This is for the conversion of a 100 qt cooler but the method would apply equally to smaller coolers however reinforcing the braided hose with copper has not been found necessary with a 36 qt model, its just that I want to be damn sure the hose wont crush under the weight of the grain when I am investing 18kg of grain into the brew....Plus making the hose rigid helps stop the hose from flailing around during MT cleaning and weighs the hose down, which other wise you might have to do with a fairly heavy random all stainless steel item strapped to the hose
To start with here is the cooler showing the drain aperture.
It is possible to use a tank connector here, however I have not found this necessary. This size tubing:
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/cgi ... 29#a100729
...when fed through the hole provides a good watertight seal. Even though many would not recommend PVC to be used at mashing temperature the section used is pretty small and although it gets quite flexible as it softens it has not been a problem and there has been no tainting of the beer whatsoever.
To get the tube in situ cut a large V into the end of the tube so that you can curl it into the drain hole from outside and pull into the MT very carefully.
Once its in place you will need as short a section inside as possible, just giving enough to be able to clamp to and no more otherwise you will have too much dead space when you get to removing the last bit of wort
To get the wort to the wort bucket I use a universal hose connector, cable tied for extra certainty.
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca ... NECTOR.jpg
You may find there is an alternative for you but this works fine for me because I use standard narrow width syphon tubing with syphon tap which gives what I find is a perfect run off speed. It is possible to create a valentine arm style arrangement with the tubing simply by purchasing a T connector and another syphon tap to regulate flow and prevent the syphion effect but I have found the diameter of the narrow tubing gives its own resistance to the drain speed and i now don't use that extra precaution.
For the filter you will need
2x tap connectors 22mm x 1500mm
http://www.screwfix.com/p/wras-hose-22m ... 13mm/29515
3m of 10mm microbore tubing.
JAYMAC Worm Drive All Stainless Steel Hose Clamps, available in all sizes from http://www.supremeplumb.com. We use 3 larger ones to clamp joins and one smaller one to clamp the end of the hose right down
A small section of 15mm standard copper pipe
To get your braided hoses ready you need to cut the ends off with metal shears like these from
http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-gilbow- ... m-10/49868
Try to cut in one clean action to get a neat cut.
Then using long nose pliers grab the inner rubber tube and using your hand at the very top tease a section out through and then gradually pull it out. A tip to do this easily is to carry it out in cooler temperatures as the rubber loses its tackiness and it slides out better. Once a good amount is out you can hold the rubber and use your pliers next to the rubber to 'push' the hose off.As you push onto the hose end it widens the hose diameter making it easier to slide off. When you pull at the hose the diameter tightens so it is harder to slide out
Once you have removed the inner tubing be very careful not to stand on it or place anything heavy on top as it will kink and very difficult to get back to the regualr hole formation that makes this filter so reliable. Also watch your fingers where you have made the cut those wire ends will spike you easily! Lay out the hoses in the MT to create a good snake of coverage. You want to be able to reach the majority of the bottom area to get best mash efficiency.
then carefully man handle the microbore tubing mimicking the shape of the hose you have created. There is no need to worry about the microbore kinking - it is not going to be carrying the wort to any great degree, it is simply being used to give rigid structure to the hose and to prevent it being crushed. It also adds weight to the hose to stop it floating when the density of the grain above is higher than the contents of the hose
You will need a way of connecting the two sections of hose.
We use two hose clamps and a mini section of 15mm copper pipe
Slide these up the copper pipe to half way, then slide your first hose on from the 'end' of the filter tube.
You now need to close off the end of that filter hose. We use the long nose pliers to turn all the strands inward into the braided hose end and use a small clamp to close it off
Then push the second braided hose up the other way to meet the 15mm copper tube and clamp them in place onto the 15mm section.
Last the hose next to the drain needs clamping. Push the hose right to the wall of the cooler and screw it tight. Not too tight we are only clamping to flexible plastic tube. Its tight enough when it is secure to it. It doesn't need to be too tight because the braided hose stretches and will not pull itself away from it unless considerable force is used. Make sure not to push the 10mm microbore into the protruding PVC drain tube as this will restrict flow out of the MT.
Hey presto you have completed your MT filter.
To clean the filter. First use a hose to spray at the braided hose to dislodge most particles. Then fill the MT with water and gently stretch the filter progressively up its length. This massages the holes from smaller to bigger and any small particles are displaced off the wiring.
and it doesn't even run tomorrow 
