Yet another Thermobox mash tun

[Andy]

Here are some pics of my recent 50L thermobox -> mashtun conversion. Couldn't have been completed without the sterling help from Barneey and kinnockthecat from this here parish, thanks gents!

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B_uy0w ... E0zdnJ2RlU
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B_uy0w ... FBlcm1pNmc
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B_uy0w ... kpoNy1taGM
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B_uy0w ... 1hqRkwxZzQ

False bottom to follow and then time to brew

[Andy]

Parts list:-

50L Thermobox - catering-service-fr
1/2" three piece stainless tap - BES Part no 10397 http://www.bes.co.uk/
1/2" BSP, 90° ELBOW - BES Part No 14271 http://www.bes.co.uk/
1/2" Barrel nipple - BES Part No 14451 http://www.bes.co.uk/
SKIN FITTING SS316 1/2"BSPx60mm ASAP Supplies Part No 403523 http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/403 ... andardlngh
1/2"x1/2" stainless barb - http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca ... _Barb.html

Misc:-
1/2" SS washers x 2 between outer skin and tap.
1/2" thick washer between elbow and underside of tun (required because the skin fitting threads didn't run the full length of the fitting shaft). Washer was supplied with the skin fitting but I had to dremmel a tab off it.
Cork washer between skin fitting and tun base.
PTFE tape on all fitting joints.

Tools:-
63mm holesaw to cut access hole in tun base.
21mm qmax punch to cut hole for skin fitting in tun floor and also the access hole for the barrel nipple in the tun skirt (to use qmax here you need to dremmel away the inner part of the skirt which is formed by the base sheet).
Hacksaw to cut skin fitting shaft down to size.
Dremmel to cut a channel in tun base for the barrel fitting to pass from elbow to tun skirt.
Stanley knife to cut away foam insulation.
Multi-purpose plumbing key to tighten the skin fitting into the elbow (skin fitting has two internal lugs) BES Part 16388 although it would be doable with an old file/chisel but the tool makes it easy.

[ajclarkson]

Nice job! I've often wondered why more people dont put the bottom drain close to the edge like you have. I've seen loads of center drains, but to me it just seems like lots of extra effort channeling through the insulation to fit the pipework!

[barneey]

Multi-purpose plumbing key to tighten the skin fitting into the elbow (skin fitting has two internal lugs) BES Part 16388 although it would be doable with an old file/chisel but the tool makes it easy.

Ahhh that the plumbing thingamajig you were on about

False bottom to follow and then time to brew

Glad everything fitted in the end

[Andy]

Nice job! I've often wondered why more people dont put the bottom drain close to the edge like you have. I've seen loads of center drains, but to me it just seems like lots of extra effort channeling through the insulation to fit the pipework!

I can't claim the credit for the side drain idea I preferred it (to a centre drain) for the reason you mentioned and also it's now tippable to get that last amount of wort out

[Jim]

Very shiny!

[Kev888]

Very smart indeed; puts my bubble-wrapped affair to shame.

Cheers,
Kev

[jmc]

Very neat job.

+1 for preferring side drain.

[WishboneBrewery]

very neat & tidy

[stevetk189]

Liking the cork washer bit too (loving the rest) as I've been a bit hesitant to use the various two art epoxy type putty stuffs mentioned elsewhere with them not being definitely food grade. I guess it's also a lot more "take apartable" if/when needed than the solid set stuff.

Really nice work.

[naturals]

Long time thread resurrection (seemed easier than starting a new one!).

Anyone know what sort of holesaw will go through the bottom of a thermobox? Will something like this work or does it need to be something specifically designed for metal? I already have a Q-Max on order for the more important bits - just after something to cut through the base tidily.

[Kev888]

Q-max cutters are good but where you can't get to both sides (or where the metal is slightly too thick) then yes, something else is needed. A small grinder can work very well with care (or less care if accuracy or cosmetics aren't important), but a good holesaw is generally easier IMO.

The stainless of these thermopots is thin but quite hard. The best type for cutting this are TCT holesaws (designed for cutting metal, not the masonry kind), such as these from starrett. They are designed for the job, other types may wear out during the first hole - even Cobalt types can struggle sometimes, though they should also work in the right hands, but the cheaper type such as in the TS link certainly wouldn't be my first choice.

[naturals]

Thanks for the reply Kev. Looking at the price of those cutters (likely to be £30+ with delivery for the size I need) I think I'll give it a shot with the Dremel.

[mozza]

Thanks for the reply Kev. Looking at the price of those cutters (likely to be £30+ with delivery for the size I need) I think I'll give it a shot with the Dremel.

I took a punt on one of these and it was brilliant. Just lubricate with some wd40 and it goes through in about 10 seconds

[Kev888]

Good stuff, looks much cheaper than the starrett ones yet more or less the same kind of thing. I guess if it works as well as you say then it would be fine for occasional homebrew use