don't know off the top of my head, I'll have to check. I'll see if I still have the receipt and I'll let you know.
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SpeedyGonzales
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by SpeedyGonzales » Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:18 pm
I appreciate that...
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beermonsta
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by beermonsta » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:07 pm
gentlemen, may I introduce you to....the ATC800 + (yes....plus!!!)
it does the same as the old ATC 800 but at a lower temp (-19.9°C to 99°C)
problem solved!
http://www.forttex.com/index.php?main_p ... ucts_id=45
(PS I have both, anyone want to but an ATC 800?)

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weiht
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by weiht » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:24 am
I use the Temperature Controller STC-1000 from ebay and it seems to be just as good as the atc800, and alot cheaper as well... Have a look, only down side is the size
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Monkeybrew
- Telling everyone Your My Best Mate
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- Location: Essex
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by Monkeybrew » Sun Sep 18, 2011 9:28 pm
This post has inspired me into building my first brew fridge.
Just a quick, probably dumb question - Do you just drill holes through the side of the fridge for the heater wire and temperature sensor?
FV:
Conditioning:
AG#41 - Vienna Lager - 5.6%
AG#42 - Heritage Double Ale - 10.5%
On Tap:
AG#44 - Harvest ESB - 5.4%
AG#45 - Amarillo Gold APA - 5.2%
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Befuddler
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by Befuddler » Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:47 pm
Monkeybrew wrote:Just a quick, probably dumb question - Do you just drill holes through the side of the fridge for the heater wire and temperature sensor?
No need, just trap the wires in the door seal.
Of course, if messy solutions like that bother you, you
could drill through the side. Just make sure it's not a newer model fridge with coolant in the side panels.
"There are no strong beers, only weak men"
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Kev888
- So far gone I'm on the way back again!
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- Location: Derbyshire, UK
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by Kev888 » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:11 pm
And also mind any wiring to the thermostat/bulb/door-switch...
When I drilled mine I carefully piggled away insulation in a small area at the back until I reached the plastic inside wall (which I know wasn't the modern type with cooling in), so after making sure there was nothing to hit at the side of the plastic wall either I could then drill safely. I also took the same approach when I later cut off the top to extend it..
Cheers
Kev
Kev
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houblon
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by houblon » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:13 pm
Is it safe to say that if you've got a radiator at the back, side cooling is out? I've never had a fridge with side cooling, only a freezer.
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Kev888
- So far gone I'm on the way back again!
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- Location: Derbyshire, UK
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by Kev888 » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:57 pm
I 'think' so, and i've not seen any on the forum that have both, but it could always be the first! Hence my own cautious approach burrowing through the insulation before drilling. I saw one on a american forum or U-tube or somewhere that had a pipe running across the top, but if I remember it that model was cooled in the sides.
(You may still have stuff elsewhere if it has a freezer/ice box though..)
Cheers
Kev
Kev
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Monkeybrew
- Telling everyone Your My Best Mate
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- Location: Essex
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by Monkeybrew » Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:07 pm
Many thanks for all of the replies, and sorry to hijack your thread!!
I won a Hotpoint Future RLA34 fridge tonight on Ebay, that the seller says is in 'fully working' order for £12.50, so I am well chuffed
I just need a temp controller and a tube heater now. I am sure that I can build it safely, as I have built a few watercooled PC's in my time

FV:
Conditioning:
AG#41 - Vienna Lager - 5.6%
AG#42 - Heritage Double Ale - 10.5%
On Tap:
AG#44 - Harvest ESB - 5.4%
AG#45 - Amarillo Gold APA - 5.2%
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rimski
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by rimski » Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:02 pm
Just for info
If you are interested in the ATC800+, you can get them from the fortex website with a black box which can be mounted to the wall really nicely.
I also have an stc1000 which I prefer as its control parameters are much tighter, also this can be housed very nicely in a weatherproof box
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GW44208-GEWIS ... 1045wt_689